clutch kit reduce heat? worth it?

[vdog0531]

I have 07 800r 151 and wondering if a clutch kit is worth the money and do they actually reduce the heat of the clutches?? I'm thinking about a dj's clutch kit. my sled pulls descent rpms but i want to keep the clutches a little cooler. My sled already has the r&m vent kit.

Vernon

 

[ArticDoo]

I have a couple 07's and no heating issues. Changed one original belt at 4600 km. and it gets rode hard. First thing is make sure your belt is aliened which it probably is. Second thing take your belt off and throw it in the dishwasher...when your wife or gf is not looking, soap and water works too. Take a red scotch pad and go over both the primary and secondary clutch faces. Then use acetone on a rag to clean the surface. Re-install the belt making sure the belt ribs are completely above the outside of the secondary once the belt is on and rotated. A poorly adjusted belt can make your clutch run hotter. This works for me, just my 2$.

 

[crapchaser800]

I have a couple 07's and no heating issues. Changed one original belt at 4600 km. and it gets rode hard. First thing is make sure your belt is aliened which it probably is. Second thing take your belt off and throw it in the dishwasher...when your wife or gf is not looking, soap and water works too. Take a red scotch pad and go over both the primary and secondary clutch faces. Then use acetone on a rag to clean the surface. Re-install the belt making sure the belt ribs are completely above the outside of the secondary once the belt is on and rotated. A poorly adjusted belt can make your clutch run hotter. This works for me, just my 2$.

Agreed!!! Clean up your clutches and belt and do a good belt break-in. I've long been a fan of proper break-in for belts and they have held up great for me! A lot of guys like to pull the trigger straight out of the gate, which is the worse thing you can do. Sweet, I just added my .02$ too, hope it helped!!

 

[BackCountryBob]

My clutch runs warm to the touch with a D^J kit--if you're into more performance, spend the bucks. It also ran warm to the touch without the kit, 3X the above posts.

BCB

 

[vdog0531]

my clutches get scotch brited at least every other ride and my belts get properly broken in. i wouldn't say my sled has a belt problem, i'm on my third one with 850 mountain miles and only one of those was grenaded, the second one was just getting burned up so i replaced it. I'm a 235 pound rider who likes to ride in the mountains and i wanna get a little extra performance but also wanna keep my clutches at cool as possible and i read good things about dj's clutch kit but really wonder if it's totally worth it or not. sometimes people wanna believe that a mod made a world of difference because they just spent money but in actuality, it made minimall difference. i dont mind dropping the coin for a descent clutch kit but i also am not one to throw money away if it doesn't do what it's suppose to do

Vernon

 

[Crasher]

I didn't even take the plastic cover off the belt guard. 1200 miles on the last belt. I use them hard too. Yes, it gets hot but all clutches get hot when they are used hard. Not worth the $$ for me. Other opinions will differ. So you will have to decide for yourself.

 

[Original Tetonice]

Best clutch kit for the XP is the "Supertorquer HeelClicker" hands down.

OT

 

[Dartos]

I thought th new SuperTorquer Center Roller Arm was supposed to be even better than the original heel clicker from SuperTorqer?

 

[deaner]

I was blowing belts in my 07 too until I floated my secondary. After that, put 500 miles on and the belt still looked like new. No belt dust anywhere. Just make sure your spring tower cap, bushings, and roller are in good shape.

 

[SHERMAN]

Throw a team clutch on there. little over 1000 miles on it no probs. IMO

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

I have 07 800r 151 and wondering if a clutch kit is worth the money and do they actually reduce the heat of the clutches?? I'm thinking about a dj's clutch kit. my sled pulls descent rpms but i want to keep the clutches a little cooler. My sled already has the r&m vent kit.

Vernon

The #1 cause of system heat is fluctuating rpms.
Over rev at w.o.t. causes system heat to raise. Under rev at w.o.t. causes system heat to raise. Both events the upshift is stalled, the belt is fixed in a small range on the sheaves or continues to move back to a certain range on the clutch "stalled upshift". Temperature increases.

