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Best nitrous kit to buy

Never had any problem with bottle temperature. In my Rev it's right next to the can and haven't seemed to need a heater for it. As far as having a fuel pressure and NO2 gauge, it isn't really required but will give you more consistent results and aids in tuning.

True, dry kits don't have some of these additional parts but dry kits also aren't as consistent (and that's just the main reason). There might be a few more parts like hoses, wires, solenoids, and relays than are on dry kits but thats what you get with a more finely tuned, more adjustable, standalone kit.

The true problem is this.... Why then, with all the extra parts of your standard wet kit, is the price so comparable to that of a dry kit?!?! What exactly costs so much in a dry kit to make them so outrageously priced?

I've got my Rev set up for premix therefore I tapped my nitrous system fuel pump into my oil tank (now set up as a fuel tank) so every time I hit the button it's getting an extra special shot of 118 octane fuel. In turn, I don't have to run as much octane in my regular fuel tank to make up for the nitrous hits. I guess that's one thing you can't do with a dry kit.
 
Not bashing any wet system as they do put out some more power but this is the reason most guys stay away

By the time you get all your lines and crap in there it looks like a hydraulic system off a track-hoe with all the fittings, wires and lines and such.

Those items I added were not needed, anyone who know's me know's how anal retentive I can be. Will the system work without it, sure it will and work damn good too! I just like to know what's going on with the fuel pressure. I also have a custom mesh hood and have very little underhood heat to keep the bottle temp up. Why did I do all the extra's because I can.....................IMHO if your going to install a nitrous kit go all the way and install wet kit. I have heard very little good about the Boss kit and I mean very little good, I have ridden with a Boondocker kit, yeah it worked but at times was frozen up. The hit with a wet system is worth every minute of the extra work to install. IMO
 
Snow JW - just for the record I am not trying to start a pi$$in match at all, most all the kits work well, heck a guy could even piece meal one together if he knew what he was doin' and it could work well too! Both systems have there pros and cons.......
 
The true problem is this.... Why then, with all the extra parts of your standard wet kit, is the price so comparable to that of a dry kit?!?! What exactly costs so much in a dry kit to make them so outrageously priced?

Well I disagree with you on the new BD systems and even Boss nt being consistent with the regulator there is no way they can't be as around 300PSI bottle psi it would dang near be impossible to get the bottle cold enough to lower the HP hit.

As far as price on these new EFI systems it's a whole new world with the Synergy kits you can crank it up and down without having to retune it. You can program it to come on only at WOT on the TPS sensor or you can use it with a turbo to say only use nitrous at WOT and between 5000rpm and 6000rpm or set it up so it only comes on when your R's drop below say 8000 and then it will kick up the RPM's.

Summit not a problem I understand it's a forum lots of guys just like different things. I just know that for 90% of the boondocking guys the BD systems work great. Never heard of a newer system freezing up maybe they had problems when they first came out but not on these new ones if placed in the right spots. I have used WET it works great but on a long pull you need a bottle heater as the bottle temps drop fast and there is lines as crap everwere. I'm just spoiled with these new systems is all now :D
 
I ran a Boss Noss system all last season. The installation was simple. Keeping the thing going was not so simple. The Boss system works well, but only after you iron out the bugs. (This is on a EFI M7). The battery box is not water proof, so you have to protect your batteries and dry the box out after each ride (or make some other improvement of like nature). The harnesses are not long enough to mount your components in useable places. And of course, you want to keep your control box batteries fresh. Nothing is worse than needing the power and nobody is home.
But, I did not notice much performance decrease with a nearly empty bottle. The N2O is sprayed directly into the throttle bodies, not the air box. In fact, I ran the bottle out during one run, and just sort of felt it fade. Fortunately, I have had only minimal dealings with Boss's customer support.
One other thing that the Boss EFI system does not have is a fail safe in the event that the trigger wire to the N2O control box does not provide the signal to the control box (ie the white wire gets cut) So you want to check the operation of the system frequently without any N2O supplied (turn the bottle off and hit the button--sled bogs). Other than that it works real well.
 
I have a BD 40 Hp shot on my 08 XP, the only drawback is that I have to mix a little race gas if I polan on using the button, ( which is always). Damn Knock Sensors.
 
im confused with everyone saying that the boondocker is a dry system...

if i remember correctly the float bowls are pressurized when the button is hit and more fuel is injected through the carbs...

at least thats what is claimed
 
Not to hijack, but what's the cost of a bottle refill and where (east Idaho)? I've seen the refill station at BD. Any place outside of IF?
 
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im confused with everyone saying that the boondocker is a dry system...

if i remember correctly the float bowls are pressurized when the button is hit and more fuel is injected through the carbs...

at least thats what is claimed

Exactly right. I just installed a BD kit and it uses bottle pressure to pressurize the float bowls to push more fuel into the carb. Just used it for the first time today. Not impressed yet, just running a 30 shot so far and didnt get the kick in the shorts i was expecting:( Gonna give it another try w/some more tuning next time.
 
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