Boy they sure are raping you on the poo oil. VES is $35 here which is still too high for what it is.
Blue Marble--synthetic or mineral base?
- Thread starter magician
- Start date
Boy they sure are raping you on the poo oil. VES is $35 here which is still too high for what it is.
Yes, exactly, why do you use it for what you do and why not in the sled.....curious?
Wow, I pay $25 a gallon, or $20 if you bring your own container. Cheaper than any dealer's oil around here.
Yup. I was in Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire) last night and it's 16 something a gallon.
As for the guy making the comment about seeing crosshatch in the cylinders, you better do some reading up on why the crosshatch is there. He's got another problem is the compression is low.
M
modsledr
Well-known member
Any chance you've had him test the Legend ZX2R 2 stroke oil? http://www.legendperformance.com/products_zx2r.asp
It is one of the few oils that meets all of the national standards (most only meet 1 or 2) NMMA (formerly BIA) TCW3, ISO-L-EGB and JASO FB. $30/gal.
thanks,
modsledr
I have an old deisel truck(1984) they don't like the low sulfur deisel, need more lube for the injection pump. 2 stroke oil mixed in the fuel (1oz/gallon) gives enough lube without causing any other issues.
Why I don't use BM in my sleds? Cause its no better than $8/gallon Walmart oil and no corrosion inhibitors. Thats a big one for sleds.
Additives
The additive package in Blue Marble prevents surfaces from oxidizing after treatment with it and therefore would be a corrosion inhibitor. The Mobil engineer would certainly recognize this area. Mobil One is the best example of a synthetic oil with the properties of inhibiting cold engine parts oxidation. Not all synthetic oils have this property!
The additive package in Blue Marble prevents surfaces from oxidizing after treatment with it and therefore would be a corrosion inhibitor. The Mobil engineer would certainly recognize this area. Mobil One is the best example of a synthetic oil with the properties of inhibiting cold engine parts oxidation. Not all synthetic oils have this property!
Maybe so, but since my current sled has been run on BM since way before I got it I'll just stick to it. I'd like to know where guys are getting the Poo "Blue" for $20-25 a gallon, I know where I bought it last had a fair mark up but I figured $30 at best for the stuff. FWIW, I paid $32.95 a gallon last year for BM and $35.95 this year... no matter what way you cut the mustard most of us take it up the rear on sled oil, even at $20 a gallon.
I have had great luck with the BM. Have seen no corrosion that others talk about and do have less smoke. I am very happy and the O.E. oils around here are about $39/gal as opposed to $32/gal.
B
Bull
Well-known member
gotta chuckle at the concern in 2,3,4 dollars a gallon difference being the deciding factor in what oil guys choose........one of the cheapest parts of your sled, whatever the cost.......and one of the most important. with 2 sleds, i usually end up using 5 gal or less for a season. i had a long talk with the mobil engineer....all these claims about "molecular bonding", etc....are somewhat dubious. just like the fram oil filter man says.........pay me now, or pay me later.
L
LSB
Well-known member
another question for Dan... Good read by the way. Are you mainly against the Amsoil products because of a lack of lubrication they deliver or corrosion inhibitors or what. And if so what about the dominator series?
In my mod sled Ive always run the Interceptor mainly because the guy who built the engine before me ran that. But just recently I moved to dominator for 2 reasons. 1) I dont even have powervalves and 2) If there was more lube to be had from the Dominator then good. Now in my Tundra I have been running the Castrol oil. Its a blue oil in a white bottle. It does smoke a little more I think but its cheap and I definitely wouldnt mind running it in everything IF it worked. I guess Im just nervous to make the switch to the Castrol mineral oil after I have had such good luck with the Amsoil up until now.
Edit: Oh and in my mod I do the premixing myself, so no oil pump if that changes anything for you.
In my mod sled Ive always run the Interceptor mainly because the guy who built the engine before me ran that. But just recently I moved to dominator for 2 reasons. 1) I dont even have powervalves and 2) If there was more lube to be had from the Dominator then good. Now in my Tundra I have been running the Castrol oil. Its a blue oil in a white bottle. It does smoke a little more I think but its cheap and I definitely wouldnt mind running it in everything IF it worked. I guess Im just nervous to make the switch to the Castrol mineral oil after I have had such good luck with the Amsoil up until now.
Edit: Oh and in my mod I do the premixing myself, so no oil pump if that changes anything for you.
Why does Mobil not make a snowmobile oil?
i just dumped some blue marble in my sled for the first time....
S
sledsurfer
Member
here's a pretty detailed article on Blue Marble:
http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253172
http://snowmobile.off-road.com/snowmobile/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=253172
I have used about every oil under the sun and on multiple sleds. Here are my opinions
Klotz is by far the worst oil ever. It smells great but leaves your valves and pistons full of carbon deposits.
Polaris VES Gold is a great oil, but lets be honest, its way too expensive.
Ski doo fully synthetic falls in line with polaris VES gold...
Phillips 66 sells a synjex oil that i really liked. It was super cheap and with 1 oz of ER (energy release) added to a quart of oil, i had super clean valves. More smoke from this oil though
Torco full synthetic was a great oil and i would go back to it if i had to.
76 makes polaris blue oil and you can buy it alot cheaper in bulk from your local 76 gas station. Did leave carbon residue on the valves though.
Red line has something in it that makes me dizzy and want to throw up.
Amsoil - ran the dominator on my bike, liked it, however i have seen more sleds burn down running amsoil than anything else.
Blue marble - valves are super clean, low smoke, and no smell. Been with it the last 2 seasons and probably will never go back to anything else
use whatever you want, this is just my experience with the oils i have used.
Oh and for those that really want to know, yes i run blue marble oil on my turbo 2 stroke... valves and pistons look great after 460 miles...
Klotz is by far the worst oil ever. It smells great but leaves your valves and pistons full of carbon deposits.
Polaris VES Gold is a great oil, but lets be honest, its way too expensive.
Ski doo fully synthetic falls in line with polaris VES gold...
Phillips 66 sells a synjex oil that i really liked. It was super cheap and with 1 oz of ER (energy release) added to a quart of oil, i had super clean valves. More smoke from this oil though
Torco full synthetic was a great oil and i would go back to it if i had to.
76 makes polaris blue oil and you can buy it alot cheaper in bulk from your local 76 gas station. Did leave carbon residue on the valves though.
Red line has something in it that makes me dizzy and want to throw up.
Amsoil - ran the dominator on my bike, liked it, however i have seen more sleds burn down running amsoil than anything else.
Blue marble - valves are super clean, low smoke, and no smell. Been with it the last 2 seasons and probably will never go back to anything else
use whatever you want, this is just my experience with the oils i have used.
Oh and for those that really want to know, yes i run blue marble oil on my turbo 2 stroke... valves and pistons look great after 460 miles...
I've tried most of the oils you listed except blue marble, I never bought the hype. I run Torco full syn ($32 gal) and notice all the same things you listed for BM, but it also pours easily in cold temps...which is important in alaska. To each his own, but I still doubt a dino oil will be better than synthetic.
