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Any Tips for increasing Trailer towing mpg?

MOST COST EFFECTIVE THING TO INCREASE MPG, SLOW DOWN, PLAIN AS THAT!

Google speed vs. drag and wind resistence and start reading. It's unreal how a change from 55 to 60, 60-65, and then 65-70 is in terms of load on the engine which of course is MPG. You would think it would go up the same amount per 5mph increase. Not even close how it starts to skyrocket when you get near the 70+ category.

It took me probably 3 years to get our group to keep it at 70 or less when going out west. On the trip to Togwotee and back it saves us 1 stop each way. Not a full tank but a fuel stop none the less, which saves time, keeps people passing us instead of us passing them with a trailer etc. Just makes the whole trip easier on everyone. We also when in the hills keep off the cruise ctrl. Using cruise in the hills sucks the fuel down like no other because the engine want to keep your speed on the hill which means it will downshift and increase the RPM's to do this. Again wasting fuel. If you simply go a normal speed and keep the pedal where your at you will slowly bleed off speed but usually on most occasions the transmission won't shift, the engine will be lower rpm's which saves fuel. Sure you may be going 60 at the top of the hill but what's 5-10 mph in that little spot. Nothing.

5.4L Ford with 3:73's at 65 with 4 place open trailer with slushguard will be always in the high 11's to 12mpg. I have the 35.7 gallon tank so my range is pretty nice heading out west. 4 guys, 4 sleds and the gear makes the fuel price not all that bad. Just have to learn to keep out of the throttle. Getting there 30 minutes or 1 hour earlier does you nothing but cost you more money.
More food, more fuel for the truck, more fuel for the sled, more oil for the sled and on and on.

1) Slow down 5mph minimum from what you have been going to see quality results.
2) Have a truck with no less then 3:73's or equilv with normal size tires. Bigger tires, better look into gear ratios
3) Programers do help a bit. Not earth shattering but notable differences.
4) No cruise in steep hilly terrain
5) Roll into and out of the throttle smoothly while trailering and don't think it's cool to drag race the truck next to you with a full load of sleds! (because I will usually win due to less care!)
6) Tire pressure up to snuff on the rig and the trailer.
7)
 
BS on closing the windows...Consumer Reports just did a test on the effects of open windows and A/C. While you are correct that modern A/C has much less effect on mileage (up to 1 mpg) than older vehicles, driving with the windows open didn't change the mileage:beer;

As said by everyone else, slow down...wish I could follow that advice:D
didn't mythbusters do that experiment also, and they found that over 55 mph(i think) that it was just as effective to run the ac as having the windows opoen, as far as mpg goes anyways!
 
Buy a dodge..... This is MPG from my Dad's 2006 dodge 1ton:face-icon-small-win Of course this is unloaded, suntract a couple of mpg for towing.

IMG00035.jpg
 
I want a nuclear-powered pickup truck :)

Nuclear reactor to create heat, then a steam-drive just like an old school locomotive :)
 
when your talking 1250 miles, 16 hours each way, running 85to90mph, running 70mph would add 4-5 hours each way. ill pay the extra bit to save 10 hours on the road.
 
check out my site ...the mpg caps rocks and so does the sulphurx for diesel

I have been using the MPG caps in the wifes van and my Bimmer for over 2 years ...smooths out rough idle and I find that it helps throttle response..just snappier

been running the sulpurx and MPG liquid in my Kenworth and have seen about 10% fuel savings a month ..now for those of you that don't know I run 10,000 miles a month so the extra 7 to 900 bucks is a welcome bigtime ..

the best thing that I can say is do your home work on this stuff

http://doubledeucetransport.com
 
Biggest things you can do, outside of having a well-maintained vehicle including fresh fluids and correct tire pressure, etc, is to adjust your driving habits.

Slowing down will help, as will not using cruise control in the hills. I find I can get a noticeable jump in mileage by predicting hills and accelerating BEFORE them, and anticipating stops and getting out of the gas earlier as opposed to charging in and getting on the brakes. Sounds dumb, but most people don't do it...
 
when your talking 1250 miles, 16 hours each way, running 85to90mph, running 70mph would add 4-5 hours each way. ill pay the extra bit to save 10 hours on the road.

The obvious has escaped you hasn't it? Remember talk about average speed which I don't care how fast you say you go, your average speed is no doubt in the mid 60's on the high end or low 60's more then likely when you factor in stops, turns, slow downs, roads, hills, other people. Throw your GPS on the dash, turn it on when the truck starts and don't turn it off until you get to your destination 1250 miles away. You will be shocked at your average speed my friend. It WILL NOT be near 70. Sorry to burst your bubble. I have done that distance since 1995 at many different speeds, with and without a trailer and it just doesn't happen. I'm one to go 6 hours without stopping as well on a tank of fuel. Basically $175-$200.00 savings is what we were saving per trip. Two trips a year, I would rather take it slow then to simply throw money out the window. I'm guessing you will be thinking the same thing on your trips out west this year.
 
Cummins vs power stroke, hmmmm? The cummins has 30% less moving parts, way more torque, 19mpg vs. 12, If the V8 deisels were so much better why don't they run them in semi trucks:rolleyes:
 
So I read the hypermiling link earlier in this thread and applied a few of the things. Right now for my work car I drive an OUtback, Was getting about 24 mpg out of the last few tanks ( I watch it pretty close) Since its a stick I started doing the coast when the light goes red and down steep hills ( as long as it dosen't fowl up traffice) and cut down on the aggressive driving.
Results.................... Got 31 mpg out of the last tank! 7mpg increase I know you cant always do these things, but if you drive a stick try a few out you may be surprised at the savings.
 
For saving gas mileage when towing, decrease tongue weight just so the trailer don't sway. One pound of tongue weight is a pound added to the total trailer weight being towed.
 
I've been doing my version of hypermiling ever since my '03 chev had an average fuel economy. It really works. I just went from East Idaho to Portland, Or. to Seattle & Spokane, Wa. and back home pulling a 16' open car hauler trailer. I did alot of testing, due to boredom and being a tightwad, of speeds and with or without the cruise, slower is better (unfortunately) and not having to be the first to the top of the hill is great as well. I also take good care of my trailer wheel bearings. Lots of grease and not too tight. This makes a huge differance. I averaged 15 MPG with a 1500lb load on the trailer behind my '06 1/2 ton chev. Everything above mentioned is important too.
 
For saving gas mileage when towing, decrease tongue weight just so the trailer don't sway. One pound of tongue weight is a pound added to the total trailer weight being towed.

?

A pound is a pound that is being pulled or towed or hauled. Example. 26,000lbs GCW. No matter where it is it's still 26,000lbs and the trator, truck or whatever it is hauling it is pulling that weight. Air drag, rolling resistence, and overall combined weight has the biggest effect other then speed. It's really that simple.
 
I drive a 92 cummins flatbed and get 19 mpg without a trailer. It will drop to 16 or so when hauling 3 sleds, one on bed and a two place open trailer. The cruise will drop it significantly. If you don't change the air and fuel filters regularly it will drop mileage a lot. I'm switching to Amzoil filters, they last longer and work better. Change your oil on time. It's simple, but some people don't think about it as having an effect.
 
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