2015 Pro RMK - Spacers behind secondary..

[TheBreeze]

Anyone care to share how their sleds came set up from the dealership?

Specifically, what do you have for shims/spacers behind the secondary?

Me sled has a wide, and narrow spacer back there. Guessing a .060, and .030 but that is just eying them up. I already pulled a chord on the outside of the belt after 150 miles. Thinking the secondary needs to be moved in.

Anyone know offset specs? Looking for back of primary stationary, to outside of secondary sheave.

Thanks!

Also, a lot of belt dust stuck to primary clutch after only 150 miles.....

 

[cascadesnowjunky]

Something is not right. Take it to the dealer and have them check it out. You should not be getting belt dust and a pulled chord with such low miles. That is not normal for Polaris clutching. It could be in the primary clutch, maybe a sticky weight. It would be worth a trip if you have not messed with clutching much.

 

[winter brew]

Just a thought here...because I know Doo is guilty of this, and likely Polaris as well. Many belts take a crap the first couple rides because the anti-corrosion oil that is sprayed on everything is not properly cleaned from the clutches and belt. It impregnates the sheaves and belt and causes slippage.
Check alignment, but also clean the sheaves and a new belt. I have seen it dripping from the belt cover.
Hopefully its something simple.

 

[TheBreeze]

Sheaves and belt were both cleaned well prior to operation by me. Only clutching change was proper weights for elevation. Dust belt wasn't terrible, but seems others have talked about how the pro makes virtually none.

 

[NapaMatt]

Was the belt broke in..??

 

[tuneman]

Do you have the proper float of 0.060"? I know of several cases of no float from the factory. That'll pull cords from a belt quickly.

 

[TheBreeze]

Its floating properly. Only pulled like an inch of chord so far. I broke in the belt relatively easily for about 30 miles. On my cat's the cure for this was moving the secondary inward when pulling outer chords. Anyone know the offset spec using straight edge off back of primary and front of secondary?

 

[NapaMatt]

By chance was this when wis got dumped on with like 48"??

Some times belts get a little warm and like to have some cool down time..

Cut off the chord with razor blade so it does make it any worse.. Done this and went another 500 miles on them before..

 

[TheBreeze]

I wish I broke the belt in in 48" of fresh...

 

[kidder17]

My 15 RMK secondary was out of spec a lot from the factory. I use the LWT tool for checking. My front measurement was about .035"(spec. Is to be touching the tool, but no more than .025"). My back measurement was well over the .060" spec.

I had to install a .033" shim from Polaris to the inside of the secondary and then add another 3/8" spacer to the secondary bolt.

Now with the secondary pushed into the sled I am touching at the front measurement on the secondary, and have approx. .045" on the back measurement.


You need to do some measuring to see where you are at.



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[AdrenalineAddict]

You're thinking is correct, If your pulling outside cords move it in a bit, there's no need to get overly technical. My 2014 had a thick and thin spacer, I removed the thin spacer and my cord pulling problem was solved.

 

[goforbroke]

mine doesn't float at all. It doesn't move. How do I get it to float?

 

[kidder17]

mine doesn't float at all. It doesn't move. How do I get it to float?

My guess for a starting point would be to add a spacer to the secondary clutch bolt.


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[TheBreeze]

When removing a spacer, do you have to do anything else to adjust float, or can you just pull out the spacer and re install the secondary and the same amount of float is still there?

 

[Reg2view]

When removing a spacer, do you have to do anything else to adjust float, or can you just pull out the spacer and re install the secondary and the same amount of float is still there?

The two are related - if you add secondary shims, you need to add float spacers to maintain the same float. If you remove secondary shims, you may be adding float (I say may - if you're at zero float already, you don't know if you are tightening against the float washers, or the secondary shims.) Get a handful of both shims and float washers, and adjust to spec. If you are changing helixes, primaries, etc., in the future, they'll come in handy, too. Good luck.

 

[TheBreeze]

Got it. I have proper float, so whatever I take off the back, I need to add to the front. Got er dialed. Thanks guys!

 

[maxitout77]

Help me understand this guys:

Back in my Doo days, I used to run a floating secondary. There was a low dollar kit that was basically a bolt and machined spacer that allowed movement. LOTS of movement. You could slide the secondary back and forth at least a 1/4 inch. The sled never ate a belt, clutches worked flawlessly. So in theory, shouldn't that work here? The secondary will always self align with the belt. Why not take all the spacers to allow for maximum flotation?

 

[Reg2view]

Help me understand this guys:

Back in my Doo days, I used to run a floating secondary. There was a low dollar kit that was basically a bolt and machined spacer that allowed movement. LOTS of movement. You could slide the secondary back and forth at least a 1/4 inch. The sled never ate a belt, clutches worked flawlessly. So in theory, shouldn't that work here? The secondary will always self align with the belt. Why not take all the spacers to allow for maximum flotation?

With Summits, I did the doo float spacer mod, too. Per doo's race shop recommendations to racers in the 80's/90's, the secondary 'freezes' in the current jackshaft position under initial torque - throttle blips, etc., can allow it to then slide slightly to a different alignment position. If this theory still holds, too much float could allow it to initially remain in a more poorly aligned position. No idea what poo thinks, except they have recommend a limit on float.

Doo was never a big proponent of float, but it was all button clutches at the time, and very different motor mounts, motors, and the TRA, which could do a number on belts itself. The real reason Poo originally floated their secondary wasn't alignment, it was the jackshaft bearing that couldn't take axial force, just radial. So, they didn't shim the secondary tight. They still failed over time, even when you could lube them easily. Doo's jackshaft bearing could take both, and rarely failed, never had to be lubed. The chassis would beat you to death on a doo before the bearing failed. FWIW.