Alternative Furnace Option - Diesel Parking Heater
- Thread starter ManUtdWY
- Start date
Going through the side wall is what i did. The road chemicals issue is why i did it that way. Warming the hands with the exhaust works very well!!
The inlet to the burn chamber on mine also pulls air from the inside of the trailer . . again, because of the road chemicals. I DO NOT want that salty mist to be sucked into the heater!!
The underside of the trailer rarely gets washed, but the front, sides, back, get a power wash after every time I pull it when roads are sloppy, so no issues with the outlet getting rusty for 2 seasons so far.
If the heater is working correctly, there is not soot on the outside of the trailer. These heaters burn VERY clean!!
Here is a link to the "guru" on these heaters. He does a very detailed explanation on how they work, how to install properly, and how to fix them if/when they break, and MUCH more.
I watched that series. Was kind of brutal but very informative. I ordered my heater last night. I still need to go out and pick up odds and ends of stuff that he recommended in his series. Heater will be here soon. My trailer doesn't have side vents, only an overhead roof vent (which may eventually come out for an AC unit) so I don't think I can draw fresh air from inside the trailer. I suppose I could cut in side vents. I too have a concern about putting anything under the trailer and a concern pulling that salty, dirty, nasty air from under the trailer into the heater combustion chamber. I wonder if a guy could run the air intake out the side wall of the trailer too; maybe higher up so salt and whatnot isn't a concern.
I have my exhaust run through the floor, under the trailer to the side in front of the wheels. After a full season of road slat and such, the exhaust is starting to rust/corrode a bit. I figure I'll get three years out of it, and at $20 for the 6ft section, is something I am fine with as it only takes a few min to replace.
As long as you run it in a way that isn't too hard to replace the section under the trailer, I don't think it is too much of an issue. The air intake, I do have inside the trailer as there is no way I want that salt spray inside the heater.
As long as you run it in a way that isn't too hard to replace the section under the trailer, I don't think it is too much of an issue. The air intake, I do have inside the trailer as there is no way I want that salt spray inside the heater.
I would keep the air in take inside the trailer. Theres enough air leaks in the trailer to let fresh air in that one wouldn't need to worry about not having enough combustion air.
I insulated my walls with 1" pink foamboard and my ceiling with 1 1/2". I didn't seal up every crack with spray foam but I imagine with the pink board insulation I cut down on the leaks a lot. I suppose I could always pull combustion air from the trailer and, I assume if it's an issue the heater will throw a code and then I can just try something different
Now THAT is a groovy set-up!
Very true. There is such low air volume for the intake, and most trailers have some sort of "flow through" air vents (or leaks) that are more than adequate to supply air for the intake. It would not take much road chemical spray to ruin the heater!
Agreed! This guy is rough to watch, but he sure knows these heaters inside and out! I had a glow plug fail on mine and used one of his videos to fix it.
So considering my walls and ceiling are insulated with pink foamboard, but all gaps are not sealed with spray foam, do you think I will still have enough air "leaks" for the heater to run properly and efficiently? My gut says no. Maybe I can try it - I assume the heater will throw a code if it isn't getting adequate fresh air for combustion?
There will be enough air leaks around the doors and other small openings to allow enough fresh air to enter the trailer plus you already have the large volume of air already in the trailer. If some how your trailer does go into a negative pressure inside, air will get pulled in through all the little cracks and gaps. My 8.5 x 24 trailer is insulated with 1" closed cell foam board on the ceiling with a reflective coating ( better r value than the pink stuff) and seams are caulked the walls are pink foam then reflective style insulation with seams taped to seal it up. My heater draws air from inside the trailer and I have not had any issues with it.
Awesome that is good to know. Thanks for the info. It's always helpful when people can give firsthand experience. Then I think I am going to route exhaust out the wall and keep the fresh air intake in the trailer.
I think that is a good plan. There should be enough inflow of air through "leaks" and other areas - like "flow through vents" that most trailers have in the front and rear corners, that you should be good to go. Good luck. These heaters are pretty amazing!
Did you do anything else when installing this thru-hull fitting or was it really as simple as cutting a 1 1/2" hole and cutting the foam board insulation back 3"? No heat/exhaust tape or anything like that? How has this worked for you over the past year? This is the route I too am planning to go. I am going to do a lower mount so my kids and wife can use the exhaust out the sidewall as a hand warmer while were are hanging outside the trailer. Obviously I just want to be 100% sure there isn't a fire hazard and the wall doesn't get too hot!This is the fitting that I used.
Espar Eberspacher D2 D4 Webasto Air Top Marine Exhaust 24mm Hull skin fitting | eBay
Eberspacher Vehicle Heaters. Eberspacher Marine Heaters. Eberspacher or Webasto 24mm Marine Heater Exhaust Hull Fitting with Gaskets and Mounting Bolts. Eberspacher and Webasto heaters. Webasto Vehicle Heaters.www.ebay.com
I used a 1 1/2" hole saw for my thru hole. I then cut away insulation to roughly 3" diameter. It's worked pretty slick. I'll try and take a picture tonight when I get home. It is a bit messy as we were cramming to finish before our trip. But it is safe and functional. I had my neighbor test the CO levels in the trailer when it was running. I'm happy with the setup.
Just need a better battery box, it tore off its shelf on our drive home...
No issues with it. I did the same on my previous trailer so it’s been 2 seasons. I cut the hole, trim back the foam and the bolt it together (comes with the pads to go in between). Then I just used sealed the exhaust pipe to it. Even had a buddy come check that I didn’t have a leak in case we stayed in the trailer overnight.
I highly recommend opening a vent when it is running so the moisture can escape. Plus it gets wicked hot.
I like simple. This is what I plan to do also. Think imma mount the heater itself high in the trailer so it’s out of the way, but extend the duct down towards the floor so I don’t end up with a hot ceiling and cold floor. I’ll also route the exhaust down some so I can bring it out if the trailer low enough so my kids can use it to warm their hands. The only vent my trailer has is the overhead but I do have a cover over it so I can keep it open in bad weather. I’ll definitely keep it cracked. That will also help with keeping the air intake in the trailer. Thanks for the replies
For a cheap fix in a hurry. I wired 2 120mm computer fans near the ceiling angled down. Used a cheap toggle switch right off the battery. They moved a lot more air than I thought they would and barely use any power. The ceiling was definitely still warmer than the floor but the sleds thawed out and the water ran out
So - are these things just basically a baby salamander, or "Torpedo" heater, but with an exhaust pipe and heat exchangers?
Those types will run on Diesel, and we used to in a semi open barn, but if indoors, we always had to pony up for Kerosene.
I heated my machine shop for 2 or 3 years off of one of those.
Those types will run on Diesel, and we used to in a semi open barn, but if indoors, we always had to pony up for Kerosene.
I heated my machine shop for 2 or 3 years off of one of those.
Not sure how big of a battery that you are looking to house, but these are plentiful on ebay as brand new take-outs for RV's (Indiana seller) and Ambulances (Ohio seller).
I just bought one for the church bus this last week, and was amazed to find them so available!
They take a "65" series battery I think, which is a pretty large battery.
It will go to 1000 CCA in that series.
Ford E-Series Van Cab & Chassis Truck Steel Battery Box with Lid RV New Takeout | eBay
THIS IS A NEW TAKEOUT BATTERY BOX. THERE MAY BE A MARK IN PAINT FROM REMOVAL AND STORAGE.
www.ebay.com
I just bought one for the church bus this last week, and was amazed to find them so available!
They take a "65" series battery I think, which is a pretty large battery.
It will go to 1000 CCA in that series.
