I would have to agree with AKSNOWRIDER on clutch weights. Would think that a fuel starvation problem would cause det light to go off and or piston damage.
2011 Pro RMK 800 Top End Bogging
- Thread starter linden
- Start date
High RPM bogg
I have had the same issue three times now. I only have 160 miles on my 2012 Pro. At full rmp for a ten seconds or so it dies. Seems like it is running on one cylinder. Unfortunatley it happened again crossing water at the cottage this weekend. The water was COLD... and polaris didn't make the drain plugs in the bottom of the crankcase easy to get at.
I have had the same issue three times now. I only have 160 miles on my 2012 Pro. At full rmp for a ten seconds or so it dies. Seems like it is running on one cylinder. Unfortunatley it happened again crossing water at the cottage this weekend. The water was COLD... and polaris didn't make the drain plugs in the bottom of the crankcase easy to get at.
Hey everyone, sorry for the delayed response.
Finally got to take my Pro out and do some more testing etc. Before the ride this is what I had done:
-throttle freeplay tightened up (although there was very little play)
-tps checked, and dielectric grease applied
-primary spring, weights and rollers checked
-added injector cleaner to fuel
-stock silencer installed
-grounds were checked and reinstalled
-power valve hoses were cleaned out
Unfortunately, none of this solved the problem. The sled acted up all day. The bogging problem had changed though. Using the playback function, I find that on a big pull it will start out at 8100 approx. and fluctuate a bit from 7900 to 8150, then maybe 8 seconds in at WOT the rpms would kick down to 7700, then back up to about 8000, then kick back down farther to 7400, then back up to 7900ish, and then kick down again to 6850. Near the end of the pull, it would be down to about 6800 rpm, felt powerless and I would have to turn out.
This was all running about 5600 to 6500 feet, with 62 gram weights.
I also tested in on the lake, and using the playback function, found that it would start out at 8050, hold it for maybe 3 seconds, then sink down 7700 and hold 7700 for about 15 seconds.
Now it was funny to me that is would act differently on a big pull and going across the lake (these are both very similar altitudes). Could it have to do with sled orientation?
My first day on it felt like it was running out of fuel when it bogged, now it feels a lot different, as it catches itself and regains rpm, but then kicks down once again. Also, about 1 in 3 times, when you start it up, it will idle very low and the display won't even show up, and it will stay at a very low idle just fine. Tap the throttle and it will idle normal and the display will turn on. Could this once in a while low idle be related to the rpm loss?
I just went through a similar problem on my M8, it would hold rpm, then it would kick down, then build back up etc. That turned out to be the rollers in the primary, this problem on my pro seems rather similar. But the weights, rollers, and spring in the primary are in great shape.
Anyone have any other ideas? I am going to try and pick up some 64 gram weights and try them out. My dealer is 5.5 hours away so it is a hassle getting the sled to them, but I will do it if necessary.
Input is greatly appreciated! From the way it sounds, a number of people are having this "bogging"/rpm loss problem and it would be great if we could solve it for everyone!
Finally got to take my Pro out and do some more testing etc. Before the ride this is what I had done:
-throttle freeplay tightened up (although there was very little play)
-tps checked, and dielectric grease applied
-primary spring, weights and rollers checked
-added injector cleaner to fuel
-stock silencer installed
-grounds were checked and reinstalled
-power valve hoses were cleaned out
Unfortunately, none of this solved the problem. The sled acted up all day. The bogging problem had changed though. Using the playback function, I find that on a big pull it will start out at 8100 approx. and fluctuate a bit from 7900 to 8150, then maybe 8 seconds in at WOT the rpms would kick down to 7700, then back up to about 8000, then kick back down farther to 7400, then back up to 7900ish, and then kick down again to 6850. Near the end of the pull, it would be down to about 6800 rpm, felt powerless and I would have to turn out.
This was all running about 5600 to 6500 feet, with 62 gram weights.
I also tested in on the lake, and using the playback function, found that it would start out at 8050, hold it for maybe 3 seconds, then sink down 7700 and hold 7700 for about 15 seconds.
Now it was funny to me that is would act differently on a big pull and going across the lake (these are both very similar altitudes). Could it have to do with sled orientation?
My first day on it felt like it was running out of fuel when it bogged, now it feels a lot different, as it catches itself and regains rpm, but then kicks down once again. Also, about 1 in 3 times, when you start it up, it will idle very low and the display won't even show up, and it will stay at a very low idle just fine. Tap the throttle and it will idle normal and the display will turn on. Could this once in a while low idle be related to the rpm loss?
