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Any tips to getting secondary star bolts loose?

How the Hell did you weld nuts on the them, the torx bolts are like a low grade metal at best. I also use the propane torch, and use anti-sease the threads on install


If you really think they are a low grade steel, try drilling them. They are a high carbon steel with a good heat treat. I drilled the head off of two of them on a clutch of mine. Took a while even with high quality sharp drill bits. The stud was only hand tight after that. I have spares on hand just in case but shouldn't need to be that tight.

By the way low quality steel is typically easier to weld than High quality steel, much more forgiving.
 
I've found the impact method works best. If you don't have a bit to fit that you want to use as an impact, a flat ended punch or a piece of rod with a similar diameter of the bolts also works well


Have also used the heat method on cat secondaries. It seems to work best on them
 
Secondary star bolts

We have stopped using the impact driver and have gone to using the propane torch, Lisle bit and a long handled ratchet. Heat, apply pressure, if it doesn't loosen, apply more heat and try again. Got tired of welding on nuts, going to the machine shop to have the bolt milled out, calling the Snap On man, etc. Have used the same bit on at least a dozen drivens lately with no problems.
 
heat with small propane torch enough and they will come right out. if you look close they use yellow loctite. do not use anything but antiseize when installing.
 
I also broke four T27 bits by using an impact tool so i stopped using it. I could not hold the clutch tight enough while trying to remove screws when it was sitting on the floor so I flipped it around and put it back on the jack shaft and set the brake. I used a propane torch and then while pushing in and turning at the same time every one came out fine.
 
The screw gun type impacts work really well. We had one we couldnt get out and broke probably 5 bits, including a try with an air impact. The screw gun impact zipped it right out. Its definitely ridiculous how tight they put those things in.
 
Heat like Paul said.

That and a bit of shock works well.

I use a Mapp gas pinpoint torch head and a cordess impact gun ... pops them out easily.




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Never liked the torx. I think the Allen head or square head would be better.:face-icon-small-con

On that point I disagree. I've built a few SIP panel houses in my spare time over the years and have used Allen, Square, and Torx headed screws. When installing 10, 12, 14" long screws thru the panel and into a glue-lam beams both the square drive and Allen head would strip the head of the screw and the driver rendering both useless. I attribute this to the Torx having the most surface area for bit to screw interface. I think equally important is quality fasteners and tools, if the heat-treat is not right or non-existant (read cheap hardware or tools) then your are going to strip any of them regardless.

The Torx will survive the longest and put up with the most abuse. Much like the difference between standard or straight screw and the phillips, phillips can easily take twice the torque before sub-staining damage. I personally would rate them Allen, Square, and then Torx; with Torx being the winner. While allen has more surface area than the square the corners are a shallow enough angle that they allow rounding easier. Hence rate it lower than the square.
 
Never had a problem taking thrm out by had with 3/8 drive ratchet and a snap on bit....
 
Agreed, torx is the best possible screw head that can be used, just always use heat if theres loctite first. trust me a hex would be a nightmare and slot far worse. Back in the day when we did tons of marine work all we had was stainless slotted or hex, dont even bother with a driver, just drill them right off the bat if there in there any time at all underwater.
 
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Have to admit that I've been down the same road. Heat and a good smack on the tool will get them out. If you don't do it this way, you get the following situation....LOL

Calgary-20121205-01470.jpg
 
Myself and friend have a 13 and same problem!
Anyone got them replaced by warranty?
 
I found that it's easiest to do when the clutch is still really warm. Take if off the sled right after riding it and the screws come out easily. When cold, they can be a bi+ch.
 
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