"Best all around Bike?" 2013 Build Project
- Thread starter mtn-doo
- Start date
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mxracer299
Well-known member
Im running a hand brake, sounds like you don't have a very good bleed on it or you're getting snow packed in the caliper. The brakes are OK on theses, but don't expect the performance that you have with the wheels on. Keeping the snow out of the caliper is one reason I built a front tunnel for mine, you can also make a shield out of a mudflap or plastic and attach it to the frame rails.
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jeffc
New member
My dealer said that the caliper size or reservoir or something rather is smaller this year on the ktm 450sx and that the timbersled brake line isn't allowing as much braking fluid to the new ktm reduced piston size???
Sounds like if someone is interested in the strongest braking power to use the front braided ktm brake line and tie that to the foot brake directly to the timbersled and running the longer timbersled brake to the hand is the best option so it looks like on my ktm a dual brake system will be more suitable for my tastes.
Sounds like if someone is interested in the strongest braking power to use the front braided ktm brake line and tie that to the foot brake directly to the timbersled and running the longer timbersled brake to the hand is the best option so it looks like on my ktm a dual brake system will be more suitable for my tastes.
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mtn-doo
Well-known member
Hand break only. They need a good bleed then may need some exercise to get good and stiff. Once done they work good. When you grab a handful sometimes it feels "dead" or not effective. That is usually the disk and caliper iced up. If you anticipate a big drop coming up, lightly drag your brake a few times. Then it's firm and ice free.
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mtn-doo
Well-known member
13/17, 16/17
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Rush44
Well-known member
There is always an open invitation to ANYONE who wants to come ride with us down here in the promised land. You should head over to McCall for the Flashpoint Snowbike Races and ride with us and Timbersled all week. It's going to be a blast and great riding with great people. Hell, I might even race the LT!
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mtn-doo
Well-known member
Ha! 
Ya Chris, Corey said February... That's good timing though. Will be fun. I will probably intro it and post all the testing progress on a separate thread. The SXF with basic mod's is working awesome. I am very happy. Fill it with gas, push the button, and ride,ride,ride... Very nice bike
Ya Chris, Corey said February... That's good timing though. Will be fun. I will probably intro it and post all the testing progress on a separate thread. The SXF with basic mod's is working awesome. I am very happy. Fill it with gas, push the button, and ride,ride,ride... Very nice bike
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Rush44
Well-known member
So I finally received my new rails, drivers, long track, and flex arm this week after being on back order for a while. A buddy helped me put everything together from the ST and it took us about 3 hours total wrench time with some good air tools to swap everything out. I was able to go out and test the difference on the SX-F this weekend.
Holy. Freaking. Hell. What an AMAZING upgrade. I've rode long tracks before and I know how well they work, but when you take the machine you know and do a week to week upgrade it just really shows how big of an improvement something can be. I was tearing up climbs that were simply not even in the cards on the ST this weekend. I will also echo the sentiment that the LT's, with the right bike, are actually easier on the motors. I don't have to rev the piss out of the bike as much anymore and the tractor-ability of the LT is insane. I am kicking myself for not doing the LT upgrade last year. Wow!
Holy. Freaking. Hell. What an AMAZING upgrade. I've rode long tracks before and I know how well they work, but when you take the machine you know and do a week to week upgrade it just really shows how big of an improvement something can be. I was tearing up climbs that were simply not even in the cards on the ST this weekend. I will also echo the sentiment that the LT's, with the right bike, are actually easier on the motors. I don't have to rev the piss out of the bike as much anymore and the tractor-ability of the LT is insane. I am kicking myself for not doing the LT upgrade last year. Wow!
sx-f long track gearing
my friend just pulled the trigger on a 2014 lt and a 2013 new never run sx-f. He's a big guy I was hoping to stick with stock kit gearing so he doesn't have to keep buying more and more stuff. looks like you geared up? will stock 13-17and 17-20 work or is the 13-17 and 16-17 where its at? Also after reading through here again is the boondocker pod a no go?, I have the parts to make him one on hand, but it sounds like u are liking the modded airbox. we are in Bozeman mt the powder around here is notoriously pesky! Any updates on the build? Thanks for all u have done documenting to help others out!
my friend just pulled the trigger on a 2014 lt and a 2013 new never run sx-f. He's a big guy I was hoping to stick with stock kit gearing so he doesn't have to keep buying more and more stuff. looks like you geared up? will stock 13-17and 17-20 work or is the 13-17 and 16-17 where its at? Also after reading through here again is the boondocker pod a no go?, I have the parts to make him one on hand, but it sounds like u are liking the modded airbox. we are in Bozeman mt the powder around here is notoriously pesky! Any updates on the build? Thanks for all u have done documenting to help others out!
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mtn-doo
Well-known member
You are welcome.
The stock gearing is a little low. You ideally want 2nd gear to be your money gear. Engine fully loaded, just below the rev limiter. With stock gearing, 2nd is bouncing off the rev limiter and 3rd can be a little tall. Gearing up 2 teeth splits the difference. Second is faster track speed than stock and will not fall back like 3rd being stock. Remember, you can gear "any" gear to be your sweet spot. You could gear 4th as an example, to be the sweet spot. 1st and 2nd would be useless, and 5th would only be about 25mph on the road.
Setting your "sweet spot" up in second gives you a "working" 1st gear, and 5th is a nice road cruiser.
In stock form, 2nd is a little short of a full load and 3rd is a little tall to "hold" your RPM's. The 16/17 puts your 2nd gear right in the middle.
Have him put some miles on it first. Stock gearing is plenty acceptable, but if he finds 2nd over-revving and 3rd a little to much, then go with the 16/17 for him.
The ideal roll out is 13 1/2 to 13 3/4 inches.
Sorry about the sidelines, this is a specific build thread, but gets butt dialed sometimes....
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jeffc
New member
Have you had to re-position your index from II to III to compensate for clutch wear? Seems like mine can never find neutral while started and when I go to load the bike; when it gets put into gear; it grabs hard and quits multiple times. Wondering if mine is a unique situation to this specific build.
