they said this:
19°@8100rpm
31°@4000rpm
19°@8100rpm
31°@4000rpm
carls 910 seems thermostate??
- Thread starter pharotek
- Start date
Yup, disconnect the TPS. Get a micrometer and check either the timing marks on the flywheel or idealy mark the clutch with a new mark (Check out the SLP how-to, its aweseme). Then check it at 8100rpm. Set it to what Carl's told you.
If you have the reprogrammed CDI you will find it is 4 degrees advanced with the key in premium mode. Again, SLP's guide gives you good info on how to accomplish that.
sled_guy
If you have the reprogrammed CDI you will find it is 4 degrees advanced with the key in premium mode. Again, SLP's guide gives you good info on how to accomplish that.
sled_guy
Thanks sled guy! I got contacted by Chris from Carls again today. He wants me to set it to factory specs 1st at low RPM, he says all of Carls settings are for 8k elevation and up!
How ever i have made some progress on the sled today (keep in mind still waiting for friend to show up to help check timing he has the timing gun and tools to do it). See remarks for my progess:
-I have removed the 550N main jets and found that 560 are actually larger. I do have a few larger main jets on the way.
-while removing the Carbs i found this Image DET Issue i bent it awat from motor
-I have siliconed all the springs and exhaust fittings
-Removed all the gas from the system and put in fresh gas that should be at 101oct 2.15gals of 110 and 3gals of nonE 91oct
I went out back and made 2 ~600' pulls see old plug images, they cleaned up well and turned from yellow to slight brown
I then installed fresh plugs and did 3 ~600' pulls See "New images"
Also while doing all this the Temp light never flashed once! I made around 7 600' pulls all together. Still want to check timing but i'm not holding my breath on it just yet. Based on new plugs, seems i need to go up 1-2 sizes on my main jet and maybe even my needle jet which is at #3 notch.
Last edited:
I would like to thank everyone for the help and taking the time to invest into my issue's (even though it was my fault). I learned a few things i didn't even know and learned what and how the DET system works. I went out today and rode ~45 miles with no DET light. I have finally gotten the plugs light brown as well, though it took 620 main jet to do it, which seems rather large, but it's brown now at least and didn't blow up at all today!
I did notice one thing maybe it's common with this motor since it is a big motor. Seems the recoil or lower end is getting heat soaked if that is the correct term for this issue...???? Rode for ~25 miles then stopped for a short break, went to pull the rope to start back up and it pulled right out and did not grab the cup (i do have a brand new spring in also) then got it to grab and it would not start on 1st pull like it normally does. I had to give it full throttle then it started. looked at my temp gauge it read 165°F. After about 1min of running at idle it dropped down to ~120°F. seems heat is building up in the lower end? Is their something i can do to help get that heat out or no? A buddy was with me and said his sled does similar thing once it gets hot from being out riding and has to give it throttle to start back up, but his recoil doesn't stick/slip like mine does??
btw.. My timing is right around 28-32 low RPM, it was hard to get a good reading due to the timing gun we were using was having issue's and jumping around a lot. SLP direction worked wonders thank you for posting to use them!!!
-Aaron
I did notice one thing maybe it's common with this motor since it is a big motor. Seems the recoil or lower end is getting heat soaked if that is the correct term for this issue...???? Rode for ~25 miles then stopped for a short break, went to pull the rope to start back up and it pulled right out and did not grab the cup (i do have a brand new spring in also) then got it to grab and it would not start on 1st pull like it normally does. I had to give it full throttle then it started. looked at my temp gauge it read 165°F. After about 1min of running at idle it dropped down to ~120°F. seems heat is building up in the lower end? Is their something i can do to help get that heat out or no? A buddy was with me and said his sled does similar thing once it gets hot from being out riding and has to give it throttle to start back up, but his recoil doesn't stick/slip like mine does??
btw.. My timing is right around 28-32 low RPM, it was hard to get a good reading due to the timing gun we were using was having issue's and jumping around a lot. SLP direction worked wonders thank you for posting to use them!!!
-Aaron
-top of piston is all black(what i could see down the plug hole) when i checked it prior to installing the 620's from the 560's. It does seem a little sluggish now i think i'm going to try 600's once they arrive on Monday. In all honesty if i am rich i'd be happy to be rich and not blow the dam thing up!
