Break-in
- Thread starter geo
- Start date
A
aebsledder
Well-known member
I followed the manufacturers instructions on break in. No long periods of WOT through the first tank of premix or whatever it is. Then I broke a cylinder skirt at around 1600 miles and got a new engine last year. Now I bought an extended warranty since it is cheaper than a new sled and hope to ride it another season or two. We will see what happens.
G
geo
Well-known member
There is basically two ways to break in a sled. The owners manual and Mototune (or your variation). In other words, ride it like you race it or ease it into life.
I, m hoping for more miles-of-life info compared to break in method. Is there a difference with the Pro?
I break in at a smokey 30 to 1 premix and injection and will probably max out the pump on the Pro before riding too (just from what I read here).
One way I look at it is I would rather deal with too much oil than find out after a few rides I don't have enough.
I run a semi-synthetic I have had good luck with for years and it needs a lower ratio than some of the synthetics. Polaris Gold may be fine at the ratios set from the factory I just don't have any experience with it.
IMO ring seal is the difference between a "good one" and another. Especially in a 2 stroke. If you get all the primary and secondary compression a engine was designed for you have a good one.
I like the lower ratios of a semi synthetic because oil helps seal rings. Mototune method and the narrow window of opportunity to seat the rings may not apply 100% to a 2 stroke because of the oil variable. 2 strks run more oil to help and 4strks don't.
I also think lol, there is more than just rings to a 2strk. So I like to do 2 or 3 high heat cycles in the shop. According to Mototune I already am at a disadvantage and ring seal will take a long time. I don't agree with that a 100%.
To load my motor for the first couple of rides I use my clutch. I install an old hard belt to help break in the sheaves and put flat land clutching in the secondary (big helix heavy spring).
This lets me use lots of thumb which puts pressure onto the rings. It also puts lots of fuel and oil into the cylinders.
I, m hoping for more miles-of-life info compared to break in method. Is there a difference with the Pro?
I break in at a smokey 30 to 1 premix and injection and will probably max out the pump on the Pro before riding too (just from what I read here).
One way I look at it is I would rather deal with too much oil than find out after a few rides I don't have enough.
I run a semi-synthetic I have had good luck with for years and it needs a lower ratio than some of the synthetics. Polaris Gold may be fine at the ratios set from the factory I just don't have any experience with it.
IMO ring seal is the difference between a "good one" and another. Especially in a 2 stroke. If you get all the primary and secondary compression a engine was designed for you have a good one.
I like the lower ratios of a semi synthetic because oil helps seal rings. Mototune method and the narrow window of opportunity to seat the rings may not apply 100% to a 2 stroke because of the oil variable. 2 strks run more oil to help and 4strks don't.
I also think lol, there is more than just rings to a 2strk. So I like to do 2 or 3 high heat cycles in the shop. According to Mototune I already am at a disadvantage and ring seal will take a long time. I don't agree with that a 100%.
To load my motor for the first couple of rides I use my clutch. I install an old hard belt to help break in the sheaves and put flat land clutching in the secondary (big helix heavy spring).
This lets me use lots of thumb which puts pressure onto the rings. It also puts lots of fuel and oil into the cylinders.
Any ideas on a way to load the motor while it's on a stand?...
I'm already in the flatlands so sea level clutching isn't going to put a heavy load on it...
my sled might not even see snow until early Jan if MN is like last year
On a stand, NO. before it snows, Yes. It requires a Lake and a boat dock
Figure out a way to hang the sled so the track is in the water. The water is your load, and cooling. Run it as long as you like. Eric
Pickin the sled up possibly tomorrow I know about putting polaris blue in the gas tank do I want to run 1 tank of blue in the injection to for break in? Or is gold fine there and just add the blue in the gas?
last year the dealer already had my tank filled with gold..
last year the dealer already had my tank filled with gold..
