2014 polaris

[Blown Motor]

You would think they would be promoting these changes a little bit...unless they don't want to admit to making a mistake with the '13.

Polaris still believes that they didn't have any issues, that there were isolated instances of bad sleds out there. That is why you don't see them claiming huge changes to fix existing problems. I somewhat agree with this. I think for the number of sleds built and sold and being ridden that there were a handful, maybe even upwards of a 100 that had extraordinary crappy specs. But in the scheme of things that is probably still well within tolerances from a manufacturing standpoint.

We are accustomed to seeing way more than good on the forums. Every thread that starts out as good gets switched to a brand bash session, and every bad thread gets emphasized by people who heard about people who heard about a buddy. It is pretty evident that our industry would rather hear it than read or see it for themselves. 99% of questions in this thread are answered in plain text from the horses mouth here...

http://www.polaris.com/en-us/snowmobiles/mountain/800-pro-rmk-163/pages/features.aspx

It baffles me the things that get said in these forums from time to time.

 

[Blown Motor]

Also, some more food for thought, although we think we are the coolest, best, largest market out there..... Polaris sells almost 6 to 1 Trail, On&Off Trail, or Performance sleds than they do in the Mountain segment.

 

[RMK935VA]

Some of my friends at the dealership have had the opportunity to ride a 13 Pro with a Camoplast 3" by 162" track. They told me that it is amazing and the single best performance upgrade that you can make to the sled. I am putting one on mine next season or sooner if I can afford it. The drawback is poor trail riding (loud, vibration, etc.). I am OK with that since I don't ride the trail very much and I am not into flying down a bumpy trail anymore.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

from another thread I asked in:



Do the 14 PRO RMKs still have Carbon Fiber (breakining left and right on people all year) over structurs, Glued A-Arms and Driveshafts that also went down for the count often this year?

From the poo site.
"Adhesive bonded suspension components
By using technology to improve our manufacturing, we continue to build lighter stronger sleds. Bonded Lower Control Arms featuring forged aluminum ends and steel tubing. This process makes for a set of control arms that are 2 lbs. lighter."


With the little changes they had this year. lets hope one of the refinements were training the glue guys in the factory to properly glue the parts together or else we will have some rear suspension parts coming apart. Highly unlikely though as the rear skid will be tight enough to hold them together but will they start to spin a bit and become "egged out" like rear suspension mount holes or similar?

 

[Blown Motor]

Some of my friends at the dealership have had the opportunity to ride a 13 Pro with a Camoplast 3" by 162" track. They told me that it is amazing and the single best performance upgrade that you can make to the sled. I am putting one on mine next season or sooner if I can afford it. The drawback is poor trail riding (loud, vibration, etc.). I am OK with that since I don't ride the trail very much and I am not into flying down a bumpy trail anymore.

I am running a 162 x 15 x 3 on my 2013 Pro right now. Absolutely love it. But it is quite a bit more than just putting the track on for the average guy. Here is what you need to do in order on a 2013 Pro....

~Purchase Track
~Purchase New 7 Tooth Anti-Ratchet Drivers
~Purchase Anti Stab Kit
~Purchase some Lords Adhesive
~Remove Rear Suspension Bolts
~Removes Suspension
~Remove Drive Belt and Pulleys
~Remove Bearing Cover on PTO Side of Drive Shaft
~Remove Driveshaft and Track
~Remove old Drivers and Press on New Anti-Ratchets
~Cut Rails Back and Install Anti Stab Kit
~Remove the Brake Assembly
~Remove the Speedo Sensor
~Heat up to loosen glue and Remove the Drive Plate from Exhaust Side of Tunnel and Bulkhead
~Clean up glue residue from tunnel and from back of drive shaft plate.
~Install Track and Drive Shaft Into PTO hole in Bulkhead
(At this point the Exhaust Side of Drive Shaft is Floating in the space that the Drive Plate fills)
~Apply new Lords adhesive to the exact same spots that it was on before, both on the plate, and on the tunnel/bulkhead.
~You Can now slide the drive shaft plate over the end of the drive, and slide it back into place against the tunnel. Do this rather fast as Lords has a five minute or so cure time.

At this point you just re-install everything that you have taken off. It is easily the best track I have ever ran, but I was expecting a much simpler install until I dove into it. And it is absolutely 100% impossible to get the drive shaft back in without ruining the race of the bearing or something else, you have to heat and take that drive shaft plate off to do it correctly.

