Can't get the helix back in

[Pro-8250]

I am changing the spring on two secondary clutches. I got the helix back in on the first one but I am having a difficult time getting the helix back on to the second one. No matter what I do I am not having any luck with the second one. I do have the square part of the helix in the vise but I can't turn in clutch 100% of the way. The first one I was able to do by hand no vise. I did add a snap ring washer to both clutches on the advise by TEAM and SLP.

 

[cascadesnowjunky]

Look closely at the recess cut into the movable sheave with the helix sitting on there, it sometimes is not centered perfectly and you have to push to the side and down at the same time. Hope this helps

 

[bootz1981]

i was told by dwight at action sports that there is a spline that matches up like there is a KING SPLINE so to speek. if you look close there is 1 spline that is diff than the rest and it has to match up with the helix

 

[tobyshepherd22]

Helix

The splines are only for lining up the sheaves, and has nothing to do with the helix. I work at a Polaris shop and we change all the secondary springs in the new sleds and my job is to set up the new sleds. The Helix should slip in about 95% of the way and I find the easiest way to pop the helix in to make a fist with both hands and give the helix a good whack with a hand on each side of the helix. It should pop right in. Line up the holes by spinning the sheaves and or helix.

If you would rather be very gentle you can squeeze around the secondary sheaves and the helix will eventually fall right in.

 

[Pro-8250]

Thanks Tobyshepherd22 I agree with you 100%. Especially about the 95% rotation. My problem was when I was to that 95% point, the helix was as far as it could go. The helix was flat up against the clutch. It was impossible for it to go any further. The first clutch I did worked out, but not this one. Both are identical. I tried at least 15 times to get this right. Only by accident did I get this to work, and I know it's not the preferred way!! I had the helix in the vise and put the clutch down on the helix. Put my belt around the sheaves and rotated the clutch as hard as I could. As luck would have it the clutch came loose and fell about 40"and hit the concrete floor. The helix popped out and I tried again to get the helix back in. It did finally go in, even though it was not easy, but I did get it to go in. I hope I did not damage the housing. I do not see any nicks or cracks in the housing. And no this is not a BS story. I have to believe the snap ring washer has to have something to do with it because it does push those rubber rollers down farther, I do believe.

50-99 TSS-04 TEAM Clutch 2.95

The SLP Helix/Spring Shim will help maintain peak RPM riding at extreme
elevations (8,000 ft. and above). This shim spaces the hub of the clutch in
0.070" which raises the spring pre-load and rate by 8 to 10 pounds. It also
shortens the length of the initial (steeper) angle on a multi-angle helix
(ie. 58/38.46 with a shim would become a 58/38.40). This improves backshift
characteristics at high elevations in very steep conditions. It is
especially beneficial when using long, aggressive tracks.

 

[m8sandman]

theres a good how to video of this on youtube...

 

[GREICO1]

Team Sideload

Try backing out the sheave width adjust screw. Fatal flaw on the team clutch is the single adjust screw, causing the sheave to be constantly side loaded. I will be adding at least one more to my new clutch this year, if not 2, to help prevent premature wear on the bushing.

 

[Boston Racing]

Back out the deflection screw. It is causing the helix to be partially open making it hard to seat. I have seen guys strip out the threads because they try and use the bolts to pull it in.

 

[Pro-8250]

I would never have thought of that. Thanks! I am learning.