Usually my kits work quite well once flyweight is dialled in and observe that reduced fluctuating "feature" so temps should be lower.
If my kit fluctuates after you've observed a time span of good rpms, then consider to look at something wrong with the system wear parts, engine management, fuel delivery or aftermarket quick clickers (complete shaft) that are not true cam shape like they should be.

The #2 cause of system heat (even when rpms don't fluctuate) is too large of helix angle. The belt slip in the secondary and you are maintaining whatever shift with proper rpms by virtue of excessive slip in the secondary. Sheave temps will raise after repeated pulls.

Tuners here have excellent advice of keeping clutches clean every other ride or so. This contributes to "repeatability" because the clean clutch system will have it's wear components deteriorate slowly over time.
Any flavor-of-the-week regarding clutch components or clutch kits or home brew will operate well and reveal low temps if the calibration offers least/little rpm fluctuation and the tuner keeps the system clean/dry, free from lubrication.

 

[Original Tetonice]

I thought th new SuperTorquer Center Roller Arm was supposed to be even better than the original heel clicker from SuperTorqer?

Im refering to the Supertorquer CRA.

Joe, riding constant deep powder and the load associated with the deep snow condition will also contibute to clutch heat even when the clutching is perfectly tuned. Heat can be mitigated by adding correct vents which assist in displacing heat.

Are cool clutches possible while riding deep deep snow ? NO

Doo, Poo , Cat and Yammi all get clutch heat while riding in deep snow.

Vent kits are proven effective to displace heat.


OT

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

ot)riding constant deep powder and the load associated with the deep snow condition will also contribute to clutch heat even when the clutching is perfectly tuned

Joe)Thank you for your astonishing disclosure.

Then knowing the principles;
The #1 cause of system heat is fluctuating rpms.
The #2 cause of system heat (even when rpms don't fluctuate) is too large of helix angle; belt slip in the secondary.
if the rpms fluctuate or helix angle too large, regardless of load value then the temperatures will be higher .
if the rpms fluctuate or helix angle too large, regardless of venting then the temperatures will be higher .
if the rpms fluctuate or helix angle too large, regardless of if you added external cooling features then the temperatures will be higher .

Regardless of load or cooling enhancements, these details are basic to conclude.

 

[Insaneboltrounder/sjohns]

Good thing DJ has ot to help him out. Any other pearls of wisdom out there? Like maybe " constant use of the throttle will result in a higher rate of fuel being used compared to idling"

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Speaking of idling.....

When the sled is sitting idling warming up, excessive idle time will cause a localized heated area on the compression section of the belt.
For those who don't know about belts there is 2 parts, the tension section (top of the belt) and compression section - the part of the belt that has the large sectional ribbed area that wraps around the primary clutch stub.

If the belt deflection is too tight then the belt may start to get hot enough to cause you to smell "hot rubber"

As ot says "Heat can be mitigated by adding correct vents which assist in displacing heat"
Good information and I would like to add that heat caused by excessive idling can also be reduced by shutting the engine off.


Good luck to all!

 

[Insaneboltrounder/sjohns]

Good info ! Got anything about countersteering or track stand tuning there Joe?

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

As a matter of fact, I do have something on "trackstand tuning"

Clicky for "Trackstand Tuning" linky

 

[Original Tetonice]

Joe, here's some useful information.... Your high elevation cutch setup isn't anything special. Your XP setup got beat up pretty bad the other week. Ran hot, couldn't hold the rpm and basically fell on it's face in the deep snow....Im sure you've heard this before.

sjohn, if you have kinks in your countersteering i offer DVD instruction.

Joe, keep working on your mountain setup you'll get there someday. If your ever in the neighboorhood drop me a line and i will be happy to share with you a few more tricks.

Before i forget all the things mentioned by joe can contribute to heat just as he states. With that said even when all things are "RIGHT" excessive heat in certain snow conditions can and will be a TRA issue.

OT

 

[Original Tetonice]

Just one more thing to add before Joe and his crusaders begin to chim in......Joe talks a very good talk which i have yet to see work in the deep & steep mountain snow.

I invite anyone with a DJ kit in there XP or REV to come to Wyoming and prove me wrong.

OT

 

[Insaneboltrounder/sjohns]

sure is peaceful when you use that ignore feature