 

[pura vida]

just wait i'm sure the 14 motor will feel stronger than the 13, just like the 13 felt better than the 12 and the 12 better than the 11 some people can make themselves believe anything...

i had a good running 11 with an slp single and par 12.5:1 head. the pipe and head made a significant improvement. (had to add weight to the clutching) i now have a 13 the pulls the exact same clutching with slightly higher and considerably more consistent rpm. i can assure you from first hand experience from sea level to 5000+ feet and from the flats to the boondocking to the big hills, there is a noticeable difference between the 11 and 13. i am always skeptical for these types of claims due to what i call "buyer's bias" and try to convince myself the reason i'm personally "noticing" a difference is due to the same bias. but this is not the case with the 13, it is noticeably stronger than the 11. actually the 12 was also legitimately stronger than the 13 but i only rode a buddies a couple of times. i think there was a bigger increase between the 11 and 12 than the 12 and 13 but either way, i'm seriously enjoying the 13. now will there we a noticeable difference with the 14???, i doubt it. but then again maybe that is just me justifying not buying a new one...

pv

 

[ndC7M8]

Ltd

Quick drive complaints are well deserved. Three rides in a row we had one belt blow, then bottom pulley belt broke along with clutch side bearing failure on separate sled. After this on a blue bird day another belt failure and while changing out belt bottom bolt snapped off with 1 lb of pressure. All sleds are stock and less than 600 miles. Sorry but breaking down on every ride is more than enough for a bitch fest about the drive. Not to mention you can't get these sleds out of the back country on broken cogs. Trail absolutely but who rides on the trail on a mountain sled?

Like previously stated, you're considered part of the isolated case of sleds with problems. Sorry you've broken down, but I can't relate to you at all. Just under 600 trouble free miles on my 2013 Pro RMK 163". No belt drive issue, no driveshaft issue in the first 200+ miles without a collar, no glue separation issues, no engine issues. It just runs, and its a great sled, just like my 2011 that I put 700 miles on. Ran like a top and is currently doing the same for another guy that bought it from my dealer last month.

I personally know at least 11 guys (including me) who own 2013 Pro RMKs, and most of those were sold by my dealer. I personally know 2 people who had driveshaft failures, only 2 failures that my dealer had to address. I know ONE who had a belt drive failure, and guess what? That was on a turbo sled. I strongly encourage those of you that are having great luck with your sleds to comment and promote the great product that Polaris builds to counteract the negativity that people will so readily spread to the masses through forums like these.

The worst part is that there are gonna be people giving me bad rep on here for this post about Pros that are actually working and guys having fun and good luck with their sleds, and for confronting someone who thinks Polaris owes him big because something mechanical failed, like everything else mechanical in the world that eventually fails, in many cases, fails for no apparent reason. You need to understand Failure Analysis before you start tearing Polaris' credibility to shreds.

 

[sledneck_03]

Hey MARCUSO WTF??? you give me red for this post from sled rumors? And i even quoted it and said it was from there? douche

"The Pro RMK 800 is the #1 selling sled in the mountains. How can Polaris make it even better?

The 2014 Polaris Pro RMK gets an improved Quickdrive system, updated piston rings, small refinements and tighter tolerance thresholds to improve reliability.

The Quickdrive belt will be 25% stronger at hot temperatures and 40% stronger at milder heat. The specifications for each pulley will also have a higher production standard to reduce failures before and after the break in period. No tensioner and no machined pulleys.



Improvements to tolerances for the drive and jackshaft as well as torque specifications have changed to eliminate failures and premature shaft/bearing failures. A Service Bulletin was released last Friday for the 2013 Pro RMKs that will improve durability as well. The 2014 Polaris Pro RMK 600 and 800 will come with the driveshaft collar from the factory that was added to the 2013 models."

Sled rumors

 

[Leaf27]

Hey MARCUSO WTF??? you give me red for this post from sled rumors? And i even quoted it and said it was from there? douche

Maybe he has fat fingers!

I think that Poo will hit a home run with the 2014 line up. More than likely most of the issues with the 13 will be corrected.

 

[M8Chris]

Maybe the belt drive will last 600 miles instead of 400 now. In all seriousness I hope they have it fixed.

 

[danjdavid]

spoiled

can't believe all the complaining about the 2014 pros. I ride a 1998 rmk 700. How would you like to be on that? In these poor economic times, one of the best ways for a company to stay in business is to not spend money on changes to something that is great already.