I believe the only difference was the the Burandt boards are like a HD version of the stock boards. In different colors of course.
Burandt Boards
- Thread starter Spaarky
- Start date
Thanks for the tip. I have a 155 Assault RMK, not a SB, so there shouldn't be any issues.
You can use "Polaris" black rivets.
The "gold zinc" rivets are a high strength rivet... Ok to use a another if it is a high-strength rivet.
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I don't have first hand experience with the Burandt Boards, but I highly doubt the gold rivets are anything more than zinc chromate(prevents rust) coated steel rivets. Just use any steel rivets and you'll be fine. Stainless steel, although not quite as strong as steel, should be just fine as well.
As far as gluing them on, that's a lot of overkill for a marginal improvement. Not worth the mess. And it won't be fun if you ever bend one up and need to replace it.
As far as gluing them on, that's a lot of overkill for a marginal improvement. Not worth the mess. And it won't be fun if you ever bend one up and need to replace it.
Eric,
There is a black rivet available from PI that will replace the 7661637. It was used to rivet the black bulkheads together. I'll post the part number.
I can't confirm the case question.
Edit: I will physically check but think they were 7661638
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Thanks for that info TRS!
I've bonded mine with the lords adhesive... It was very straight forward BUT... you have to be swift and lay out all of your items... do a dry fit practice run so that you know everything fits... plus... tape off the tunnel-side. Don't use too much adhesive and you won't have too much squeeze-out.
Bond, rivet, pull tape, and clean up with denatured alcohol all within a 2-3 minutes.
I feel it adds buckle-resistance to the weak area of the tunnel.
Is it overkill... probably... but I had the adhesive, and like the extra measure.
I did have to remove one side when I damaged the board (don't ask).... heat gun and a couple of wedges and it came right off.
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I've bonded mine with the lords adhesive... It was very straight forward BUT... you have to be swift and lay out all of your items... do a dry fit practice run so that you know everything fits... plus... tape off the tunnel-side. Don't use too much adhesive and you won't have too much squeeze-out.
Bond, rivet, pull tape, and clean up with denatured alcohol all within a 2-3 minutes.
I feel it adds buckle-resistance to the weak area of the tunnel.
Is it overkill... probably... but I had the adhesive, and like the extra measure.
I did have to remove one side when I damaged the board (don't ask).... heat gun and a couple of wedges and it came right off.
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S
Spaarky
Well-known member
I am going to need a hand. Only one other thing I can do in 2-3 mins....
I might bond them. Make me feel better.
Other question is, there is 3 spots on the boards that are not predrilled, that could potentially have rivets. Has anyone gone to the work of drilling those out and installed rivets. I think the part that concerns me would be a nice counter sink that looks factory.
I am going to need a hand. Only one other thing I can do in 2-3 mins....
I might bond them. Make me feel better.
Other question is, there is 3 spots on the boards that are not predrilled, that could potentially have rivets. Has anyone gone to the work of drilling those out and installed rivets. I think the part that concerns me would be a nice counter sink that looks factory.
In Sportserdanne's NyPRO build thread he did exactly that; for a visual and for reference check post #209 here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348197
Granted the dimensions are in the metric equivalent, as he is in Sweden.
The extra rivets are a good idea as is the bonding even as anal as I am over every gram.
That said, If bonded I wold be comfortable even using cheap aluminum hardware store variety pop rivets as you will only really need them long enough to hold a consistant gap and position for the adhesive to kick.
That is my approach to my builds with the Carbon Fiber tunnel sides and center sections as well. FWIW
Not sure about you guys, but when I did mine, the aluminum was flying everywhere when cutting(I used a die Grinder), so make sure you cover the engine compartment with something so all that sh!t doesn't wind up in your motor.
I think mountianhorse did this, maybe send him a PM.
On my builds I use a hard template that I secure with small countersunk screws, thru the rivet locations, (hard template above the bend). Then I use a router with a good carbide following bit and with the router underneath (unless the sled is liquid free and invert able) follow my hard template. That is the cleanest way to get professional results. You guys with stock sleds will fight the rear suspension drop bracket though, you would have to finish that few inches by hand. I run the EZ-Ryde so there is nothing below the board for me.
FWIW
FWIW
