Clutch - Clutching - T3 specs - 438 ramps

[Dynamo^Joe]

OT, since you spend time approving and disapproving, here I can only introduce a fact of something I did myself.

You tell me if I've done any of what you conclude in your question.

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

Joe since your the self pro claimed open book when it comes to clutching please tell us in detail exactly what you had to do to arrive at those conclusions in your photos....By the way your illustration are always appreciated.

PS: I don't approve or disapprove, remember this is the internet.

DPG

 

[sledsrock]

Who?

I only have one ? - DJ, why you call DPG OT?

 

[hymark860]

Now that's funny haha ^^^^^^^^

Keep up the good work Joe based on facts and not opinions!

 

[9 Iron]

Joe since your the self pro claimed open book when it comes to clutching please tell us in detail exactly what you had to do to arrive at those conclusions in your photos....By the way your illustration are always appreciated.

PS: I don't approve or disapprove, remember this is the internet.

DPG

This is pretty in-experienced question...

Marking the sheeves techniques is also just a in-experienced thing.... This is only good for seeing if you are achieving a 1:1 ratio in given conditions and plays no part in actual clutch performance other that max everything the machine has. There is so much to clutching under max performance that makes a big difference. IE boo docking you are more midrange performance most of the time vs max performance.

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

This is pretty in-experienced question...

Marking the sheeves techniques is also just a in-experienced thing.... This is only good for seeing if you are achieving a 1:1 ratio in given conditions and plays no part in actual clutch performance other that max everything the machine has. There is so much to clutching under max performance that makes a big difference. IE boo docking you are more midrange performance most of the time vs max performance.

In my post I said mark the sheaves, ramp profile and helix cut....When I'm boondocking and the snow is deep I'm wfo

DPG

 

[Ace Freely]

I only have one ? - DJ, why you call DPG OT?

... it's a reference to Original Tetonice. A former forum member that Joe, Kelsy, and Big John used to go round and round with.

... best line that I remeber was Big John telling OT that "trying to explain anything to you is like nailing jello to a tree!".... or something close to that.

OT was banned, and just quit posting.

...I think he was an alright guy, he just played the devils advocate and pissed off some paying sponsers...


Ace

 

[NorthMNSledder]

FYI:
I cleaned out a few posts that while funny...Have nothing to do with this thread. Trying to keep this on topic as there is some good information here. If you are missing a post PM me and I'll send you a copy if you really miss it.

Thanks.

 

[capulin overdrive]

Would adding a QRS Tech Link help with anything, running a turbo???

 

[sledhead_24_7]

Would adding a QRS Tech Link help with anything, running a turbo???

It would not hurt, especially with a turbo.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Would adding a QRS Tech Link help with anything, running a turbo???

Buddy....
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3698654#post3698654

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

Would adding a QRS Tech Link help with anything, running a turbo???

Years ago when we were running big bores and Garret's on triple XLT's , 780 and 670 Doo's we did everything we could to brace the PTO side trying to prevent both the motor & the CVT's from jumping around...The trouble than became where will the engines natural harmonic vibration go next ??? Back then which i still believe holds true today Crank, Jackshaft & Chain all need addressed especially in today's lite weight sleds and OEM stamp out parts....Theres is a machine shop we used to use in MN. that made heavy duty balanced jack shafts which I highly recommend if your running big power in today's sleds...Than I suggest like many of us already know replace your gears & chain with HYVO I'm not sure I would use the belt drive system especially over 200hp. Besides you can replace your entire HYVO 4 to 5 riding season for the cost of 1 belt drive kit.....Pull your crank and have it balanced there are even machine shops that can beef up your stock crank or if $$$ are no object build a billet one....Than finish everything off with bracing.

And hang on the power to the ground is extremely noticeable, the heat between the sheaves will drop resulting in optimum performance from the crank, to the drive, to the driven, to the jack shaft, to the chain case....also get rid of the stock drivers and install some Avids

People spend a lot of money buying clutch kits but seldom do they or there supplier address outside components critical to clutching performance.

DPG

 

[hymark860]

^^^^^^^Wouldn't even compete with today's stock sleds! ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[sledhead_24_7]

Years ago when we were running big bores and Garret's on triple XLT's , 780 and 670 Doo's we did everything we could to brace the PTO side trying to prevent both the motor & the CVT's from jumping around...The trouble than became where will the engines natural harmonic vibration go next ??? Back then which i still believe holds true today Crank, Jackshaft & Chain all need addressed especially in today's lite weight sleds and OEM stamp out parts....Theres is a machine shop we used to use in MN. that made heavy duty balanced jack shafts which I highly recommend if your running big power in today's sleds...Than I suggest like many of us already know replace your gears & chain with HYVO I'm not sure I would use the belt drive system especially over 200hp. Besides you can replace your entire HYVO 4 to 5 riding season for the cost of 1 belt drive kit.....Pull your crank and have it balanced there are even machine shops that can beef up your stock crank or if $$$ are no object build a billet one....Than finish everything off with bracing.

And hang on the power to the ground is extremely noticeable, the heat between the sheaves will drop resulting in optimum performance from the crank, to the drive, to the driven, to the jack shaft, to the chain case....also get rid of the stock drivers and install some Avids

People spend a lot of money buying clutch kits but seldom do they or there supplier address outside components critical to clutching performance.

DPG

If building a $50,000 mod sled is your game the above plan is defiantly the way to go!!!!

Unfortunately most are not out to go that deep, nor have the check book deep enough to handle that kind of action.

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

I think the OEMs can offer it for under $20K...but will they ? OEM parts are Big Big part of a factories revenue source. Belts used to cost 50 bucks now there 150 bucks what's the incentive to build stronger sleds ? The factory wants them to break or wear out so the OEM can sell you that over inflated widget or a new sled.

I own a SL500 AMG roadster my shift solenoid went out preventing me to shift out of park..$10.00 part cost me $750 for the part and 5 hours labor @ 95.00 per hour. Snowmobiles are no different.

DPG

 

[Deep Powder Guy]

If building a $50,000 mod sled is your game the above plan is defiantly the way to go!!!!

Unfortunately most are not out to go that deep, nor have the check book deep enough to handle that kind of action.

I don't know lots of spendy mod sleds out there. Some guys know where to spend there $$$ and some guys don't.

DPG