are the modded d8's having problems

[rmkboxer]

I know it seems that stock have mapping problems, when I say mod I mean fuel controller, turbo, twin pipes or porting. are these having any problems. I wanted a stock sled but I am starting to feel that if you mod your d8 then you are better off since the motor is not the motor and chassis are not the weak points in these sleds. I have not had any issues yet with mine

 

[R44guy]

PCV is the low cost Answer

rmkboxer, The best mod IMO is the PCV/PC5 - Power Commander Five. This installs in 5 minutes and there for can be removed quick and easy for warranty work if needed. The most popular map for a stock D8 makes a extra 10-12 hp at 8100 rpms and fixes some of the runability/drivability bog, chug, and stumble concerns at lower elevations. For $369 you can hardly go wrong.

 

[rmkboxer]

they are great unless ran stock got a love it. I will be getting one next season didn't jkinzer go 3000 miles with a turbo no problems?

 

[R44guy]

rmkboxer, yes I forgot to mention the best thing about the PCV is the extra protection against mid throttle lean burn down conditions.

 

[PGTDragon]

Running a Pump Gas Turbo at reasonably high boost (ok, so it is not exactly pump gas) no issues, the sled runs great and I could not be happier. A PC 5 or a BD box is necessary to correct fuel issues and clean up the Treehugger mapping.

 

[Mag]

I've put more miles on boosted than I ever did stock.

The fuel control is a big part but I think at least 4 of my burn downs where because of a faulty regulator that the dealer didn't even check.

 

[Jkinzer]

i put on 3300 miles last year with no issues... changed reeds twice and pistons once (preventative maintenance). i did however have a voltage regulator fail this year right around the 4,000 mile mark and take out my ecu... but swapped out new reg and ecu and its been flawless for the last 5-600 miles again! i couldnt be happier with mine!

 

[IDAHO HOT SHOT]

I have an 09 with SLP twins and carl's head n flash. no problems so far this season. I do have a strange issue at full throttle on the trail only. I will cut out after full throttle

 

[rmkboxer]

I will be adding stuff next season. not enough snow to even spend money on it this year.. I will be in mccall for a week next week. we'll see how it does

 

[diamonddave]

I will be adding stuff next season. not enough snow to even spend money on it this year.. I will be in mccall for a week next week. we'll see how it does

Got an extra spot in the trailer?

 

[rmkboxer]

Got an extra spot in the trailer?

on the sled deck there is

 

[Osborne Performance]

turbo mike turbo

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

on the sled deck there is

boxer..if you load dave on then you boys have to come way north....... alaska..then we can really take you guys for a ride..... and dave can work on my sled..hehe

 

[AndrettiDog]

I have an 09 with SLP twins and carl's head n flash. no problems so far this season. I do have a strange issue at full throttle on the trail only. I will cut out after full throttle

What Polaris map do you have (original 09 or updated to 2010)? I have a high compression head and I'm getting a lot of detonation with my 2010 Polaris map. That is expected because of the touchy detonation settings to help keep burn downs away from dealers. I would like to keep the detonation down and not have to run 50/50 race fuel, but that is looking like a pipe dream. Curious what others have found. I'm also hoping that the most recent Polaris update will change the detonation sensor to not be so quick to put the sled in limp mode.

 

[IDAHO HOT SHOT]

What Polaris map do you have (original 09 or updated to 2010)? I have a high compression head and I'm getting a lot of detonation with my 2010 Polaris map. That is expected because of the touchy detonation settings to help keep burn downs away from dealers. I would like to keep the detonation down and not have to run 50/50 race fuel, but that is looking like a pipe dream. Curious what others have found. I'm also hoping that the most recent Polaris update will change the detonation sensor to not be so quick to put the sled in limp mode.

