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Carbed 2 stroke turbo guy's !!!

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Tony, do you mean keeping it from blowing off the carbs? If so, look at my first picture on post #411.

I got a screw threaded in thru the airbox flange into the carb. You may not have room due to the double o-rings you have but it is very simple and works.
 
Gus

Have talked to you earlier about turboing my price 1425.

I have a set of crankshop 54 mm carbs. What do you think about the size ? Possible or not to tune the engine ?
 
The size the carbs is not the problem,, they leak ,, they have poor venting passages and fittings, poor low speed circuit fuel handling and so forth.

use cpc carbs or mikuni...sorry. Larry's shop is 2 hours from me, I can t use them either,, wish I could..He did make my carbs plates..

Tony, funny how the triple though, smaller cc needs more due to its third hole to fill, third pipe to fill volume gains,, more overlap, more leak.

******Working with Tony has been a delight, He's picked up on what these like so fast I have to question who he really is ???? LOL.
Yes to the internal stinger sir, note the fuel pressure difference in response to throttle before and after the internal stinger reinstall... I'm curious how much faster it climbs not so much a total pressure change..Though I do expect one that will correlate to the 5-7 over figure for best overall performance...bet now its a little less /????

You guys are all fun..why else would we do this...at 45 years old....

Gus
 
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hey devil and gus

the carbs are not the prob on my edge! unhooked the PJ's and put all of the stock jets in and no good! the one thing i left out of my last post was i forgot to hook up the tps that was when all of the problems started. I hooked it up and no good still.

Could this make sense? If the cdi was not understanding where the throttle was would it not advance the timing? should i buy the tps test thing and look at it?

any input would be great
 
Ive got mine running great! cleaned up the bottom and it pulls like a freight train now.. Tony im running straight av gas with 12lbs. and no problems at all. Gus thanks for all the info..
 
the carbs are not the prob on my edge! unhooked the PJ's and put all of the stock jets in and no good! the one thing i left out of my last post was i forgot to hook up the tps that was when all of the problems started. I hooked it up and no good still.

Could this make sense? If the cdi was not understanding where the throttle was would it not advance the timing? should i buy the tps test thing and look at it?

any input would be great


I doubt it has anything to do with the TPS or CDI. If it worked before, unhooking it and running it wouldn't hurt it once its hooked back up. What kind of fuel pressure is it getting up to the point that it becomes a problem? If your base is at 5, then it should be 10 or less at the point that it starts to boost.
 
fuel pressure

is set at 3-4 while idling and it does not leave that even when you try to rap it out because it starts to gurgle like i am pouring fuel down the cylinder, But here is the kicker. i unhooked the tps while running and it does the same thing as if it was hooked up, so in my train of thought it is not doing anything! Does that make sense to you, because it makes sense to me. I traced my wires on the new regulator i installed and i am wondering if that might have done it. but it is working like it should, at my hand warmers i have 9 volts at idle and close to 10 at 5k and 12 at 7 k
 
turbo's

Thanks Gus,
Will work along them lines, 2871 it is. Have a few more ideas later that i will need to ask about when i get closer, thanks again, Dave
 
Tony, do you mean keeping it from blowing off the carbs? If so, look at my first picture on post #411.

I got a screw threaded in thru the airbox flange into the carb. You may not have room due to the double o-rings you have but it is very simple and works.

Devil, Yeh I'd love to do that, but you're right on.....double orings leave no room. Right now I use a devise to pull the box toward an anchor point on the engine assuming that I would also take the strain off the carb boots. I've broke it twice now. I figured that the forces trying to pull the box off with 10psi on those big carb bells would be equivilent to a 100# pull. Just gotta beef it up a bit more.

Gus, hmmmmmmm.. "Who he really is".........LOL.........Just a dip stick from the west(Nevada) who has been race'n a little and blowin sleds up for better than 30 yrs. You tend to learn a few things. Also kinda an egg head who wants to know why things work. I've spent a ton of time at the shows looking at everyone's turbo setup and talked to many folks(such as yourself) who were good enough to share their knowledge.

What is that old saying?

