Boosted PV's..I KNOW Right!

[TooDeepTodd]

Look, before we start the bashing...YES I have used the search function and read every F*&^%ing thread about Power Valves and delete kits and so on and so forth and Blah Blah Blah...

Here is my problem, last ride I got a CPU06 code and she ran like chit. 06..PV failure right. Not knowing that much about the PV's I figured get new cables and adust etc. etc and should be fine....stupid. Fired her up and still get the wrench and 06 code. Ran it on the stand tonight and servo did not move at all pinning and letting off and pinning. Soon as it gets to upper mid RPMS runs like chit. SO, must be one of 3 things...right? Bad Servo, faulty CCU or faulty ECU.
1) How do I test to see which it is?
2) Supposed to leave Sunday AM for Sicamous...no way I am gonna get ANY of these parts at my dealer (already checked) before mid next week. SO, is there a way I can pin 'em open for the trip and just lose some bottom end? If so, how do I keep the ol' girl out of limp mode AND will my fuel use be SOOO bad that I wont be able to party with the other kids?

Set-Up-
'08 M1000 with every mod know to man (except PV delete ) including Twisted RG Turbo.

Any help diagnosing or circumventing is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[M1000Mod162]

t

Unfortunately your prolly screwed you could try to open them up but the efi would still be in limp mode I believe with out intstalling the electronic box they send with valve delete kits to trick ecu into think all is fine! Good luck

 

[harf69]

Ive got to believe u could overnight parts. Or like stated get a chip then just zip tie the servo motor in the the open position with the cables hooked up

 

[dogtownbutcher]

hey todd, have you tried cleaning them? like taking a razor blade and scraping the crap outta them... just a thought.. good luck bud

 

[WyoBoy1000]

disconnect everything to the handle bars and brake light at the rotor and see if that helps, sometimes hand warmers and brake light wires can cause it to quit. If you try and power anything off the brake light circuit it will do it to.

 

[TooDeepTodd]

So Far..

Thanks WYO, gonna try that in..um...2 more steps. A little confused about disconnecting hand warmers at the "rotor" though? Either way, I have tested the Servo and it operates both directions with voltage, tested the ohms ratio from open to close and seems to be within tolerances. Hooked up a battery with the valves in and they open and close SO definitely in the system before the servo.
Gonna start working my way back tonight after work. first step..check voltage in the yellow where it plugs into servo. if power then yellow with red/black to see if it completes a circuit at low RPM then yellow to Black/red to see if it completes circuit at high RPM. Guessing at least 1 of those tests will fail (it has to right?) Then I am going to insert your thoughts about the brake light and hand warmer circuits (just so happens I DO have a hand warmer that isnt working so maybe a short there) that would be good news cause I really don't want to make it all the way back to the $1500.00 ECU.

 

[m8lovin]

I dont know what your riding shedule is like when you up here but in salmon arm. There is a very good cat dealer that has alot of parts in stock. Its called shuswap xtreme recreation. Talk to dustin or rory they are great guys. Hope you get it figured!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You disconnect the brake light at the rotor. Pull the heat shield on the steering loop and disconnect everything going to the handle bars, that will eliminate the hand warmers or any other problems that may be in the bars wiring. Also check for water in plug connections (all plugs even ecu)

Check ground wires, there is one that attached to the bolt on the steering loop right side, inside the bulk head, it is very hard to see. There is another on attached to the lower front of the pull cord recoil housing.

Check the fuse to, just because.

If you don't find something in all that I would point to the wiring harness as a problem.

 

[snow-seeker]

talk to the guys at shuswap extreme http://www.shuswapxtreme.com/

They are very close to sicamous and if anyone can help you out locally it would be them.

 

[TooDeepTodd]

Think Soooooo?

Thanks guys...good replies. Think we found it today. After about eight hours of testing chit and trying different things I decided to get started on removing the tank. Cowling came off first and I wiped down some stuff around the footwells. Process interrupted by our stud dealer who had a test he wanted me to run and a question about the error codes. Fired it up to get the answer and...BANG it all worked, no codes, servo opened at 6000, PV's cranked open, boost lights came on and she was screemin right there on the stand. I was shocked, there was a small crack in the wire to the Reverse sensor switch causing the ECU to think it was always in reverse hence no PV's & no Servo.

Decided to completely remove reverse for the weekend and in theory it SHOULD work fine...flooded it out before I had to go to work so I don't know for sure but all signs point to this being the problem. Sure wish the ECU was smart enough to say "HEY...dipchit, the problem is in the brakes not the power valves. Don't listen to my codes...that's not what it is". Anyway, thanks and I'll give you a final update after the ride.

On a side note....HUGE thanks to Doug at Feil Motorsports in Wenatchee. This guy put up with me calling him nonstop for 2 fricking days and even answered his cell when the shop was closed...THAT is SERVICE. After 20+ calls I'm sure he's sick of me but definately an A+ dealer.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Forgot about that one, good dealers are what its all about.