I just went through a similar problem on my M8, it would hold rpm, then it would kick down, then build back up etc. That turned out to be the rollers in the primary, this problem on my pro seems rather similar. But the weights, rollers, and spring in the primary are in great shape.
Anyone have any other ideas? I am going to try and pick up some 64 gram weights and try them out. My dealer is 5.5 hours away so it is a hassle getting the sled to them, but I will do it if necessary.
Input is greatly appreciated! From the way it sounds, a number of people are having this "bogging"/rpm loss problem and it would be great if we could solve it for everyone!
S
squirle
New member
ECM thoughts???
I'm having same issues, 2011 pro 1000 miles. took to dealer to have engine codes checked, said fuel selection code coming in. resistors are fine, dealer thoughts were to try new ecm. I'm out of warrenty so not yet, $400. exhaust valves cleaned 400 miles ago, dealer just installed new fuel filter so I'm hoping for a positive change from that. Any thoughts on bad ECM???? can this cause small problems, bogs, etc. Also does anyone know what RPM you hit the rev limiter???? Thanks for the help, gotta be the right answer somewhere out there.. Love the Pro
I'm having same issues, 2011 pro 1000 miles. took to dealer to have engine codes checked, said fuel selection code coming in. resistors are fine, dealer thoughts were to try new ecm. I'm out of warrenty so not yet, $400. exhaust valves cleaned 400 miles ago, dealer just installed new fuel filter so I'm hoping for a positive change from that. Any thoughts on bad ECM???? can this cause small problems, bogs, etc. Also does anyone know what RPM you hit the rev limiter???? Thanks for the help, gotta be the right answer somewhere out there.. Love the Pro
AKSNOWRIDER: What is the rev limiter at? I used the record function and confirmed that I am not hitting the rev limiter, unless it is at 8150-8200. On a long pull, the sled would hold 8000-8050 and then kick down to 7800, then back up to 8000, then kick down again to 7500, then repeat this sequence til it kicked down to 6700.
Regarding your clutching input. I tested it on the lake the same day, at approx. 6000 feet, and it would start out at 7900, slowly drop and hold 7700 for about 15 seconds WOT. I am confident I am not hitting the limiter, so should I try 60 gram weights? I want to be sure about this as a set of weights are $90.
Any and ALL input is greatly appreciated!
Sounds like clutching to me. I would replace wieghts, stay the same wieght, check rollers and actually pull primary spring. More than one has thought spring was okay, but once removed found a broken spring. 2 cents.
I took off the primary cover and inspected the weights and rollers, both are very smooth and in good condition. The stock black primary spring was taken out and is in good condition. I have been reading though and a quite a few guys are having these stock springs "sack out", so I have a SLP blue/pink spring on the way. And I will test it with the new one.
Might test it out this weekend hopefully with the new spring and a few other adjustments. If its still not running well its going to the dealer.
Dmill: Please keep us updated and I'll do the same, as we have a very similar problem.
I have a 2011 rmk with 700 mi that has the exact same problem!!
It usually just does it when the motor is working hard like on a long side hill or through deep powder when running WOT. I have never seen it pull more than 8150 rpm it usually runs around 8050. You will be going along at WOT and the motor will cut out like someone hit the kill switch for about two seconds then it will come back and run like hell again for about 5 seconds mabe ten if your lucky. Then it cuts out again and usually will not get back to 8000 rpms it will fall to around 7200 or so and then cut out and fall to about 6500 then you just run it about half throttle praying you make it around that next tree to turn out! Then if you get it to hard pack like on a road and run it WOT it doesn't miss a beat. It seems to be just under alot of load like mabe it's a sensor saying it's working to hard or getting hot. The other day we had four feet of powder and you had to go wide open to go anywhere and it was doing it all day long! Got me stuck a bunch and it would take 45 min to get out. Over that perioud of time it would cool down and then when I would go again it will run awsome for about two minutes and pull 8050 and then cut out again and you were looking for a down hill slope to save yourself.
I have done the following.
-replaced the spring in the secondary
-replaced the spring in the primary
-changed to 68 gram weights
-went back to 62 gram werights
I don't think it is a clutching issue it seems to be a sensor or somthing saying it is working to hard or getting to hot. Or mabe a injector because it is like someone is just shutting the fuel off for a couple of seconds. But I don't understand why a injector would only cut out under heavy loading.
I would clean the snow and ice off the air intake vents off while it was doing it and that didn't make any differance.
I do believe my thumb warmer is not working but still when the sled is not pulling hard (under load, deep snow or side hilling) it has no problems at wide open throttle.
