Did you try unhooking everything completely like I said!
Stop and do the easy chit first,
If its a off bottom bog it has nothing to do with the PV unless it has a short. It has to do with electrical or fuel, if it revs high enough to engage the clutch then it can be clutching but if not it is Electric or fuel.
You asked for the guru's, start listening to them.
Injector issues are very rare.
Stop and do the easy chit first,
If its a off bottom bog it has nothing to do with the PV unless it has a short. It has to do with electrical or fuel, if it revs high enough to engage the clutch then it can be clutching but if not it is Electric or fuel.
You asked for the guru's, start listening to them.
Injector issues are very rare.
D
dirtsnow
Member
Still no luck
Wyoboy1000... I just unplugged everything from the bars except the keyed ignition switch on the dash, just so I could turn it off.
I also fully cleaned the injectors last night by running throttle body cleaner through them followed by compressed air with them hooked up to 12V. They both appear to be functioning fine judging by the spray.
I completely unhooked the PCV and am just running of the stock ECU
The bog is still there
The bog also doesn't just happen at immediate full throttle. You can go to 2/3 to 3/4 throttle and it will bog out too but you have to do it quickly. If you don't do it fast enough it will rev up and act "fine". Also, its just from around idle. If you smack the throttle from over 2000 rpms, it won't hesitate like this.
Keep the ideas coming please!
Wyoboy1000... I just unplugged everything from the bars except the keyed ignition switch on the dash, just so I could turn it off.
I also fully cleaned the injectors last night by running throttle body cleaner through them followed by compressed air with them hooked up to 12V. They both appear to be functioning fine judging by the spray.
I completely unhooked the PCV and am just running of the stock ECU
The bog is still there
The bog also doesn't just happen at immediate full throttle. You can go to 2/3 to 3/4 throttle and it will bog out too but you have to do it quickly. If you don't do it fast enough it will rev up and act "fine". Also, its just from around idle. If you smack the throttle from over 2000 rpms, it won't hesitate like this.
Keep the ideas coming please!
J
jim
Well-known member
Set idle to 2000...that's where mine is at. Motor likes it...you get much better response too. Sounds to me like a fuel starving issue for one reason or another. The PVs open up immediately when you wack the throttle open...was told they are programmed to do so. They open up later with slow throttle. I'm also not a fan of the open airbox like BDX...makes things more boggy than the stock box. It's obvious is a mapping issue. Are all sensors OK? You getting any codes?
D
dirtsnow
Member
Jim, So your saying that when i wack the throttle at idle the PV's should open? Because I don't think mine are actuating until sometime after clutch engagment. I'm not worried about the Air box. I can map that bog out and there are plenty of people running them with success. I hate the weight of the stock air box and how it plugs up riding in deep powder so I'm ok w/ the air box. I just replaced the pipe temp sensor, so its new and there are no codes being thrown on the dash. I could set the idle at 2000, but then I think I'm ignoring an obvious problem.
So if at idle and you hit the throttle will it die, or bog then go, does it make a air sounded bog or a gurgle sound, does it ever drop to one cylinder. Give a little more info on how it bogs, like if you hit the throttle but not full throttle it dies but if you hit full throttle it bogs but goes. ???
1. What spark plugs are in the sled, give us the number,
2 whats the gap.
3 put on a new belt
4 make sure spark plug gaps are screwed on all the way, and inspect wires
5 is baro tube clear and not kinked
6 are all the clutch weights still centered and set screws tight, no damage
7 is primary spring good
8 unplug break wires by rotor.
does it get worse when its warmed up to normal temp
1. What spark plugs are in the sled, give us the number,
2 whats the gap.
3 put on a new belt
4 make sure spark plug gaps are screwed on all the way, and inspect wires
5 is baro tube clear and not kinked
6 are all the clutch weights still centered and set screws tight, no damage
7 is primary spring good
8 unplug break wires by rotor.
does it get worse when its warmed up to normal temp
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The cat laydown engine is very unlikely to have that happen, they are built heavy and the 1000 crank is massive for a sled, most engine shops don't even weld them because of how stout they are.
J
jim
Well-known member
I set my idle to 2000 because it got rid of the earth shaking vibration from 1800 or below and because it cleaned up throttle response. If the problem is refining your mapping, yes that is ignoring it. If new mapping go rid of most of it, than that is likely the issue. If it's something like WYO says, than that's good to fix too. All I'm saying is that if you can fix it by setting idle to 2000 and you think it's mapping, do it. Or you refine that glitch in the mapping. At the end of the day, none of us really know what's up...we are guessing. But if you say setting idle to 2k fixes it and there are no negative side affects, I'd go that route. Setting the motor to 2k idle keeps my fillings my teeth and it's got to be much better on the motor.
