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3" Track for the Pro

I have a friend who's track sounds like a kid put baseball cards in the spokes. Anyone else experience this? Cant figure it out and cant see where it would be rubbing. Mine doesn't make this noise ever.
 
And when doing a drop and roll to the chancase any tricks to doing the same on part #12 drive pick up housing?

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You cant drop/roll a stock chaincase/or QD, unless you want to run the jackshaft inside the tunnel....
The aftermarket extended chaincases come with all that is needed to move the PTO side as well.



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You cant drop/roll a stock chaincase/or QD, unless you want to run the jackshaft inside the tunnel....
The aftermarket extended chaincases come with all that is needed to move the PTO side as well.



.

I thought TracksUSA has one for the QD that leaves the jackshaft in place.
 
I thought TracksUSA has one for the QD that leaves the jackshaft in place.

Scott, you are thinking of TracksCanada and his newly released Extended QD Backing plate. I think the photos are in this thread or one of the other 3" track threads in PRO Ride section.

Any welder that is proficient in GTAW (TIG) welding aluminum can do the chain case mod to fit the 7 Tooth drivers. However I will not endorse the use of a seven tooth driver, due to my own opinions on the subject.
 
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Not tying to split hairs to much here but isn't drop & roll different than just roll. Scott, when you asked your question to tracks Canada you said drop & roll and down & back. I guess what I'd like to know is if the center distance between the shafts on his plate are in fact "stock" dimension. Which would then just make it a roll to keep the jackshaft in the same position. No drop.

FYI, mountainhorse's key point was stock chain case/QD with DROP and roll.

I think I'm saying this all correctly.
 
If you drop and roll the chaincase and/or quickdrive you'd have to do something to the drive pick up housing on the PTO side right? Otherwise your shaft would be at a slight angle. I havent heard any mention of it through this whole thread. Atleast from the people who are modifying the stock chaincase...
 
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Yes Jones, you're correct. I suppose it's just implied by all that this would need to be done. Most of the "kits'"include a template to relocate the driveshaft housing on the PTO side.
 
If you drop and roll the chaincase and/or quickdrive you'd have to do something to the drive pick up housing on the PTO side right? Otherwise your shaft would be at a slight angle. I havent heard any mention of it through this whole thread.

Yes you have to do the same roll to both sides or you would never keep the track on / aligned. You can not have any misalignment (read, angularity in the drive shaft or jackshaft) or your performance suffers greatly as do the headaches from trying to fix the issues it causes.

For most of us that take on these advanced modifications regularly, it is understood that the one involves the other and thus not mentioned. I would not take a modification to the driveshaft lightly. You must do it right or the sled becomes useless. Likely why, despite all the downsides of running 7 tooth drivers, they have become mainstream now.
 
Not tying to split hairs to much here but isn't drop & roll different than just roll. Scott, when you asked your question to tracks Canada you said drop & roll and down & back. I guess what I'd like to know is if the center distance between the shafts on his plate are in fact "stock" dimension. Which would then just make it a roll to keep the jackshaft in the same position. No drop.

FYI, mountainhorse's key point was stock chain case/QD with DROP and roll.

I think I'm saying this all correctly.



I think your question is important. Don't worry about splitting hairs.

If the drive shaft is rolled back but not dropped, then the center to center may not change enough to need a longer Quick Drive belt. But if you think of a pendulum, it can't go back far before it goes up.

But, if it drops and rolls, then the C to C WILL CHANGE. Longer belt needed, in that case.
 
Ok I called Carls and I was under the assumption that their kit is a drop and roll when indeed it is not, the stock chaincase modification is just to make room for track clearance.

So clear as mud now...

Anybody besides LoudHandle (no offence but we all know your thoughts on the 7 tooth driver :face-icon-small-win ) think 7 tooth driver and modifying the stock chaincase is a bad route to go?
 
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Yes you have to do the same roll to both sides or you would never keep the track on / aligned. You can not have any misalignment (read, angularity in the drive shaft or jackshaft) or your performance suffers greatly as do the headaches from trying to fix the issues it causes.

For most of us that take on these advanced modifications regularly, it is understood that the one involves the other and thus not mentioned. I would not take a modification to the driveshaft lightly. You must do it right or the sled becomes useless. Likely why, despite all the downsides of running 7 tooth drivers, they have become mainstream now.

The Downsides from runing 8,s with the extended case are far worst than so called downside with 7, s.. I ran both and have first have knowledge how the 8,s were smacking every bump/chunk. It will take the glued together axle out much quicker and is annoying at best. The axle is totally exposed and not protected.
 
Yeah it sounds like Carls is the way to go. Just curious as to how much clearance vs a stock track there is around the bulkhead.
 
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