Guess I don't know what to do if my only option is a $3500 motor to make this thing last then I'm screwed. There has to be something else I can do to make this a reliable sled then putting a Indy Dan motor in it (no offense to Indy dan if i had the money i would buy his motor). What about buying a new crank and mono jug and then putting the PMS fix kit in it?
Bad weekend
- Thread starter pikemaster
- Start date
Guess I don't know what to do if my only option is a $3500 motor to make this thing last then I'm screwed. There has to be something else I can do to make this a reliable sled then putting a Indy Dan motor in it (no offense to Indy dan if i had the money i would buy his motor). What about buying a new crank and mono jug and then putting the PMS fix kit in it?
Brad (Power Addiction Racing) has a longrod crankshaft for 800 dollars I believe, and I think Dan does an improved cylinder for 1000. If you find a good crankcase you could put together a much better motor for $1800 plus whatever you find a case for
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
The above in bold is the route that I would go. It truly is the best option if you cant go the indy dan route. If you go with the above option id get the case line bored and fit to the crank. I've seen a few cases where the squish on the bearings was too much and could cause failures.
I went a different route I ordered a new assyembled bottom end and new cylinder and then bought a Fix It Kit form PMS. Hopefully I get it all buy this weekend and I can start getting it put back together. Couple new questions, what is the proper break in for a new motor? Also I have read about people turing up the oil pump on these motors should I also do that or just leave it stock?
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Stock the oil pump is set plenty high for these engines, all your going to do by turning it up is over oil it and gum up the valves. Break in procedure on engines now days doesn't really exist IMO. Ride it from the start like your going to ride the sled.
So got the motor back together and got it started everything seems fine for the first heat cycle. I mixed the gas 40/1 with oil. My question is the one oil line that I can see that runs behind the clutch, I don't see any oil going through the line. Should I be able to see oil go through the line while it idles? I am using polaris blue for break in so I thought I would be able to see it in the lines.
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
Yes you should. Probably air locked. Probably the reason it failed the first time around.
S
SaskRMK
Active member
When you assembled the oil pump and lines did you inject all of the lines with oil from a syringe? This is an important step to make sure your air system doesn't lock up. I lost a top end because of a leaky oil pump pulling air into my smaller injection/bearing lines under load and it would even drain half of my feed line from the tank while it sat a few nights.
be careful and good luck
be careful and good luck
Problems keep just wont stop. Went to work on the sled and notice a puddle of antifreeze under ther sled. Water pump is leaking out the weep hole behind water pump.
Similar threads
