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Breaking in motor

KK..soo this is a question that ive hear 2 diff opinion's on..do u break in a motor the way ur gonna use to...or slowly break it in taking it easy on the sled...not opening it up and holding it??...or put it too the bar and rip???????
 
Of course, no synthetic, but aside from that, ride it throughout the rpm band, but the most important this is not to hold rpms very long. Also, warm, let it cool, warm, let it cool, repeat this a couple of times, and be very cautious of getting engine temps up before turning it hard! Did this with mine, she's been bulletproot!(knock on wood!)
 
broke in every sled but 1 i have ever owned the same , get a few miles on it and line um up and run the 500-800 feet several times---the only exceptions was my 08 X and the motor blew at 200 miles and i broke that in easy as everyone suggested---my 09 has 25 miles and 10 have been racing it , we'll see--everything i own i break in like i'm going to run it---
 
You want to start with a good oil....Weather the motor is new or old the 1st few pulls of the rope in the morning isn't to pretty if for any cylinder or piston.

With that said, i believe in a long warm ups....start your sled and than get dressed for riding and ride the heck out of it, it isn't going to break.

I would be more concerned about breaking in a new belt rather than breaking in the motor.

OT
 
i believe in beating the **** out of it right from the start. i've had some real fast sleds that would pull away from the identicle sled. and have had minimal engine trouble.
 
I do about 6 short heat cycles on a new engine. (maybe 5-8 min and then cool off) Then I ride them the way Im going to ride. One factor is heat for the first 200 miles or so DONT over heat the engine on a long pull just turn out or let off. Once the engine is broke in all you need is a warm up and then let it rip.
 
As above, no constant RPMs, too much heat at 1/4 throttle across the field doing the "easy breakin",,, do some hard pulls to put some heat and pressure on the rings so they seat better, but I never hold at WOT for more than 5s for first tank,,, I don't premix, I do warm up a bit (not much, no extended idling) and then only use 1/2 throttle for first 5 minutes in the field,,,

Edit, there's no way I could ever follow the (wrong IMO) rule of no more than 1/2 throttle for 200 miles,, there's just too much fun doing a few shot WOT on a new sled,,, puts a grin on my face every time ;) PLus on the flat land at home, I can't hold it WOT very long anyway,, I'll end up broke up in a wreck,,, I have to wait for a trip to the hills for the long pulls anyway.
 
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Yep.... break them in like you stole em... 5 miles,,, & then open em up... yaaaa hoooo.. :beer; :D
 
k was just wondering..cuz on my first rebuild i really babied the sled..and it blew up another 1000km's down the trail...second motor i let it warm up good..shut it off..then warm up again...i did aprox 10 miles of going threw the happy leaver...then i ligned myself up on the lake and held her wide open for about 10-15 seconds then let of too about 3/4 then back too the bar again..did this about 10-20 times in 1 day....i have now aprox 1800 km's on the new engine and not even so much as blown plug
 
pin it

pull as many wheelies in to top end as you can before the cops come then run it fast. everything seats better. what are you starting with new motor in old sled or warrantied motor in new sled? its good to whack the throttle on a new sled cause its covered, always a little nervous on rebuilds but i still do the same gives you a feeling of power droppin in your fresh rebuild you did youself, idleing out the garage and standin it right up
 
Of course, no synthetic, but aside from that, ride it throughout the rpm band, but the most important this is not to hold rpms very long. Also, warm, let it cool, warm, let it cool, repeat this a couple of times, and be very cautious of getting engine temps up before turning it hard! Did this with mine, she's been bulletproot!(knock on wood!)

You can use synthetic, or whatever oil you want. The quality of the newer oils is far superior to the old ones and there is no risk of seal degradation with synthetic. Many manufacturers send them from the factory now with synthetic in the tank.

As an FYI, Dodge specs only synthetic oil in the Viper, including for break-in.
 
On my 08 xp, I tried to break it in slowly, but the snow was too deep, so I had to hold it to the bar a few times. :D

I believe Ski DOO has a semi built in break in program into their computer. My sled was a totallu different sled after i put on about 75-10 miles on it. IMO I have heard this from others as well, so maybe it's true. Dunno.

Like everyone is saying... There's two different answers to this question and both people think they're correct.
 
most important in my opinion, do what the manufacturer/dealer reccomends. I believe they can hook up into the computer and see exactly what RPM's you have been running, so if they have told you to break it in easy, and you go out and pin it, blow and engine, they can void the warranty if they want to be dicks. Not 100% on snowmobiles, but on my sea-doo, I spent a day with the mechanic leanring some things, and this was one of the things he told me, he can hook into my sea-doo computer, and see exactly what RPM's, overheating, and how I was running the machine, I believe its the same with snowmobiles.
 
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