anyone have to add more threads to get more boost??

[Polarisrocks]

I have a apex with a boondocker turbo 28 and I cant get it above 15lbs. outlaw told me i have to add more threads to the waste gate rod to build more boost. Has anyone had to do this?? how much more has to be added? I have to run 110 octain to run from 14-17 lbs, so why not turn it up to 17 are my thoughts. Motor has 10:1 pistons and carrelo rods, so I should be safe for 17.

Also looking for imput on front shocks, what works the best, and do you know of any for sale??

 

[M5-]

I added threads to mine. The rod material is soft and threads easily with a good quality die. I can't remeber the pitch off hand.

M5

 

[TurboKeith]

Have you thought about just getting an adjustable boost controller. It makes the boost changes a bunch easier. You can run it as high or low as you want in just a few seconds.

 

[Sapling-Thrasher]

You just bought it and your already cranking it up!!!

It has a boost controller but you only get so much out of the controller. Anything above that you have to shorten the rod. If your out of threads then do what M-5 said and cut more threads on the rod.

 

[Polarisrocks]

15 is not enough, I thought boondockers 2 stage was good for 24lbs of boost, thats what there web site says. if so why do I have take it apart to thread more to just get more boost. I do have a boost knob, it is only good for 6lbs of boost. so if the base adjusted is 9 lbs then I can turn in the knob all the way and get 15. I have the knob all the way in. So guess I have to rethread the rod.. is it metric?? Can the part that screws over the shaft be shortened??? instead of taking the canister off. I also amd getting mixed imput on where to put the weight in the supertip weights. I put the tunston in the heel and 4washers in the middle. rode it yesterday, seamed to hit veryhard on the bottum and mid but didnt have the top end... what is everyone running??? are the daltons any good?? I like a shallower helix and more weight. I am not a fan of throwing more helix at a sled to lower the rpms. But with the shock wave, its soo easy... too easy. I have a snow pro green spring and it about 2 turns out.

Any experience would be greatly appreciated

Jim

 

[savedbygrace]

If you have a Turbo Smart boost controller you should be able to turn the boost up 12 psi over the waste gate. If you have a Hallman boos controller it should have come with a heavy spring that you can install and get an extra 12 psi also. The Hallman with the stock light spring will only turn up 6 psi.

 

[JSCC]

I didnt read the above post ^^^^^^^^^ before posting. This would also be my guess.

 

[Ultralord]

15 is not enough, I thought boondockers 2 stage was good for 24lbs of boost, thats what there web site says. if so why do I have take it apart to thread more to just get more boost. I do have a boost knob, it is only good for 6lbs of boost. so if the base adjusted is 9 lbs then I can turn in the knob all the way and get 15. I have the knob all the way in. So guess I have to rethread the rod.. is it metric?? Can the part that screws over the shaft be shortened??? instead of taking the canister off. I also amd getting mixed imput on where to put the weight in the supertip weights. I put the tunston in the heel and 4washers in the middle. rode it yesterday, seamed to hit veryhard on the bottum and mid but didnt have the top end... what is everyone running??? are the daltons any good?? I like a shallower helix and more weight. I am not a fan of throwing more helix at a sled to lower the rpms. But with the shock wave, its soo easy... too easy. I have a snow pro green spring and it about 2 turns out.

Any experience would be greatly appreciated

Jim

I would not go to 24 get the clutching how you like it rember you are still breaking that motor in it only it was new around 600 miles and needs a chance to break in like 4 or 500 miles, another thing I think you will start flirting with valve issues if you go over 20 I know some guys do it but just rember the motors are big bucks!!!!!!!!!!