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clutch offset-'05 800 XC with ES & RER

I have not been successful in locating a clutch offset alignment tool for this sled since it has electric start. Service manual calls for pn 2870426, which works w/o RER but not with. Any recommendations are appreciated. If I mod the tool by cutting off the tabs wrapping the backside of the stationary sheave of the drive clutch, where should the bar align to? Manual shows the tool aligning to the movable sheave of the secondary. This tool works to the inner, or backside of the secondary fixed sheave. Should the fixed sheaves merely be aligned with another (not the shoulders of the sheaves but the actual faces)? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
 
Exactly. That is the tool in the manual, which is not for an electric start. Any other suggestions? I do understand the drive clutch could be pulled and ring gear removed. Don't want to if I can avoid it.
 
PS 46998 Alignment tool

The alignment tool I use is- PS 46998 for an RMK. The driven component rests on the face of the clutch not on the back side. I'm not sure if it's only for Team Clutches as it's in my RMK service manual and I have only Team secondary's on my sleds due to PERC.

Check out this website for a picture:

http://polaris.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=271&cat=3

Maybe your Polaris dealer could tell you if it's applicable to your secondary clutch or not.
 
That's the tool I need. Thanks!

Please keep in mind that the SPX/POLARIS tool have .070" to .075" of built in "kick" which is more than you want.

SLP recommends ZERO-.020" of air gap at the rear of the secondary (with Torque limiter and push arm)

and .020"-.040" of air gap (without push arms/torque arms)
 
Good information to know. I got my hands on a PS 46998 and couldn't figure out why there was such a difference between the angles of that tool and to the approximate location of my modified 2870426. Your information explains it perfectly and the different tool is much more precise.
I was checking the driven at several areas while measuring and discovered run-out to the inner sheave. Looked like maybe .030 or so without measuring. Is that common? I can't image it should be that way. Should add to the vibration factor. Outer is true. The keyway is fairly hammered as well. Ordered a keyway at least.
I like that tool link. Didn't know about it.
 
I still use the old tool from Polaris and just fugue in the diff of the with of the shiver on the newer clutch, no new tolls for me just mod the ones i have and they work the best!!!!

Please keep in mind that the SPX/POLARIS tool have .070" to .075" of built in "kick" which is more than you want.

SLP recommends ZERO-.020" of air gap at the rear of the secondary (with Torque limiter and push arm)

and .020"-.040" of air gap (without push arms/torque arms)
 
Problem is for me with the 2870426 tool, the excessive tolerances allow it to move from side-to-side on the drive sheave which changes the distance to the driven. Not good. Anyone notice run-out, or warping on their inner driven sheave? That bothers me now. Anything that places a vibration to the clutch end of this motor bothers me. I have a new balanced primary clutch just to do what I can to insure longevity.
 
Problem is for me with the 2870426 tool, the excessive tolerances allow it to move from side-to-side on the drive sheave which changes the distance to the driven. Not good. Anyone notice run-out, or warping on their inner driven sheave? That bothers me now. Anything that places a vibration to the clutch end of this motor bothers me. I have a new balanced primary clutch just to do what I can to insure longevity.

You can have the secondary balanced as well, agree on the balancing of the primary, I ran my 2002 EDGE-X 800 for over 6400 miles, no crank issues and .0025" of run-out with all those miles on it.

Alignment bars pictured below: "You gotta love it when the dealer insists you need that SPX tool but has no frigging clue that the .070-.075" is there"

TOP: POLARIS /SPX GOLD PLATED ($75.00) with that .070" -.075" of kick for TSS-04, has "LWT" engraved into it

MIDDLE: SLP tool (PARALLEL) works on BOTH ROLLER SECONDARIES (TSS-98 & TSS-04) Need to look for a .100" air gap on the narrower TSS-04

BOTTOM : OLD STYLE for the BUTTON SECONDARY
 
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Float the secondary as it will align itself, just get your center to center where it needs to be.
 
The built in kick was showing me two different angles and had my mind swimming last night. Sure glad to see that post exposing the cause. Pulled shims this morning and adjusted for the excess angle built in to the tool and I'm about .028 gap for torque at rear. I have no other torque stops installed other than stock. I am using an engine mount plate from Indy Specialties. Are additional stops recommended? One? Two? I'm not riding mountains but do enjoy allowing mass quantities of fuel to flow through the carbs.
I think the secondary issue may be a no issue. The outer sheave is fixed and true. The inner shows run-out. Seems better to align to the outer fixed to me. The inner should align itself to the belt I suppose, upon rotation. Am I wrong to assume that? Secondary balance may not be a bad idea. It would certainly identify a problem if one exists and eliminate that portion of the unbalance scheme. Any recommendations on who to use near SE WI or what to expect for cost?
 
The built in kick was showing me two different angles and had my mind swimming last night. Sure glad to see that post exposing the cause. Pulled shims this morning and adjusted for the excess angle built in to the tool and I'm about .028 gap for torque at rear. I have no other torque stops installed other than stock. I am using an engine mount plate from Indy Specialties. Are additional stops recommended? One? Two? I'm not riding mountains but do enjoy allowing mass quantities of fuel to flow through the carbs.
I think the secondary issue may be a no issue. The outer sheave is fixed and true. The inner shows run-out. Seems better to align to the outer fixed to me. The inner should align itself to the belt I suppose, upon rotation. Am I wrong to assume that? Secondary balance may not be a bad idea. It would certainly identify a problem if one exists and eliminate that portion of the unbalance scheme. Any recommendations on who to use near SE WI or what to expect for cost?

On the balancing, contact XCR1250 (on hardcoresledder.com) Don does the balancing, charges approx $30 for the primaries, located in Northern Wisc
 
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