D
dirtsnow
Member
Plugs are Iridium NGK BR9EIX... they are equivalent to the BR9EYA plugs, just iridium. Gap is 0.030". This problem has nothing at all to do with clutching, its motor. Electrical, Fuel, or air.
I think i might start trying to play with certain cells in the PCV for each cylinder and see if can map it out myself. Nothing I have tried has worked so far, so this might be the route I have to go.
I don't want to set the idle high until i get this problem figured out. If it is an air leak or fuel problem, one cylinder will be running poorly and could cause the engine to fail.
I swapped sides on fuel injectors. I think i'm going to clean the plugs off and go ride it again for a few minutes and pull the plugs and see what i've got and if the cylinders are different. I need to verify that the cylinders are running different so I can troubleshoot one problem at a time.
The two problems i have are Bog off idle, and spark plugs are different from side to side.
I think i might start trying to play with certain cells in the PCV for each cylinder and see if can map it out myself. Nothing I have tried has worked so far, so this might be the route I have to go.
I don't want to set the idle high until i get this problem figured out. If it is an air leak or fuel problem, one cylinder will be running poorly and could cause the engine to fail.
I swapped sides on fuel injectors. I think i'm going to clean the plugs off and go ride it again for a few minutes and pull the plugs and see what i've got and if the cylinders are different. I need to verify that the cylinders are running different so I can troubleshoot one problem at a time.
The two problems i have are Bog off idle, and spark plugs are different from side to side.
I've seen a difference in plugs on stockers but try it and get some more pics to see if it changes.
I would put some stock plugs in, I can't remember but it seems like the gap should be a lot more than .30.
I have seen plugs cause this exact issue
and did you try the other stuff.
Check the 2 grounds also.
It also could be the TPS needs calibrated, done by the dealer.
I have asked specific questions and I need specific answers to help, the way you are throwing things out there and doing half of this and half of that makes it near impossible to know what the heII is going on.
I go for the easy cheap stuff first and rule out one thing at a time, if you don't want to do it that way thats fine,
I would put some stock plugs in, I can't remember but it seems like the gap should be a lot more than .30.
I have seen plugs cause this exact issue
and did you try the other stuff.
Check the 2 grounds also.
It also could be the TPS needs calibrated, done by the dealer.
I have asked specific questions and I need specific answers to help, the way you are throwing things out there and doing half of this and half of that makes it near impossible to know what the heII is going on.
I go for the easy cheap stuff first and rule out one thing at a time, if you don't want to do it that way thats fine,
D
dirtsnow
Member
WYO: .030" is right for the plugs. I'll get some BR9EYA plugs and put new ones it before i go ride it.. no sense fouling expensive plugs. The plug wires do have some wear in them from rubbing here and there, but nothing that looks horrible. Can you replace just the wire, or does the coil need to be replaced too. The sled never misfires or anything when running high RPM's so should i continue to dig into the Magneto/spark side of this equation? What is the best way to check spark on each plug?
I'll unplug the wires at the brake rotor tomorrow night (I'm at work now).
I need to get a IR thermometer and check the cylinders. I'll do that on wednesday.
Where are the two grounds? What exactly am I looking for with the grounds? Just that they are continuous and connected?
TPS Calibration: If by calibration you mean setting the high and low voltage, I can do that with the PCV and have done it. Didn't change anything obviously. Will the cat dealer do something different? If it was the TPS, then it would happen other places rather than just off idle, right?
The pressure tube on the ECM is just fine, pulled it off and blew air through it. Its not kinked in any way.
Don't know if i mentioned this before, but the bog is worse when its hot.
Thanks for all you help and suggestions. I really appreciate all of this.
I'll unplug the wires at the brake rotor tomorrow night (I'm at work now).
I need to get a IR thermometer and check the cylinders. I'll do that on wednesday.
Where are the two grounds? What exactly am I looking for with the grounds? Just that they are continuous and connected?
TPS Calibration: If by calibration you mean setting the high and low voltage, I can do that with the PCV and have done it. Didn't change anything obviously. Will the cat dealer do something different? If it was the TPS, then it would happen other places rather than just off idle, right?
The pressure tube on the ECM is just fine, pulled it off and blew air through it. Its not kinked in any way.
Don't know if i mentioned this before, but the bog is worse when its hot.
Thanks for all you help and suggestions. I really appreciate all of this.
The power valves wont open until 7200. That is when they are programed to open. You get better torque when the exhaust port is lower in the cylinder and better horse power when the exhaust port is higher in the cylinder. So, they cut a oval hole and plug the top half with a valve. When you get out of the max torque range and into the max HP range then the valve opens and in turn raises the exhaust port.