Experience is what you get, when you screw up! :o

Knowledge is what you get, when ya pay attention! ;)



t
 
is set at 3-4 while idling and it does not leave that even when you try to rap it out because it starts to gurgle like i am pouring fuel down the cylinder, But here is the kicker. i unhooked the tps while running and it does the same thing as if it was hooked up, so in my train of thought it is not doing anything! Does that make sense to you, because it makes sense to me. I traced my wires on the new regulator i installed and i am wondering if that might have done it. but it is working like it should, at my hand warmers i have 9 volts at idle and close to 10 at 5k and 12 at 7 k

Hey Dave, not sure if this will help, but I spent a lot of time being lean while I was tuning on my turbo. Lean on my motor was similar to a gurgle. It would fall on it's face but still run. Sounded a lot like a rev limiter. I'm thinking if your fuel pressure doesn't raise then you can't feed the beast within. I'm no expert, but I'd be looking at your fuel system????????
 
is set at 3-4 while idling and it does not leave that even when you try to rap it out because it starts to gurgle like i am pouring fuel down the cylinder, But here is the kicker. i unhooked the tps while running and it does the same thing as if it was hooked up, so in my train of thought it is not doing anything! Does that make sense to you, because it makes sense to me. I traced my wires on the new regulator i installed and i am wondering if that might have done it. but it is working like it should, at my hand warmers i have 9 volts at idle and close to 10 at 5k and 12 at 7 k


I doubt it has anything to do with the voltage regulator. Mine was dead shorted and it still ran fine.
 
You guys keep me laughing and smiling.. thats priceless..

he could very well be just really lean now that the e port is open.

somethings a miss, what does it do when you snap the choke on just as you engage the belt ??that tells you lean or rich right there.. no quess work, either gets better or gets worse..



You guys all have a grasp on these now, its one of the things that makes for a strong BASE for a turbo shop or builder to pull from. The success of Mr. Stanger is evidence of that too..

I still prefer to stay out of the builder game and focus on utilizing the existing systems tuned to our likings..

Next thing is the use of an air to water charge cooler. I have 2 for testing and see it as MANDATORY for flatlanders like myself. We see little snow and lots of extended part throttle light load crusing..time will tell,

We have 1 for the promod that i have to PROVE in field first.

is charge temp going to be an issue in a dead cold engine and turbo in 5 seconds of run time.?? 4.5 seconds or less under full load, 3 seconds at 20 plus psi..........hummmmmm

starting line engine/coolant temp will be 60 degrees
turbo will be that or less...........we do not need to warm up on a jackstand, just set it down, start it,, wait for treee to go green.....

we shalll seee


Ideas ???/

Gus




Gus
 
there is a puddle

of fuel under the pipe, the only way i can get it to sort of rev up is by opening the throttle about 1/8th to 1/4 and let it slowly rev up but when the belt engages it bogs, and dies. Plugs are cover'd in fuel and the choke does not help at all. it is not lean, and there is fuel pressure and it should still do something with the charge tube taken out with the factory jetting that is why i was wondering about the tps...

Gus

does that even sound right? i mean with the tps hooked up it runs the same as if it is unhooked! and if there is no advance it would not burn any of the fuel?
 
of fuel under the pipe, the only way i can get it to sort of rev up is by opening the throttle about 1/8th to 1/4 and let it slowly rev up but when the belt engages it bogs, and dies. Plugs are cover'd in fuel and the choke does not help at all. it is not lean, and there is fuel pressure and it should still do something with the charge tube taken out with the factory jetting that is why i was wondering about the tps...

Gus

does that even sound right? i mean with the tps hooked up it runs the same as if it is unhooked! and if there is no advance it would not burn any of the fuel?

A dumb question but you arent running the stock pump w/ the electric are you? Do you have your pulse fitting on the case for the stock pump plugged into something or just plugged?
 
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also are you sure that a pilot jet or main jet hasnt fallen out? o-rings for the needle and seat are good? Also make sure that the choke plungers are sitting on there seats and not barely hanging open. The last one happened to me, chokes were just barely hangin open.
 
i am

going to check that to make sure it is still plugged but it was plugged with a vacuum cap with hose clamp,

does any one know how many degrees that tps will change the timing ?
 
if its just a plug im sure its fine. (had a thundercat that had the pump crap out and was pulling fuel through the pulse line)
also you might wany to make sure that your needles are still being held down in the slides. i had one years ago that came loose and would ride up in the mid and flood the crap out it.
 
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pretty

darn sure that everything is ok, i mean i can pull the carbs out in about a minute and i dont think that anything would of happened to them in the minute that it took to put back in and start,, but i will check that also,, i am also going to check the tps while hooked up, I guess i could also check the voltage out of the CDI to the TPS to make sure it is ok
 
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