Best up grade other than extroverts!
Center driver problem solved
- Thread starter Hemi
- Start date
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lightening800
Well-known member
in some snow conditions it packs them full of snow and can become 1 big ball of ice, only happened to 1 sled i have seen..
^ x2
I have seen guys with sled on it's side using their shovel handle to break ice off driver. Friend Brian in Revy, track ripped because of ice ball.
Dewayne as we talked about, I've had customers put new C/E's on and didn't take center driver out, now have damage to inside drive knubs.
It's not always a perfect world when it comes to track tension and snow conditions. This for me is a problem solved before it starts.
Have great Xmas everyone, and eat turkey until you fart feathers. LOL
I have seen guys with sled on it's side using their shovel handle to break ice off driver. Friend Brian in Revy, track ripped because of ice ball.
Dewayne as we talked about, I've had customers put new C/E's on and didn't take center driver out, now have damage to inside drive knubs.
It's not always a perfect world when it comes to track tension and snow conditions. This for me is a problem solved before it starts.
Have great Xmas everyone, and eat turkey until you fart feathers. LOL
L
lightening800
Well-known member
thanks curtis my track came in on sat noonish, holy does that track ever shoot a nasty roost behind it, guarantee to never have a cooling/slider issue ever again, no ****.. i was amazed in the roost...lol
We've had our center drivers ice up on a few occasions, the vibration can't be good for the track or drive train. Plus it's a PITA to remove the ice.
Hemi what did you use to cut the center driver out.
Thanks,
Ken
Hemi what did you use to cut the center driver out.
Thanks,
Ken
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pura vida
Well-known member
yup, did the same think on mine. well, at least on the dragon. the pro got 8 tooth involute drivers and a PC. that whole center driver thing was the biggest POS thing polaris did. if you actually run your track close to factory tension you won't ratchet. i often ride in heavy wet snow and i NEVER ratchet. it's been so long i've stopped thinking about it actually. and don't forget, just b/c you can move your sled around in the garage easier b/c you loosened your track does NOT mean it performs better on the snow. quite the opposite actually. proper tensioned tracks are better preforming tracks regardless of what drivers you use. lots of discussions on this in other threads
pv
pv
X2 ^
Extroverts are still the best, I'm just waiting for my chaincase. There is a write up coming out in Snowest (or it may be out) on a new chaincase in the market. I've been asked not to say anything until the write up is public. The new extended chaincase (with awsome instructions for install) goes in and the new 156 x 3 track will be installed after it is custom cut.
As far as how the removal of the center driver went. A saws-all with a ground down rounded tip (just being careful not to screw up) is what I used to cut 1/2 way through then go to other side of sled do same thing. Then I used a short goose-neck & hammer to finish cutting through. Rotate track 1/2 turn and repeat. Just be carefull around limiter strap. BTW I'm installing a secound limiter strap just because !!
L8TR: Curt
pv, So when you say proper tention, are you referring to Polaris 3/8"-1/2"? I am running mine 3/4" loose. To me it just seems that if you cant roll the track by hand when the track is off the ground it would rob power. Mine rolls easy being a little bit looser. Just my thoughts. May be wrong let me know. Thanks
Stone
Wouldn't it be easier to cut it with a hot knife.
I think I'll be doing the same this week, just cant see it being good on the track with or without ice build up
So I have had a pro for two seasons now and have basically on been sledding for 3 years. I am still definatly learning the ins and outs of proper sled setup as well as tricks and tips to solving common problems.
Could someone "dumb this down" a bit for me. I'm not exactly sure what part of the track system your talking about and what the problem is. I keep my track tension on the looser side of the spec (3/4" or so)
Could someone "dumb this down" a bit for me. I'm not exactly sure what part of the track system your talking about and what the problem is. I keep my track tension on the looser side of the spec (3/4" or so)
With the stock drivers i would think it would ratchet with the track being that loose. I changed my drivers out using Avid anti ratchets and antistab kit on the skis. I can run the track 3/4" loose with no ratchet issues. here is a pic of the different drivers.
Stone
Hey so when your talking about "ratcheting" is that when the track skips on the drivers?? I haven't noticed that yet.
So why do you have to run the anti stab wheels? I have had both a cat 440 snopro and a 08 summit and they both had extroverts and no anti stab wheels. I know that I had put them on a mod sled I once had but if the cat and doo live without them why waste you money?
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Skeld
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure my track will ratchet under hard braking but not acceleration. Anyone noticed that before? A sign that it is on the edge of being loose, or just the nature of these drivers? I believe most of my sleds have had the extrovert (I think) drivers that actually stuck through the track.
Any risk of ratcheting without the center driver
