I seized my 98 RMK 600 the other day. It is only the clutch side. The sled only has 2600 miles on it and I think it is worth fixing. However Now that it is apart I found that metal filings from the rings are in my bottom end. I think a couple hundred bucks for a top end is worth it but If I have to split the bottom end I just don't think it worth the money. Is there any way to flush the filings out of the bottom end? I don't think there is much metal down there but from what I understand any amount can cause bottom end failure. Is there any hope here?
98 RMK 600 Advice/Help?!
- Thread starter Roar_Your_Engine
- Start date
Assuming there isn't much down there and they are small you can do a couple of things.
1 - Pull the drain plug out from the bottom of the front of the cylinder on the case. The using premix gas flush it out good.
2 - If the junks are big you can do #1 and then rotate the crank and use a rag/screw driver combo to wipe them out down in there.
3 - You can pull the motor, flip it upside down and flush with premix.
sled_guy
1 - Pull the drain plug out from the bottom of the front of the cylinder on the case. The using premix gas flush it out good.
2 - If the junks are big you can do #1 and then rotate the crank and use a rag/screw driver combo to wipe them out down in there.
3 - You can pull the motor, flip it upside down and flush with premix.
sled_guy
I will try that. Thank you VERY much for your help!!!!!!!!!
I disagree
If you are going to invest in a new top end, and I assume you are planning on purchasing a pair of new piston kits and getting your cylinders honed at a local machine shop (not a big expense but a very good idea). The deal is by the time you buy pistons, base gaskets, new o-rings for the head (you should do this unless just recently replaced), maybe consider wrist pin bearings as well. You go to all that expense but not split the case when you know you have debris down there (?). Other than about $20 for a new crank seal and a tube of 1211 to seal the case, the rest is just labor and a lot of extra insurance. You could easily have very small debris left behind that could later get sucked up into the top end and have more damage. Not to mention the damage that you could cause to the crank bearings.
Split the case, flush the bearings out with solvent, clean the crank and wash the cases. Pre lube the bearings and seal and re-assemble. If this is new to you then there is a lot more to know about proper case sealing, torque, etc. So don't be afraid to ask and get all the torque values and sequence before starting.
KO
If you are going to invest in a new top end, and I assume you are planning on purchasing a pair of new piston kits and getting your cylinders honed at a local machine shop (not a big expense but a very good idea). The deal is by the time you buy pistons, base gaskets, new o-rings for the head (you should do this unless just recently replaced), maybe consider wrist pin bearings as well. You go to all that expense but not split the case when you know you have debris down there (?). Other than about $20 for a new crank seal and a tube of 1211 to seal the case, the rest is just labor and a lot of extra insurance. You could easily have very small debris left behind that could later get sucked up into the top end and have more damage. Not to mention the damage that you could cause to the crank bearings.
Split the case, flush the bearings out with solvent, clean the crank and wash the cases. Pre lube the bearings and seal and re-assemble. If this is new to you then there is a lot more to know about proper case sealing, torque, etc. So don't be afraid to ask and get all the torque values and sequence before starting.
KO
I planned on doing the entire top end (all gaskets, wrist pins, clips, piston, rings, ext). I am getting free labor so I guess it would be dumb not to open it up and make sure. I just wanted to save my friend some time. Thanks for the help!!!!!!