Next I am going to try cleaning the tubethat runs from the sylinoide to the power valve I hear it can gum up and not let the sylinoide open. But this problem seems like somthing else because its not like it is just starts running poorly it is like someone hit your kill switch and then turned it back on.
And the engin light has never come on.
So I think we are in the same boat on this one. I will keep you posted if i figure it out. Hopefully we can save some money working on this together.
It usually just does it when the motor is working hard like on a long side hill or through deep powder when running WOT. I have never seen it pull more than 8150 rpm it usually runs around 8050. You will be going along at WOT and the motor will cut out like someone hit the kill switch for about two seconds then it will come back and run like hell again for about 5 seconds mabe ten if your lucky. Then it cuts out again and usually will not get back to 8000 rpms it will fall to around 7200 or so and then cut out and fall to about 6500 then you just run it about half throttle praying you make it around that next tree to turn out! Then if you get it to hard pack like on a road and run it WOT it doesn't miss a beat. It seems to be just under alot of load like mabe it's a sensor saying it's working to hard or getting hot. The other day we had four feet of powder and you had to go wide open to go anywhere and it was doing it all day long! Got me stuck a bunch and it would take 45 min to get out. Over that perioud of time it would cool down and then when I would go again it will run awsome for about two minutes and pull 8050 and then cut out again and you were looking for a down hill slope to save yourself.
I have done the following.
-replaced the spring in the secondary
-replaced the spring in the primary
-changed to 68 gram weights
-went back to 62 gram werights
I don't think it is a clutching issue it seems to be a sensor or somthing saying it is working to hard or getting to hot. Or mabe a injector because it is like someone is just shutting the fuel off for a couple of seconds. But I don't understand why a injector would only cut out under heavy loading.
I would clean the snow and ice off the air intake vents off while it was doing it and that didn't make any differance.
I do believe my thumb warmer is not working but still when the sled is not pulling hard (under load, deep snow or side hilling) it has no problems at wide open throttle.
Next I am going to try cleaning the tubethat runs from the sylinoide to the power valve I hear it can gum up and not let the sylinoide open. But this problem seems like somthing else because its not like it is just starts running poorly it is like someone hit your kill switch and then turned it back on.
And the engin light has never come on.
So I think we are in the same boat on this one. I will keep you posted if i figure it out. Hopefully we can save some money working on this together.
I am having the same problems as Linden, Just started this weekend in Revy. Sled has 800 miles on it. I am going to change fuel filter and valve hoses to start with. I am also going to replace tps and injectors one at a time just to kinda isolate the problem if i can.
I had all these same symtoms on my 11'. Dealer change fuel filter, injectors, wire harness. i messed with clutching and nothing helped. as last resort i cleaned my power valves (500 miles) and problem has been gone ever since (1800 miles now). also cleaned port(hole) going into cylinder, it was totally pugged. hope this helps as it is very frustrating. Randy
i have a 2011 sba that had a mysterious dead cylinder every once in a while and noticed that a plug wire slightly rubbed on the powervalve hose clamp causing a short, its the 2nd one that i know of that this has happend to just something to check out too.
W
W3STMAN
New member
My pro rmk 2011 is having a huge bog and it wont rev over 7400.
It runs fine all the way to 3/4 throttle but at wot its like hitting the switch.
Here is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiqBoyQTlus
Anyone else having the same problem?
I usually have the sled in the garage every night but i left it outside for one night an this is how it runs the next day.
It has run fine with the same setup before, most of the time. It has have the bog you talked about it cuts out at heavy loading and then comes back, but only at very steep long climbs when everything was very hot.
It runs fine all the way to 3/4 throttle but at wot its like hitting the switch.
Here is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiqBoyQTlus
Anyone else having the same problem?
I usually have the sled in the garage every night but i left it outside for one night an this is how it runs the next day.
It has run fine with the same setup before, most of the time. It has have the bog you talked about it cuts out at heavy loading and then comes back, but only at very steep long climbs when everything was very hot.
I
IceCap
Well-known member
Mine is similar, I have had it in to the dealer twice, The first time they replaced the TPS and it didn't change the bog, the next time they replaced the ECU and it has not improved at all.
The problem that i am having is that when you sit and have a break then start the sled up and let it warm up a bit then hit a steep amd deep climb WOT for about 30 second plus then no bog runs perfect. You can usually do a second pull without a bog.
However when the sled is now really warmed up and you do a third or fourth pull it bogs
after a few seconds of WOT.
