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Belt problems with Xp

One thing i found about the whole clutch/belt deflection setup is the way Doo says to do it in their owners manual is not the way to setup the deflection. A Doo mechanic told us tonight too many guys are setting the belt with one cord showing around the secondary. This makes the belt waay to tight. It needs to sit lower in the secondary just enough to almost make the secondary drag while running the sled. Kind of interesting.

Another thing we found on one of our XPs was the secondary clutch adjuster plastic dealio has been moving around on its own and actually worked the nut tight to the point where you could no longer grab it with a wrench. That6 thing is the most Mickey Mouse thing i have ever seen on a sled. C'mon BRP, smarten the F^&* up !

Also we noticed the inside of the jackshaft was soaked with tons of oil. I think the whole oil in the secondary bushing may have some merit. I think it might actually be allowing the adjuster to not get a good clamp on the inside of the helix.

Oh well just some thoughts for this new junk from Doo. Take it for what its worth.
 
O common summitboy that new junk cost almost 11 large, you hurting brp feellings by this coment it is almost 50 oz lighter then old rev.Proud owner of XPenseve 163x.
 
Just a thought - has anyone given consideration to the fact that it might be the belts themselves? Not dealer setup, not heat, not oil (although these could all be contributing factors) but maybe the belts are just crap? Too many different dealer setups out there to be convinced that they are all setting them up incorrectly. I would tend to think that a mass produced belt might have more of a chance to get screwed up than all of BRPs dealers across the country.....

Anyone running aftermarket belts? Are they still blowing up? If so then it is infact dealer set up or factory, but I'm interested to see if the Dayco's and the Carlisle's are holding up any better. If they are, I'd say Ski Doo needs to recall the belts, not "suggest" that you gear down. What a crock.
 
I talked with my dealer today and asked about the reall on the gearing. He said it is not actually a recall or service bulletin, It is a what Skidoo is classifying as a DEEP SNOW SUGGESTION. If you spend a lot of time in Deep Powder they suggest that you gear down from the 20 on top to a 19. So guess who pays for that one.

WTF, what are the SUMMITS made for? LOL........... here we go again, just like last year with not holding RPM's. Having to experiment on our sleds to figure out what will work, while spending hard earned cash on belts,etc.......... why can't they get this chit figured out b4 they sell them to us?
 
Not that break-in isn't important, but that isn't the problem here. If that was the case, every other brand and model would be having the exact same problem.....

In my opinion, this problem has as much to do with clutch SETUP as anything else. I almost toasted belts on my first two mild 20-mile road rides. After a few changes, 200 miles of powder and climbing and I'm on the same belt.

On a related note, I had almost the same amount of clutch/belt heat cruising down the trail at mid-range rpms as I did breaking trail and climbing in 3 feet of heavy, heavy fresh.



What changes did you make?
 
What changes did you make?

Per Winter Brew's recommendation, enough pin weight to run 8100-8200 rpm on clicker 4. That was the biggest change. I also made the switch to the Ultimax XS belt. The belt will drop rpms ~200-300, and it handles the heat MUCH better. The XS belt looks great after putting some stretches of heavy heat into it. That same heat turned the Doo belt to jello. Doo doesn't deserve any more of your money in belts, anyway.......

It still generates too much heat at low-mid rpms, but is much better on the top end. I'd like to find a primary spring that's softer on the bottom, but has the same rate on the top end. I'd gladly give up some of the snap off the bottom for less clutch heat in the mid-range. Either that, or a helix that is steeper on the bottom and a bit more shallow on the top (Winter Brew suggested the shallower top end, first). Something like a 46-38 might accomplish this. Would also help the fact that rpms dropped off a bit on a long steep climb. It took a pretty long climb to see it, though.

FYI, 163X, powdermax, and I'm 170 lbs.
 
I also made the switch to the Ultimax XS belt. The belt will drop rpms ~200-300, and it handles the heat MUCH better. The XS belt looks great after putting some stretches of heavy heat into it. That same heat turned the Doo belt to jello. Doo doesn't deserve any more of your money in belts, anyway.......

See my post above........Ski Doo belts = junk.
 
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