-That is a great idea i didn't even think of it my self... those twin pipes to shed off a lot of heat too! i'm cover it with reflective tape and see what happens. I also have some hot air eliminators to install on that side also i got from SLP a while ago.
I'll they the tap and hot air elimination ports i have tomorrow and see how it goes!
-That is a great idea i didn't even think of it my self... those twin pipes to shed off a lot of heat too! i'm cover it with reflective tape and see what happens. I also have some hot air eliminators to install on that side also i got from SLP a while ago.
I'll they the tap and hot air elimination ports i have tomorrow and see how it goes!
Last edited:
Checking wash is easier to do if you pull the pipes or an exhaust valve as well as the spark plug. Lets you look in through one opening and shine light in through the other.
I disagree about wash being more important than plug readings, though it is good to check. Wash gives you a long term, overall jetting story but does not give you an idea of what the jetting is at specific throttle/load combos. Wash also takes some time to change. Color of plugs is good to check, but so is close inspection of the electrode and the barrel/base. The further along the ground electrode the burn ring is the hotter the motor is running. Its tough to describe...I recommend googling some reading material on plug reading or youtubing the same. To do plug readings you have to run at the RPM of interest under the load of interest for a bit then "chop" the throttle/ignition (hit kill switch) and come to a stop. Then check plugs. It can be tedious, but is the "right" way to do it.
All black piston tops=lean when checking wash.
Some throttle to restart the motor is normal, though not full throttle. I usually use 1/4-1/3 throttle on restart but I don't have a big bore, just stock bore.
I disagree about wash being more important than plug readings, though it is good to check. Wash gives you a long term, overall jetting story but does not give you an idea of what the jetting is at specific throttle/load combos. Wash also takes some time to change. Color of plugs is good to check, but so is close inspection of the electrode and the barrel/base. The further along the ground electrode the burn ring is the hotter the motor is running. Its tough to describe...I recommend googling some reading material on plug reading or youtubing the same. To do plug readings you have to run at the RPM of interest under the load of interest for a bit then "chop" the throttle/ignition (hit kill switch) and come to a stop. Then check plugs. It can be tedious, but is the "right" way to do it.
All black piston tops=lean when checking wash.
Some throttle to restart the motor is normal, though not full throttle. I usually use 1/4-1/3 throttle on restart but I don't have a big bore, just stock bore.
I agree with all of the above but it seems people have an easier time jetting with wash than plugs. Learning how to jet using plugs takes more work for the majority of people. Using both together and you have the best tuning method.
Also i have seen color changes depending on fuel run and length of time plugs are run aswell, can muddy the waters so to speak.
Also i have seen color changes depending on fuel run and length of time plugs are run aswell, can muddy the waters so to speak.
thank for the info guys. I have been working on the sled and i'm down to 600's ATM. I went out to test it and found a issue i over looked and need to correct it to continue dialing in my jetting. currently i'm strongly on the rich side after my last ride with the 620's.
I over looked putting a sheild over the coolant hose's i put to go up thru the tunnel to the rear cooler. I bottomed out screwing around in my feild and hit the hose with my track...... I have installed 9" wheel kit so now the track sits higher... I should have known better.... I'm in the process of making a gaurd then will continue to tune the jetting in. As it stands i have ~80 miles now of riding on the sled with no more of the issue's i had before and on trail with loose snow it holds 120-135°F!!!
I tell you i cannot thank this site for being around enough for all that i have learned from everyone here!
Thank you! to the site makers and members involed on this thread!
Aaron
I over looked putting a sheild over the coolant hose's i put to go up thru the tunnel to the rear cooler. I bottomed out screwing around in my feild and hit the hose with my track...... I have installed 9" wheel kit so now the track sits higher... I should have known better.... I'm in the process of making a gaurd then will continue to tune the jetting in. As it stands i have ~80 miles now of riding on the sled with no more of the issue's i had before and on trail with loose snow it holds 120-135°F!!!
I tell you i cannot thank this site for being around enough for all that i have learned from everyone here!
Thank you! to the site makers and members involed on this thread!
Aaron
Last edited:
What elevation are you riding at? I am just installing my 910 and was going to start with 520N jets but may need bigger? I currently run 490's in my twin piped 800 at 2200' and -30C.
How are people running a t-stat with the 910, my head isn't machined to fit one???
