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Adjustable boost actuator???

I'm pretty sure this is what he is talking about.

Untitled-1.jpg


This will adjust boost from like 3 - 18 PSI by turning the collar, you don't need any tools to adjust and it's a lot easier to adjust accurately than a boost T.

If you are using this you do not need a Boost T and having one would be pointless. If you wanted to run an electronic boost controller you could and there would be benefits like like altitude compensation, digital boost gauge and push to pass(if you actually use it). The adjustable actuator was designed mainly for people the ride at very different altitudes, like sea level in the mid-west to 11,000 ft in Colorado.
 
I'm pretty sure this is what he is talking about.

Untitled-1.jpg


This will adjust boost from like 3 - 18 PSI by turning the collar, you don't need any tools to adjust and it's a lot easier to adjust accurately than a boost T.

If you are using this you do not need a Boost T and having one would be pointless. If you wanted to run an electronic boost controller you could and there would be benefits like like altitude compensation, digital boost gauge and push to pass(if you actually use it). The adjustable actuator was designed mainly for people the ride at very different altitudes, like sea level in the mid-west to 11,000 ft in Colorado.

The reason Im running the adjustable boost actuator is so I can turn my boost way down if i run out of race fuel and need to put pump gas or AV gas in my sled.
 
Thanks BIGHOE!! for posting that pic and the info you wrote. I find it funny that so many guys on this web site think they know everything and when in fact they know very little. I posted a question and it took a fight and me being called stupid to get the info I wanted from someone that has seen or used the part I was asking about. I was asking becouse I just bought a adjustable actuator and I can say i dont know very much about it. But guys that dont even know what im asking about jump all over me for posting info about what I owen to help and others that read this to understand.
My point is, if you dont know what your talking about dont post.
 
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Hey now, I didn't call you stupid, I called you crazy.

Ok, I'm finished.... This thread was over before it started I think. Lol
 
So by looking at your post count, you made this mistake 173 times already?

And you 736 and your # keeps going up with every post!!
Keep them coming smart guy!!
This is what Im talking about, Jonce must know it all. Maybe he can tell me everything I need to know about any snowmobile question I have. He should even open up his own shop Damn he is so smart. Just look at all the smart info he posts on line.
 
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So Back to some info that can be helpful to others.

If you run an Adjustable boost acuator and run a boost controller You will need to Take the check ball and spring out of the boost controller so it wont restrict the perssure to the adjustable acuator. If you leave the check ball and spring in, it will limit the minimum amout of boost and max amout will go up too.
That might be over some peoples heads so if you need to, feel free to call me and I can help you get it.
303 888 9378
kev
 
Have you ever unscrewed the controller all the way and taken a look at the handiwork someone did on those controllers? The new housing doesn't even match the diameter of the actuator housing. The screws used to hold the two pieces together pinch the body down so it looks like a hexagon instead of a circle. Not to mention the welded on rod and heat shrink to cover up the weld. I guess it works, but after looking at it I went with a Blox controller instead.
 
So Back to some info that can be helpful to others.

If you run an Adjustable boost acuator and run a boost controller You will need to Take the check ball and spring out of the boost controller so it wont restrict the perssure to the adjustable acuator. If you leave the check ball and spring in, it will limit the minimum amout of boost and max amout will go up too.
That might be over some peoples heads so if you need to, feel free to call me and I can help you get it.
303 888 9378
kev

Just so I understand, you are taking out the internals of the boost controller? Wouldn't that be in essence the same as just running your boost reference line from your charge tube to your adjustable boost actuator (i.e. wastegate) with no boost controller in line? If that is the case, why go through the hassle of pulling the boost controller apart? Why not by a $3 piece of hose that can run from the charge tube to the adjustable boost actuator/wastegate?


And you 736 and your # keeps going up with every post!!
Keep them coming smart guy!!
This what Im talking about, Jonce must now it all. Maybe he can tell me everything I need to know about any snowmobile question I have. He should even open up his own shop Damn he is so smart. Just look at all the smart info he posts on line.

Never claimed to know it all but I appreciate you calling me smart, that made my day.

This thread has a different tone to it, it seems that you are trying to find answers but not accepting the solutions offered by many reputable folks on here. For future threads, please let everyone know your setup: sled, turbo, turbo kit mfg if there is one (i.e. Boondocker, etc.), and pictures help tremendously. With pictures, there might not have been so much back and forth you could've got to the answer/solution you liked best in a quicker amount of time.

With that said, what is your setup?
 
Wow. I have a turbo & am SOMEWHAT handy with it... but I don't get 2/3 of what folks are talking about in this thread (and I don't mean snowmn77)

Perhaps It's the difference between the way cutler does things compared to BD that isn't making sense to me?
 
You don't need a boost t at all. Just run a piece of hose between the charge tube and the actuator.

Backcountry,

This isn't anything really different. It's just like a normal actuator for an internal wastegate. You twist it to change the boost rather than a boost t. Instead of having a fixed spring in the actuator that sets it at a fixed boost level, it has a way to adjust that spring tension in the actuator so the boost level is adjustable. This is a universal turbo wastegate, will work on any of the garrets. It will work on your CPC kit exactly the way your current wastegate does, it is just adjustable.
 
The adjustable actuator is right around $190 and a smart sleeper boost controller is right around $120.

I bought a 2008 M1000 with a Ras gas Boondockers turbo. The kit was installed in the fall of 2007 and was never updated after that. Im updating everything I can to make it a pull and go sled. I think keeping things simple will help make it a good sled. I like the idea of not having a boost controller so I wont be running one on my sled to keep things clean under the hood, and one less thing for me to play with.
 
Jonce, you asked
Just so I understand, you are taking out the internals of the boost controller?(yes so in the full open postion it wont afect the actuator) Why not by a $3 piece of hose that can run from the charge tube to the adjustable boost actuator/wastegate? (yes you are right and thats what im going to do)

Thats funny you just asked the same Question but in a different way that I did in my 1st post. :)

From everything I have leaned in the last day from talking to people and this thread, Is you would Leave the Boost T on a sled that has an adjustable actuator so you can fake out the actuator by tuning the boost T. But having a boost T would be a waste of MONEY because you could just run a $3 piece of hose like you said and adjust your adjustable actuator.

I asked the 1st question for 2 reasons, 1, wanted to keep my sled clean under the hood and not have all kinds of things running all over the place like a Boost T And 2nd was to save money. I dont want to spend $120 if I dont need to. It was a win win for me to Know what I needed and what I didnt need.

and PS sorry for my spelling I type faster then I think some times
 
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I'm pretty sure this is what he is talking about.

Untitled-1.jpg


This will adjust boost from like 3 - 18 PSI by turning the collar, you don't need any tools to adjust and it's a lot easier to adjust accurately than a boost T.

If you are using this you do not need a Boost T and having one would be pointless. If you wanted to run an electronic boost controller you could and there would be benefits like like altitude compensation, digital boost gauge and push to pass(if you actually use it). The adjustable actuator was designed mainly for people the ride at very different altitudes, like sea level in the mid-west to 11,000 ft in Colorado.

Who makes this acuator and where did you get it
 
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