Another Track Opinion Question for the pro

[Stroker Customs]

So I have a 162 X3 on my pro with Avid 8 tooth drivers on a CMX drive. My question is should I take this track off and put a CE 2.5 on or would I be giving too much up. I almost feel like the 3" completely changes the way a Pro handles but I am not sure if its track or CMX front steering Geometry that I dont like.

 

[richracer1]

Did you move the skid back when you installed the CMX drive? If so, that will alter the way the sled handles (mostly to the bad), regardless of which track you have on it.

I know KMOD had/has rails for his skid that do not need to be moved back when installing a drop & roll and using extrovert drivers. A local guy has the CMX drive on his '13 Pro running the 3" Challenger Extreme and has his KMOD skid in the original mounting locations. You could always call IceAge and ask about a custom set of rails.

 

[Stroker Customs]

My skid is in the stock location.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I think you should cut the track down to two and three-quarter on the outer edge.
And leave it 3 inch in the center.

It might be worth trying a stock front end geometry just swap it on and try it out.

 

[Stroker Customs]

I think you should cut the track down to two and three-quarter on the outer edge.
And leave it 3 inch in the center.

It might be worth trying a stock front end geometry just swap it on and try it out.

I have actually been thinking about this and wandering if I should cut them down to 2.5" or 2.75". I think it has to help with tight tree runs. I just hate to ruin that expensive of a track but then again at some of the offers I have been getting for it I might as well try it and if it don't work just cut all paddles to 2.5" and have an X 2.5

 

[richracer1]

I have actually been thinking about this and wandering if I should cut them down to 2.5" or 2.75". I think it has to help with tight tree runs. I just hate to ruin that expensive of a track but then again at some of the offers I have been getting for it I might as well try it and if it don't work just cut all paddles to 2.5" and have an X 2.5

Option: Sell the 3" paddle track and get the new style CE 2.5 with the 3" pitch. I'm installing one right now, the 9175M (15x162x2.5 - 3" pitch)

 

[Stroker Customs]

Option: Sell the 3" paddle track and get the new style CE 2.5 with the 3" pitch. I'm installing one right now, the 9175M (15x162x2.5 - 3" pitch)

What's the deal with the 3.0" pitch over the 2.86"? Is it different lug design that makes it better or is it the slight gear change of the 3.0" pitch? I wouldn't think the 3.0 over 2.86 drive change would be enough to matter. Are you going to cut the outer lugs on your 2.5 or are you gonna run it the way it is.

 

[richracer1]

What's the deal with the 3.0" pitch over the 2.86"? Is it different lug design that makes it better or is it the slight gear change of the 3.0" pitch? I wouldn't think the 3.0 over 2.86 drive change would be enough to matter. Are you going to cut the outer lugs on your 2.5 or are you gonna run it the way it is.

Went that way to get the lower ratio using the 7T Avid drivers w/o buying an aftermarket belt drive system, not much difference in cost between the two 2.5 track versions, so killed 2 birds with one mod. No, I'm not cutting any of the lugs.

Here's link to Mountainhorse's thread about Pro gear ratios, I'll be going from 2.09:1 to 2.27:1 according to his calculations with 7T 3" pitch drivers:

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3544037&postcount=1

 

[Kcjepperson]

What exactly are you not liking about the handling of the pro setup that way. I am also running a x3, kmod, and cmx belt drive, cmx front end with raptor shocks. I absolutely love it. I get on a stock pro and I feel like I am riding an iq.

I have a spare axles for my cmx drive that I am going to send up to mark and have him put 7t drivers on just to see what the gear reduction is I should go from 2:14 to about 2:35ish. Part of the tinkering process I guess.

 

[Stroker Customs]

Mine just will not lay over like a stock pro. The turning radius isn't as sharp as stock and it almost feels like a tank. Where you notice it is slow speed or If you try and go down a steep hill and crank it back up hill mid way you kinda look like a tool cause you take 100 yards to get it to turn back up. Personally I don't like the pro without a sway bar either so I guess we all have our opinions. Lol

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Tighten your front track shock spring a quarter turn at a time.

I am running the Challenger extreme 2.5 old-style.
I had to adjust back and forth a couple times to get it to feel right without pushing in a sidehill or trenching and washing out.

I can only think that the 3" would be more of a push.

 

[Kcjepperson]

I agree I would try some suspension adjustments. My sled is beyond easy at laying over. I let guys ride it in meadows and they just keep tipping over. Not having the sway bar takes some getting use to. I didn't like not having it at first but, i don't really notice it anymore. Well when I am cursing down a groomed trail I wish I had it but other than that I don't mind not having the sway bar.