Can't remove 2014 800 primary

[autowrench]

I must be old school. I used grease in the threads and teflon tape on Cats and Ski Doo. Worked very well. I'm surprised no one mentioned letting the water freeze to pop off the clutch. I may have missed it....
Tom

 

[freak485]

Just because someone gets on here posts what they did wheather or not its dumb or not doesnt me you need to come on here and bash them. hehe hope your crank is ok blah blah blah who cares we all do dumb stuff once and awhile wheather its on purpose because we are in a hurry or just for got to do it the right way cause we are tired. Hell i posted a topic about hearing a pop in my chain case couldnt figure out why well i was tired read the manul wrong and tighted the chain to the foot pounds that the holding nut was supposed to be! Well somone knew right what it was and people still keep on posting bs after i had posted realizing what i did wrong. Give the guy a break.

And i had the same problem i put a tad of anti seize on now and clean them up good and take off every 500 miles. never had a problem since comes off with hand tools now.

 

[rmscustom]

Yeah I was a little harsh. I should've of nicely said that them actions are not a good idea for the health of your crank.

Now I'm going to nicely tell you that I think anti-seize is not a very good idea either. Clean and dry taper and bore with brake cleaner so they are free of any oil or contaminants then torque, run and repeat until it wont take anymore torque.

Warning, the above is my opinion please do not get butthurt over it or I may become harsh again. jk

 

[Excalibur]

Yeah I was a little harsh. I should've of nicely said that them actions are not a good idea for the health of your crank.

Now I'm going to nicely tell you that I think anti-seize is not a very good idea either. Clean and dry taper and bore with brake cleaner so they are free of any oil or contaminants then torque, run and repeat until it wont take anymore torque.

Warning, the above is my opinion please do not get butthurt over it or I may become harsh again. jk

RMS is correct, no lube.

Quote from IndyDan:


Torque Is important - The proper steps leading up to torquing maybe more important.

#1 - Understand what your trying to acheive.

#2 - The goal here is to get the drive clutch and the crank snout to become locked together as tite as possible without damaging the bolt. ( so the drive clutch does NOT spin on the crank ) and weld itself to the crank ( normally cocked if it happens )

#3 - Prep -One of the most important steps, is to make sure both the drive clutch bore and the crank snout is polished and clean with a very fine scotch-brite type item. ( dirty hands are a killer to the final process )
make sure the last thing you do is wash your hands and then clean both the clutch bore and the crank snout with a brake cleaner type product. so they are completely dry when they go together.

#4 - 80 ft Ibs is really enough for any snowmobile, ....... 96 is really pushing the strength of the botl and I would NOT recomend going that tite.

#5 - Just make damn sure you do a few run ups and retorque, then a mild drive with easy engagements and then another retorque.

#6 - how do you know when your done..............When the bolt stops taking torque your done.

#7 - if anyone EVER tells you to put any kind of lube on the crank or clutch..........do NOT ever try this.

some People have gotten by with this.........Its dead wrong.

the better you seat the clutch to the crank to defy slipping the easier it will come off next time.

Have a GREAT riding year!!!!

IndyDan
__________________

 

[ZR 900]

No anti seize

RMS is correct, no lube.

Quote from IndyDan:


Torque Is important - The proper steps leading up to torquing maybe more important.

#1 - Understand what your trying to acheive.

#2 - The goal here is to get the drive clutch and the crank snout to become locked together as tite as possible without damaging the bolt. ( so the drive clutch does NOT spin on the crank ) and weld itself to the crank ( normally cocked if it happens )

#3 - Prep -One of the most important steps, is to make sure both the drive clutch bore and the crank snout is polished and clean with a very fine scotch-brite type item. ( dirty hands are a killer to the final process )
make sure the last thing you do is wash your hands and then clean both the clutch bore and the crank snout with a brake cleaner type product. so they are completely dry when they go together.

#4 - 80 ft Ibs is really enough for any snowmobile, ....... 96 is really pushing the strength of the botl and I would NOT recomend going that tite.

#5 - Just make damn sure you do a few run ups and retorque, then a mild drive with easy engagements and then another retorque.

#6 - how do you know when your done..............When the bolt stops taking torque your done.

#7 - if anyone EVER tells you to put any kind of lube on the crank or clutch..........do NOT ever try this.

some People have gotten by with this.........Its dead wrong.

the better you seat the clutch to the crank to defy slipping the easier it will come off next time.

Have a GREAT riding year!!!!

IndyDan
__________________

Thanks. Didn't use any anti seize. Didn't clean it up either tho. Ran it hard all weekend. No problems. Will check torque right now. So far so good.

 

[P Money]

Just because someone gets on here posts what they did wheather or not its dumb or not doesnt me you need to come on here and bash them. hehe hope your crank is ok blah blah blah who cares we all do dumb stuff once and awhile wheather its on purpose because we are in a hurry or just for got to do it the right way cause we are tired. Hell i posted a topic about hearing a pop in my chain case couldnt figure out why well i was tired read the manul wrong and tighted the chain to the foot pounds that the holding nut was supposed to be! Well somone knew right what it was and people still keep on posting bs after i had posted realizing what i did wrong. Give the guy a break.

And i had the same problem i put a tad of anti seize on now and clean them up good and take off every 500 miles. never had a problem since comes off with hand tools now.

Agreed however "STFU azzhole" is out of line to a guy giving you a little ribbing...

Either way enough BS, now he has the options of diff ways to properly do it...