Mototune all the way. I have broken in 6 new engines in the last 2 seasons and did them all the Mototune way. Exactly as he described in the article. Didn't even start them before we broke them in. No heat cycles at all. Warmed them up to operating temps and did the break in. Very nervous the first year but I have had 6 very strong engines, they all have run really well compared to others of the same make and year. The Pro engine had extra non-synthetic Polaris oil in the tank from the dealer. I didn't do the oil pump adjustment. My Pros used very little oil over the season, maybe a third of what my XPs used.
i ride mine like i stole them and i got 2600 miles out of a motor...pinning it since day 1!
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
That's not possible. Everyone on this site knows that the Polaris 800 engine is crap, and will blow up within the first 1000 miles! Come on dude read the internet... ya know where the truth lives.
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ACMtnCat
Well-known member
BULL FUC 2,600 miles out a motor? I only got 6,000 out of my first set of pistons... You got lucky or something.
That's not possible. Everyone on this site knows that the Polaris 800 engine is crap, and will blow up within the first 1000 miles! Come on dude read the internet... ya know where the truth lives.
I've got 3000 miles on an '09 dragon 800. Never had any work done to it. Only problem was a voltage regulator last season. Has had a slp pipe on it from day 1. You can't always believe everything you read on the internet. My break in on my '13 will be same as every other sled I've had... Premix in the 1st tank and ride it like you stole it. Avoid long wot pulls first couple rides.
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I agree. I was being sarcastic! LOL
Was thinking about break in and cylinder pressures last night. Here's my question.
If there is less oxygen at higher elevation vs low, could a person at say 1000ft have a better ring seal than a person running at say 6000ft due to more oxygen/power/cylinder pressure out of the same motor? Or is my thinking flawed? Assume both motors are broken in the same...
If there is less oxygen at higher elevation vs low, could a person at say 1000ft have a better ring seal than a person running at say 6000ft due to more oxygen/power/cylinder pressure out of the same motor? Or is my thinking flawed? Assume both motors are broken in the same...
oh my gawd, you bought a Pro
me too.I've broken in my last 7 sleds the mototune way with excellent results. I will continue to break in my cars, motorcycles, and sleds this way for life. it flat works.
I've had excellent "luck" in always having a sled that ran a little "stronger" than most, i attribute it to the mototune method. It's just logically.
R
R_8_N
Well-known member
When we built a few watercraft 1200s a few years back we had to time them at 8000 rpm. brand new engine and ran them all up to 8000 and every one of those engines ran very very hard for 3-4 years with not one engine failure. I see some truth to the mototune way. Break it in like youre gonna ride it!
G
geo
Well-known member
So anyone break in the owners manual way and get long life lol? Is Poo trying to keep their warranty department employees busy so they keep their jobs lol?
I'm being sarcastic obviously. I have seen the benefits of liberal throttle (more importantly load) during the first few rides for many decades. Engines that are hand assembled to blueprint standards for racing are broken in at the track and torn apart after to be sure. Engines designed to work for a living are broken in at full load on a dyno before installing in a frame.
Why do all manufacturers still recommend oddles of time at part throttle use for there products. Yam, Doo, Cat, Pol. 4strks have rediculous recommended break-in periods. I mean years for some people lol.
What do they see here we don't?
The Suzuki 800, maybe the best engine ever in a sled with a good track record for warranty claims. AC is requiring 2 complete heat cycles at PDI before the customer gets the sled. Make sure the oil pump is bled?
I'm being sarcastic obviously. I have seen the benefits of liberal throttle (more importantly load) during the first few rides for many decades. Engines that are hand assembled to blueprint standards for racing are broken in at the track and torn apart after to be sure. Engines designed to work for a living are broken in at full load on a dyno before installing in a frame.
Why do all manufacturers still recommend oddles of time at part throttle use for there products. Yam, Doo, Cat, Pol. 4strks have rediculous recommended break-in periods. I mean years for some people lol.
What do they see here we don't?
The Suzuki 800, maybe the best engine ever in a sled with a good track record for warranty claims. AC is requiring 2 complete heat cycles at PDI before the customer gets the sled. Make sure the oil pump is bled?
