When mine stuck twice on every rotation is was missing track clips. Warped disc you should feel in the brake lever. And the dealer said they checked the bearing on that side.
2010 cat 800 completely puzzled someone please help.
- Thread starter Destroyer
- Start date
think i got my dealer convinced to swap tracks so i will keep you posted on if it fixes the issue
I have a track sitting on the shelf with missing clips. Made it 500 miles on the track from new before it rubbed on the rail tips enough to yank the clips off and stab on the rail tips.
I was sitting there with a track torn almost completely in half, wondering what happened. Closer inspection showed that all of the clips were missing and the windows were damaged. Yet closer inspection showed that my shiny new rail caps that I had installed 48 hours earlier had been chewed right off, and exposed the sharp rail tips to the track.
Any chance the vibration has something to do with your track trying to stab itself again?
I have seen a couple tracks that have been out of time from the lugs to the drivers. It is not very common but what happens is the track lugs will start to climb on the drivers and cause a tight spot when turning.
Hope this helps Jeff @ funoutfitters.com
866-531-0123
Hope this helps Jeff @ funoutfitters.com
866-531-0123
That's been checked
Add another victim to this scenario! Did CAT forget to loctite these damn bolts! 09 HCR with sheared off bolt heads x 3. I now have a new helix and bolts that have been put back in with the correct loctite.... We will see
Just looked sled over and found a piece of the helix was broke off. Not sure what was the cause but I only have 300 miles on it. Hope I can get it fixed by tomorrow.
S
shaneo11
Member
I but rock rollers and the shift assist in. I put 10x24 screws in instead of those torx screws. The next ride my screws backed out of the secondary. bought new blue loctite and new screws thinking that was the problem.....the screws backed out again. It vibrated really bad through my footwells....so I went to the dealer and got the torx screws with the already hardened on loctite and it's worked well so far. So check the screws in the secondary/helix.
So...Dealer replaced the diamond drive, secondary clutch, changed plugs, cleaned and inpected power valve opperation. Checked if the drive shaft was straight on a lathe, etc. Checked crank run out. And it still grinds bad.
i doubled my girlfriend for a bit yesterday( i'm 160lbs, she's 135) and in wet heavy snow I could hardly move. The sled would just grind and shake. I could ussually just throttle through it by myself, but with the extra load even when I pinned it, the sled would grind harder and not accelerate. Someone at 250lbs would not be able to ride this sled anywhere but on the trail.
it's been suggested to check the brake caliper and see if it's not opening all the way. Maybe it generates enough heat to warp the rotor and causes these symptoms.
Someone also suggested the drive lugs hitting the cross shaft for the front shock in the rear skid. I checked and it doesn't appear that anything is hitting.
i doubled my girlfriend for a bit yesterday( i'm 160lbs, she's 135) and in wet heavy snow I could hardly move. The sled would just grind and shake. I could ussually just throttle through it by myself, but with the extra load even when I pinned it, the sled would grind harder and not accelerate. Someone at 250lbs would not be able to ride this sled anywhere but on the trail.
it's been suggested to check the brake caliper and see if it's not opening all the way. Maybe it generates enough heat to warp the rotor and causes these symptoms.
Someone also suggested the drive lugs hitting the cross shaft for the front shock in the rear skid. I checked and it doesn't appear that anything is hitting.
sucks
i have seen this s couple of time this year.if the motor mount rubber breaks free you well fell alot of vibrating in you feet.
When it started I was just slowly going across a field in some soft snow, about a 1/4 mile from our farm. I know every rock tree, and weed in that field. There was nothing to hit there. The day before I put about 20 miles on going around our same field just playing around. Everything worked perfect.
I haven't hit anything or crashed real hard either with this sled. But I guess anything is possible.
I haven't hit anything or crashed real hard either with this sled. But I guess anything is possible.
For fire and theft at the moment. it would be easy to insure for collision because nothing is wrong with it. Clutch alignment is perfect.
time to demand ac take the sled back and get you a new one. you and the dealer have been messing with this for too long at this point and basicly ruined what little season you had. just my observation. you are alot more pacient than i ever would be in a situation like this. ski
has to be clutch
My .02 is that you have clutching problems, you did not say what the rpm's are doing with the 2 of you on the sled. If it would be in the track or drive shaft area it should act like you have the brake set, when you pin the flipper the sled should bog just about to the point your engine stalls or you should smoke a belt. The only other thing I can think of is that your drivers are slipping on the shaft,I would think they should have seen that when they had the shaft out to check for true.
My .02 is that you have clutching problems, you did not say what the rpm's are doing with the 2 of you on the sled. If it would be in the track or drive shaft area it should act like you have the brake set, when you pin the flipper the sled should bog just about to the point your engine stalls or you should smoke a belt. The only other thing I can think of is that your drivers are slipping on the shaft,I would think they should have seen that when they had the shaft out to check for true.
It didn't happen once in 460 miles. It started after the clutch bushing and diamond drive bearing failed. I changed the 44/40 helix to the 36 that I use out west and it didn't change a thing. Tried new 060 belts (what I'm suppost to use). Tried an 046. no change. The sled used to over rev slightly at home now it doesn't at all. RPM's are low. It won't pull out of the grindy zone under load. Even when you pin it. Sometimes when you pin it, it will rev/speed up a bit, then grind down, come up a little higher, grind down again pull up even higher, grind down once more and then be WOT with lower RPM than normal. It's really weird.
This sounds terrible
I just read you whole thread and cannot remember if you said they changed your primary clutch. To me this sounds like your cam arms are out of alignment so you are not getting full extension out of them and with the bushings foing bad it messes up your rollers so your sled does not get the proper rpms. My 02 cat has this problem if you do not keep a eye on your bushings in the cam arm. This would nto explain the grinding but it might be part of your rpm issue.
I just read you whole thread and cannot remember if you said they changed your primary clutch. To me this sounds like your cam arms are out of alignment so you are not getting full extension out of them and with the bushings foing bad it messes up your rollers so your sled does not get the proper rpms. My 02 cat has this problem if you do not keep a eye on your bushings in the cam arm. This would nto explain the grinding but it might be part of your rpm issue.
Bushing in the movabale sheeve went so they replaced the entire primary clutch. Problem is still there
I'm with the other guys, tell them to give you a new sled and let them deal with it.
