Secondary Helix Bolts?

[Chewy22]

Do the adapt secondaries use the same helixes as the ascenders? Want to swap out one if so....

Correct.

 

[Sage Crusher]

This is what came out and went into my 154 3" base sled.

That's pretty coincidental.
I dropped in a helix I had cut from Venom, was just playing with numbers and tried a 54/48 .30 with a venom 155/ 240 Gr/Pink on a clients 858 -165 said it woke the bottom and mid and is happy-
Clutches were pretty clean in the heavy snow we have now vs. the slipping he had with the stock set-up

Find out more next week when I am free to go play.

 

[dunatyk]

Finally received my Ibexx kit and after getting one more ride on the stock clutching Saturday decided to throw the kit in yesterday. Primary went pretty quick on the sled, but those secondary bolts definitely turned into a crapshoot. I used my good Allen keys and as much heat as I dared and was only able to successfully get one out. They used red loctite from the factory. Ended up drilling the heads off to get the helix out then welding nuts to the screws with my little 110 wire feed to turn them out. Went pretty smooth other than one that I drilled a bit deep so it was pretty much recessed in the clutch, after going through about 5 nuts I finally got it to hold though. Just wish I would have done a bit better job of covering the clutch, got a bit of splatter on the backside of the sheave so it’s not so pretty. If I was to do it again I’d probably just go straight to welding the nuts to the head of the screws. Installed the bdx screws on reassembly, they came with blue loctite on them so I called that good enough.

Finally received my Ibexx kit and after getting one more ride on the stock clutching Saturday decided to throw the kit in yesterday. Primary went pretty quick on the sled, but those secondary bolts definitely turned into a crapshoot. I used my good Allen keys and as much heat as I dared and was only able to successfully get one out. They used red loctite from the factory. Ended up drilling the heads off to get the helix out then welding nuts to the screws with my little 110 wire feed to turn them out. Went pretty smooth other than one that I drilled a bit deep so it was pretty much recessed in the clutch, after going through about 5 nuts I finally got it to hold though. Just wish I would have done a bit better job of covering the clutch, got a bit of splatter on the backside of the sheave so it’s not so pretty. If I was to do it again I’d probably just go straight to welding the nuts to the head of the screws. Installed the bdx screws on reassembly, they came with blue loctite on them so I called that good enough.

Vern
How was it getting the primary cover off? I got my Speedwerx kit today and it looks awful tight in there to get the cover off to swap weights and spring

 

[turboless terry]

Vern
How was it getting the primary cover off? I got my Speedwerx kit today and it looks awful tight in there to get the cover off to swap weights and spring

I'll swap your weights if you swap my helix.

 

[dunatyk]

I'll swap your weights if you swap my helix.

Deal. The helix bolts just need finesse

 

[Vern]

Vern
How was it getting the primary cover off? I got my Speedwerx kit today and it looks awful tight in there to get the cover off to swap weights and spring

Not bad, primary spring and weights probably took all of 20 minutes to do. Cover is a bit tight getting out, but popping the few screws out of the lower plastic gives a bit more wiggle room. I wouldn’t say it’s much worse than getting the cover off of the team clutch in an ascender. Just an fyi, the little dowels/sleeves between the cover and moveable sheave around the bolts are not pressed in and come out pretty easy so maybe keep an eye on those.

 

[Super 8]

A little heat and the helix bolts pop right out, no damage.

 

[Vern]

I need to get me a good impact driver set up like that. I’m not proud of what I had to do to get mine apart, but had to work with what I had.

 

[PSI 800]

a bunch of heat and an impact driver usually breaks them loose

 

[joshkoltes]

A little heat and the helix bolts pop right out, no damage.
View attachment 429300

That's a nice kit. Both my kits only came with four bits per

 

[boondocker97]

That's a nice kit. Both my kits only came with four bits per

Same here. I've broken a few non-impact bits I've "adapted" to it.

A little heat and the helix bolts pop right out, no damage.
View attachment 429300

Mind sharing where you found this one Super 8?

 

[Chewy22]

Same here. I've broken a few non-impact bits I've "adapted" to it.



Mind sharing where you found this one Super 8?

This one looks the same:

Amazon.com

 

[dunatyk]

Have they changed the screw size on the Catalyst helix?

 

[MTN_VIPER]

Not sure if they changed it, but the screws are 6mm x 1.0 thread pitch counter sunk machine screws. Total length including the screw head was 16mm if I remember correctly.

 

[Super 8]

Same here. I've broken a few non-impact bits I've "adapted" to it.



Mind sharing where you found this one Super 8?

Chewy22 has has the link.

 

[favoritos]

A little heat and the helix bolts pop right out, no damage.
View attachment 429300

Ironic. I just bought that driver. Too bad it didn't come with the 4mm hex. It's hard to find that bit around here except as a socket. I used a socket bit with the driver and it worked fairly well.
I have no idea why they started using red loctite on the stock screws. I messed up one screw even with a lot of heat. The rest were fighting pretty hard so I ordered the driver.

I had ordered a set of replacement screws from an aftermarket vendor. They were stamped 10.9 and had the same 4mm hex. I figured there wasn't anything fancy about that screw and picked up a bunch from our local hardware store.

I cleaned out the red thread locker and went to blue with the new screws.

 

[turboless terry]

Deal. The helix bolts just need finesse

I'm an idiot for offering that. The secondary was so easy. Bolts were easy to get out. Drive clutch was the worst part. Getting cover back on sucked for a minute until I realized the little panel guard spins out of the way. Definitely not ideal to change belt.

 

[dunatyk]

I changed my Helix today and this was how I removed the screws with ruining them. With the secondary tool already through the clutch and tightened down I heated all the screws with a Map gas torch. Maybe like 10 seconds per screw then I rotated it 90 deg so I could push down on the ratchet instead of pulling on it and used my other hand to hold the ratchet straight with the bolt so it didn’t want pull out and twist. Then just keep slightly adding down pressure until they start to move. I will agree that these are def loctited in better than previous ones I have done. In the past I used to heat them then just take them out with my Milwaukee 1/2 impact. I tried that first and they would not budge. Hope this helps someone in the future. They key is just keeping pressure on it and keeping it straight