The grounds-- one is on the bottom front of one of the recoil bolts (brown wire) the other is on the steering loop bolt on the right side, inside the bulk head and is very hard to see (black). Just check to make sure they are tight and attached. If anyone ever tried to take off the steering loop they usually break them, the bolt on the steering loop goes through and runs into a nut sert to tighten them down, then they put the grounds on the threads sticking out on the inside and put a nut on that. So when you try to remove that bolt to move the steering loop it twists off the ground.
If the bog is worse when warm it usually means its a lean condition, when cold the sled/ecu runs rich like a choke to warm it up then once warm it cuts the extra fuel. The other way around would be a rich bog
The tps is adjusted with a special tool by the dealer only, don't touch it. But if all else fails you can have them check it to see if its calibrated right.
Does the bog always happen or is it usually after a WOT pull. Or just random whenever, I can easily tune that out but would like to know whats going on first.
When you tested fuel pressure did you use a quality gauge (oil filled)
You sprayed stuff at the crank seals, did you spray any at the throttle body boots, might be leaking there, inspect those.
Is the stock heat packing on the stock pipe.
If the bog is worse when warm it usually means its a lean condition, when cold the sled/ecu runs rich like a choke to warm it up then once warm it cuts the extra fuel. The other way around would be a rich bog
The tps is adjusted with a special tool by the dealer only, don't touch it. But if all else fails you can have them check it to see if its calibrated right.
Does the bog always happen or is it usually after a WOT pull. Or just random whenever, I can easily tune that out but would like to know whats going on first.
When you tested fuel pressure did you use a quality gauge (oil filled)
You sprayed stuff at the crank seals, did you spray any at the throttle body boots, might be leaking there, inspect those.
Is the stock heat packing on the stock pipe.
D
dirtsnow
Member
The one by the steering post is hooked up. Its on a different bolt than you about, but its hooked up. I'll check the other down by the recoil tomorrow night.
I'm pretty sure its a lean condition too... what i'm not sure about is if its in one cylinder or both.
The bog is always there.
When I tested fuel pressure i got a fuel pressure testing kit from Auto zone. The gauge was not fluid filled and the needle did bounce around a lot. When i revved it up it steadied out more and i tried to pick a pressure that was in the middle of where the needle was bouncing. It looked like an expensive kit (they had to charge $150 on my CC until I brought it back).
i did not spray any starting fluid on the throttle bodies.. do that tomorrow also
The stock pipe is all in tact with the insulation on it.
I'm pretty sure its a lean condition too... what i'm not sure about is if its in one cylinder or both.
The bog is always there.
When I tested fuel pressure i got a fuel pressure testing kit from Auto zone. The gauge was not fluid filled and the needle did bounce around a lot. When i revved it up it steadied out more and i tried to pick a pressure that was in the middle of where the needle was bouncing. It looked like an expensive kit (they had to charge $150 on my CC until I brought it back).
i did not spray any starting fluid on the throttle bodies.. do that tomorrow also
The stock pipe is all in tact with the insulation on it.
A
ARICH
Well-known member
Things i would check
Make sure your ecu symbol and injector symbols are the same.
Check to see if your intake boot has a hole in it
Check to see if your air intake temperature sensor (blue plug on intake) is plugged in and not shorted, cut or if the sensor itself is broke.
Check spark on each plug wire
and never rule out clutching!
Good luck
Make sure your ecu symbol and injector symbols are the same.
Check to see if your intake boot has a hole in it
Check to see if your air intake temperature sensor (blue plug on intake) is plugged in and not shorted, cut or if the sensor itself is broke.
Check spark on each plug wire
and never rule out clutching!
Good luck
D
dirtsnow
Member
Arich:
What do you mean Symbols? What symbols am I looking for? This sounds interesting
I'll check the intake boot again but i'm 99% sure its sealed up
The intake temp sensor is plugged in and hooked up. I cleaned it with electrical cleaner when installed the intake. How can I check it with a multi meter to see if its functioning fine?
Also, clutching is not the problem because it happens on the trailer in my garage and outside. I can make it bog and not even be moving.
What do you mean Symbols? What symbols am I looking for? This sounds interesting
I'll check the intake boot again but i'm 99% sure its sealed up
The intake temp sensor is plugged in and hooked up. I cleaned it with electrical cleaner when installed the intake. How can I check it with a multi meter to see if its functioning fine?
Also, clutching is not the problem because it happens on the trailer in my garage and outside. I can make it bog and not even be moving.