IMO I think it has to do with pipe heat, I will be asking the dealer to change ot the pipe sensor next time.
BTW I am running 2011 pro 163" 13:1 PA head and HPS can 800 plus miles and I had the same bog right from new completely stock.
So I don't think it has anything to do with Head or can and I am not over reving either.
These sleds are really simple compared to a newer automobiles and these Polaris techs rely on that digital wrench only and don't use labscopes to diagnose intermittent problems.
Come on guys have some pride in what you do.... and fix these things right the first time!!
The problem that i am having is that when you sit and have a break then start the sled up and let it warm up a bit then hit a steep amd deep climb WOT for about 30 second plus then no bog runs perfect. You can usually do a second pull without a bog.
However when the sled is now really warmed up and you do a third or fourth pull it bogs
after a few seconds of WOT.
IMO I think it has to do with pipe heat, I will be asking the dealer to change ot the pipe sensor next time.
BTW I am running 2011 pro 163" 13:1 PA head and HPS can 800 plus miles and I had the same bog right from new completely stock.
So I don't think it has anything to do with Head or can and I am not over reving either.
These sleds are really simple compared to a newer automobiles and these Polaris techs rely on that digital wrench only and don't use labscopes to diagnose intermittent problems.
Come on guys have some pride in what you do.... and fix these things right the first time!!
I was wrong, sorry, sled is not running good only lasted for a short ride, took it back out for another ride and same problem, took it back to the dealer and they put new fuel pump and fond one of the small holes in the Ves system was plugged so bad it did not even look like it was their,this was missed the first time when they checked the valves, have put over 200 miles on sled and is running good, no bog on long pulls at all. Running from 3000ft to 8500ft, only use Polaris Gold, and non ethanol fuel. Dealer thinks the plugged hole was causing most of the problem.
This is really B.S. I have a 2012 pro and it will, on occasion bog, under load at full throttle. It feels like you either run out of fuel or hit the kill switch. Get off the throttle and back on and it seems to go away. I thought it was something with my machine until I took my buddies 2012 with only 300 miles on it out for a few days. Does the exact same thing WTF? Very intermittent, and always seems to happen when the machine is hot. Gets me in some bad places sometimes. Gonna be watching this thread very closely, hopefully someone comes up with a solution.
bog
glassman. i know exactly what you are going through. i have a 12 163 and it has had a slight bog since new. i work at a dealership and have changed everything possible on this unit. the season has been unusually warm this year and the warmer it gets in the spring the worse it gets. starts out great for about an hour then gradually gets worse to the point that it is almost unridable. as the ambient temps get warmer the worse this pig runs. i am really starting to think that this is a fuel temp problem. no one in our group rides like i do. i never shut mine off all day. everyone else takes breaks. i think my fuel is getting hot from the coolers and the pump is airating my fuel. i had a pro 600 155 do the same thing to the girl riding it and her temps were 180f or so from slow tree riding. i took it and rode the crap out of it and cooled it down and it ran fine after. i took my tank off this weekend and insulated the front and bottom with thick foil tape. i also replace my stator so here is hoping. i also will be watching this thread closely.
glassman. i know exactly what you are going through. i have a 12 163 and it has had a slight bog since new. i work at a dealership and have changed everything possible on this unit. the season has been unusually warm this year and the warmer it gets in the spring the worse it gets. starts out great for about an hour then gradually gets worse to the point that it is almost unridable. as the ambient temps get warmer the worse this pig runs. i am really starting to think that this is a fuel temp problem. no one in our group rides like i do. i never shut mine off all day. everyone else takes breaks. i think my fuel is getting hot from the coolers and the pump is airating my fuel. i had a pro 600 155 do the same thing to the girl riding it and her temps were 180f or so from slow tree riding. i took it and rode the crap out of it and cooled it down and it ran fine after. i took my tank off this weekend and insulated the front and bottom with thick foil tape. i also replace my stator so here is hoping. i also will be watching this thread closely.
couple things i've found '11 assault 1500miles of hard riding.....
the master ground at the front left of the motor is a poor design. Crimping 12 ground wires into 2 lugs then securing to to a glued aluminumn support that also attaches the bumper is WRONG.
eventually you will bang that bumper and it will loosen the ground..PERIOD.
Each hit to that bumper will make the grounding issue worse.
the master ground at the front left of the motor is a poor design. Crimping 12 ground wires into 2 lugs then securing to to a glued aluminumn support that also attaches the bumper is WRONG.
eventually you will bang that bumper and it will loosen the ground..PERIOD.
Each hit to that bumper will make the grounding issue worse.
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