I am running a Carl's head cut with 30% race gas. I had two different SLP flashes last year. It did it from day one last winter

 

[F-Bomb]

twin pipe and head cut 800cc stock internal motor and injectors....1400 miles on this application

I had a pipe EGT sensor code as a fail and that is supposed to cause a 10% rich condition. Chased that around while I was learning the system and it was confusing and irritating. Once everything was working correctly and lined up the performance is very exciting. What I don't know is wether it simply over fuels the application or pulls out timing (maybe both). Having been doing extensive EGT data log testing on this application I have concluded that it does indeed effect your state of tune and it's worth 400 RPM's at full throttle. For my application you could also see 200* left in the heat range. There is a monster performance difference between 8050 at 1100* and 8450 at a perfect 1300* for this sled. I haven't put it on the timer system yet or even compared to a consistant test bed sled but the seat of the pants results are astounding. It is an entirely new animal running the right heat range and pulling 8400-8500 with the SLP twins.

Right now I have over 20 running hours of data testing on multiple different setups and finally have an excellent grasp of the report data. Applying what I know to the various pieces and parts was the next step. Got that done so now putting that into a relationship of sled lengths or speeds for a measurement of actual field performance gain or loss is next on the agenda. Ie stuff you can tell or show the everyday common customer. Indentifying potential improvements from theory and then field testing for absolute certainty appears to be the progression.

Now fun stuff learned along the way...with certain Polaris maps (there appears to be different voltage levels for sensitivety levels and function of sensors) you can tinker with all kinds of variations of fuel tune by plugging and unplugging both eth wires and the pipe sensor to compensate of air requirements at different levels of riding. (warning lights go on and throw codes so for some that might not be a fun aspect of experimenting). Fuel controllers in the hands of a knowledgable person are an essential and valuable tool. Especially if you don't have multiple ECU's and other parts that are critical in the workings.

I've also learned that it is absolute and obvious that the EFI for this application is not completely closed loop and fully compensating. Already knew that but just didn't know how much or why. I can see obvious variations and the performance model is very similar to our experiences on carb'd sleds. IE if you want consistant high performance at a range of altitudes and conditions you have to have EGT"s and or A/F (both requiring extensive testing for an understanding of what the reports mean on your application) a knowledge of how they work plus you have to be able to tune your fuel system from the information gained from your engines heat reports.

Anyways...you guys want your efi buggy's to consistantly rip you better follow my lead and learn how to first use an EGT or a A/F instrument and then either be lucky enough that your shop has the deal dialed for your agenda and always stay there or you have the ability to do it yourself with a fuel controller.

 

[chumbilly1]

good post as usual Rob, how did you know when your pipe sensor failed? did it blink the check engine light?

 

[F-Bomb]

Yep the standard 5 blinks over and over. Just getting the hang of what all of the sensor blinks and how the process works was a ....IS A challenge. The weird part of this deal on this particular situation was that we fixed it (just the way the sled ran made it really obvious that there was an issue even if the light wasn't blinking). But then we couldn't get the light to come back on no matter what we did yet the sled ran great and was back to normal with the new sensor. Hmm?

Luckily it made diagosing the lost heat and rpm's pretty simple to find once I came to this conclusion. While it was going on wasn't as easy to figure out because we were doing other "things" too. Four good (frustrating) days afield kind of sucks but spilled milk now. If the light didn't code or the ECU didn't code for digital wrench it would have been maddening to find. I half wonder if alot of the issues with RPM that you see guys reporting post updates are caused by this sensor and how it performs it's function. Maybe without coding or if a shop doesn't have the wear with all to look here the poor consumer just gets a crappy runner because it's 10% fatter then the ecu should be programmed to run at. Without EGT's and exprience you wouldn't be able to know this. Then think in terms of the sled already not tuned up because who knows what is going on with the misc ecu re-flashes part of which are for sensor specs and part of which are for fuel. Poor runner and then even worse yet in some enviroments.

Clearly after all of this the ultimate tool for the Pol CFI 800 is a GREAT DEALER. Second should be a good EGT, third the controller. Once again did I forget to mention...this sled once again absolutely hauls the mail for a naturally asperated stocker with exhaust and a head mod!