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2007 800 issues

I know there is many posts on possible problems but i figured i would state my symptoms and what i have checked to maybe get me some direct ideas... I have 2007 800 summit x 159 and am having some issues. It started a couple rides ago and i noticed my sled wasnt pulling above 7200-7400 so i did some reading and found the rave hose on the mag side and fixed with a small tube on the nipple under the large rubber hose and tightened with a gear clamp...the sled ran amazing then after 1/2 day of riding the rpms were all over the place...

on the trail full throttle they would get more and more bogged down decreasing very slow to 5500 rpm then hold, then let out and wot it again and it would slowly crawl to 7000 very slowly

i checked the plugs and they seemed good maybe almost a little lean, but replaced them and the sled still acts the same...its almost like a diesel when the turbo doesnt light

so my plan of attack is cleaning/ checking the rave valves and also the checking the dpm over and remove it to clean it....? also will check the compression over

i know it cant be clutch related because changing clickers doesnt affect the top rpm still just seems really boggy...?

can rave valves work fine then all the sudden just junk out on a guy, the sled was really rippen then turned to crap in a big hurry?

thanks zach
 
The '07 had serious problems with breaking the ears off the RAVES or breaking the springs to them. Pull them and find out (assuming you haven't broken anything in the clutch). I highly HIGHLY recommend Tom's RAVE mod to avoid future issues (Tom's Snowmobile in Sierra City, CA). He pins the guillotines and loses the vacuum so they work off gas only and are more consistent with less heat soak.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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Check the primary for wear on the rollers, buttons/sliders and the bushings and ensure di-electric grease in the computer brains above the pipe..
 
hey guys thanks for the ideas..

tonight i started to check things over...

the results... compression was very close in both cylinders although i think a liitle low...i got right around 106 in both but i know it depends on the gauge you are using...while im thinking about this..when checking compression in one cylinder the opposite cylinder's spark plug should be out too right?

also i have been running ngk BR9ECS since those were the plugs the sled came with when i bought it but also what is the spark plug gap supposed to be?

next i checked over the rave valve tubing and my fix on the mag side and all looked good. I then pulled the raves and they were both gummy so i cleaned them up with solvent and then i found a broken spring on the mmag side one of the two below the bellows...could this be my problem child? either way i am planning to replace both because to me it looks like a broken spring would misalign the valves and slide with more restriction...i also noticed the bellow on the mag side had what seemed like exhaust film on it where as the pto side was pretty clean...is this normal? i tested the bellow and it moved freely and it held air so i dont know what to think..maybe sneaking by due to the misalignment with different length springs? also when cleaning i noticed a lot of carbon build up on the half moons...do these seat into something internally?

wb-- i had the dealership check the runout but i am getting a dial indicator to check myself...could this really be caused by bad crank run out

ka--rollers and pins were just replaced, the orings on the buttons are getting a little smashed out but otherwise good to go...
 
Like I said - Rave spring and YES that IS your problem. Re-read my post if you want a RAVE setup that will last this time. Even the small springs are tossed in favor of one over the bellow like on the older and BETTER design so you don't ever have to worry about that again.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Plug gap 0.028 +or- .002". ECS plugs are not adjustable so get the right ones.
 
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Fyi... I read a post a while back on putting the rave valve in a ziplock bag, poking a hole to leave the non contact area out of the bag (or unscrew the bellows) spraying in oven cleaner to and letting it sit for 20 minutes or so to remove the carbon build up. I tried it once and it worked pretty good. Might as well if you are replacing the springs.
 
thanks guys...vail guy i ended up soaking with parts cleaning solvent and lightley knocking off the crbon with a knife and repeating the process...looks to me like it worked well and didnt damage anything...

gman...i will look into that mod maybe shoot for end of season or something like that..our riding season is alot shorter than most unless a guy can afford to trailer to the mountains weekly...

i will post the results when i get it fixed and a little test run on it before we head to the breckenridge on the 4th...

Zach
 
thanks guys...vail guy i ended up soaking with parts cleaning solvent and lightley knocking off the crbon with a knife and repeating the process...looks to me like it worked well and didnt damage anything...

gman...i will look into that mod maybe shoot for end of season or something like that..our riding season is alot shorter than most unless a guy can afford to trailer to the mountains weekly...

i will post the results when i get it fixed and a little test run on it before we head to the breckenridge on the 4th...

Zach

Tom does a swap out with you so there is ZERO down time. Pay for them and he sends a set to you and you send yours back to him.

As for Vailguy's post, yes, that is the fastest/best method as I've outlined on Dootalk for years.

Have FUN!

G MAN

PS - Tom's (tell him I sent you!): http://www.shoptomssnowmobile.com/index.htm
 
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My bad GMAN,
I didn't realize that was your technique.
Sincerest form of flattery...

Actually I can't take credit for the slit plastic bag to protect the bellows; that was another good tip from a Dootalker; I was just covering them with newspaper and spraying with Easy Off. The oven cleaner works far better than carb cleaners or other solvents and way more enviro friendly too (it's just a caustic solution with no VOC's).

Cheers,

G
 
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