How are people running a t-stat with the 910, my head isn't machined to fit one???
Ya I guess the 800 xcr used a remote housing. I might look into that next year.
Like this one:
http://stewartpeakparts.com/index.p...category_id=53&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=4
My head has a small restrictor but its not much, guess we will see in a day or two when i take it for a test ride.
What cc head do you run?
Like this one:
http://stewartpeakparts.com/index.p...category_id=53&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=4
My head has a small restrictor but its not much, guess we will see in a day or two when i take it for a test ride.
What cc head do you run?
Last edited:
From what i have found they offered a 55cc and a 50cc.
I spoke with jack at carls and he said they were 12:1 and 13:1 compression for those heads, not the 14.5/15.5 that seems to be floating around.
I run the 50cc heads, or hope to if my pipes ever show up.
I spoke with jack at carls and he said they were 12:1 and 13:1 compression for those heads, not the 14.5/15.5 that seems to be floating around.
I run the 50cc heads, or hope to if my pipes ever show up.
i had on 50cc heads(high comp ones) and based on another guys info that has one out here in NY and runs in same elveation 0-3,000. i was told the follow for starting points from carls cycle tech.
-Remove 6cc from the head (had a local machine shop do it for $100
-Take squish from ~0.52-0.54 too ~0.66-0.72(this was part of the way to run pump gas)
-Install 540 main jets for starting point(i'm now at 580main jets)
-I was told to adjust the timming...however leaving the key in normal postion seems to be working for me just fine.
-the guy out here claims he runs straight 93 pump gass with above changes......however i have not tested it yet...not sure if i even plan too......
Things i have done...
-using 40% 110 with 60%93 seems to help a lot
-Added rear cooler from RMk
-Bypass coolant line removed
-Thermostate removed and it had this "restritor plate" in i guess call it
-SLP twin pipes
-re geared and clutched
-Ice scrachers are on order andi highly recommend them based off cooling issue's i had with my 01 edge chassis...
i am now up to 250miles on the motor and she is going great! I though have some new ideas in store for next year and will see how things are going to go.... I attended a few hill drag races this year.... may get a different chassis and set it up for it...IDK though not sure if i wanna deal with all the crap again....
-Remove 6cc from the head (had a local machine shop do it for $100
-Take squish from ~0.52-0.54 too ~0.66-0.72(this was part of the way to run pump gas)
-Install 540 main jets for starting point(i'm now at 580main jets)
-I was told to adjust the timming...however leaving the key in normal postion seems to be working for me just fine.
-the guy out here claims he runs straight 93 pump gass with above changes......however i have not tested it yet...not sure if i even plan too......
Things i have done...
-using 40% 110 with 60%93 seems to help a lot
-Added rear cooler from RMk
-Bypass coolant line removed
-Thermostate removed and it had this "restritor plate" in i guess call it
-SLP twin pipes
-re geared and clutched
-Ice scrachers are on order andi highly recommend them based off cooling issue's i had with my 01 edge chassis...
i am now up to 250miles on the motor and she is going great! I though have some new ideas in store for next year and will see how things are going to go.... I attended a few hill drag races this year.... may get a different chassis and set it up for it...IDK though not sure if i wanna deal with all the crap again....
Last edited:
was double post
Last edited:
i can check it once i get home, but last i though was in 150 area... My gauge sucks too, so i'll get a new one on way home if i can..
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Plug readings with race gas are much different than than they are with pump gas. Based on the type of race fuel you are running it most likely has lead in it this is going to drastically change where the burn line is on the electrode strap. (slower burn) Its also going to change the color on the porcelain as well. Tuning this sled to standards used for normal pump gas engines isnt going to work because your looking for the wrong things.
I ran 560 jets in mine when I flat land rode it, it was rich and I could have probably dropped to 540's. If your at 580's with 56cc heads I have to think all of your starting problems are based on the fact that your pushing too much fuel through the engine. My octane rating was different but thats because I am running high compression heads that are cut to lower cc's
I ran 560 jets in mine when I flat land rode it, it was rich and I could have probably dropped to 540's. If your at 580's with 56cc heads I have to think all of your starting problems are based on the fact that your pushing too much fuel through the engine. My octane rating was different but thats because I am running high compression heads that are cut to lower cc's
Last edited:
