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2006 m6 bad bog

Did you try running it with all the handlebar switches unhooked? (kill switch and all warmers) spark plug sockets fit tight? Try ohming the plug wires and role them around while testing to see if it jumps around- looks for partial connection


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Did you try running it with all the handlebar switches unhooked? (kill switch and all warmers) spark plug sockets fit tight? Try ohming the plug wires and role them around while testing to see if it jumps around- looks for partial connection


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I'll try unhooking the handwarmers, already bypassed the TSS. Ordered a new coil and caps today.
 
toooo short some where

all the early m series were prone to having electrical shorts, ok grounding out, the main culprit was the tail ligh wire, after that wiring harness under the gas tank, and bad handlbar wires and switch's and the symptoms were as you describe and would come and go.

I would guess you have an electrical issue, broken engine parts normally are consistently bad, running good at low rpm about knocks out internal engine issues. For sure take a good look at the power valves, unhooked / frayed sticking cable/cables, stuck valves.........all can throw you for a loop.
 
IGNITION COIL (Primary)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU
to the ignition coil.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange
lead; then connect the black meter lead to the
orange/black lead.
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
0.24-0.36 ohm.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary)
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be
between 6800-10,200 ohms

SPARK-PLUG CAP
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each
end of the spark-plug cap.
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between
4000-6000 ohms.
 
if you go behind that aluminum plate under the handlebars, you can unhook all the handlebar stuff, down close to the tunnel is a three wire plug for the taillight as well. unhook them all and try it, if it clears up hook them back up one at a time until the problem shows back up. and yes you can run it with everything unhooked, been running mine that way for years.
I don't mean to discredit anyone but problems with the exhaust valves is really unlikely, stop wasting time chasing them
 
IGNITION COIL (Primary)
1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU
to the ignition coil.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange
lead; then connect the black meter lead to the
orange/black lead.
4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between
0.24-0.36 ohm.
IGNITION COIL (Secondary)
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension
wire; then connect the black meter lead to the
other high tension wire.
4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be
between 6800-10,200 ohms

SPARK-PLUG CAP
1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension
wires.
2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.
3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each
end of the spark-plug cap.
4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between
4000-6000 ohms.

thank you
 
Damn good thread here guys! Awesome to see the OP "mi boondocker" knows his way around some electrical trouble shooting!! Very rare!!
 
IGNITION COIL (Primary)

1. Disconnect the double wire plug from the ECU

to the ignition coil.

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/orange

lead; then connect the black meter lead to the

orange/black lead.

4. Ignition coil primary resistance must be between

0.24-0.36 ohm.

IGNITION COIL (Secondary)

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension

wires.

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

3. Connect the red meter lead to one high tension

wire; then connect the black meter lead to the

other high tension wire.

4. Ignition coil secondary resistance must be

between 6800-10,200 ohms



SPARK-PLUG CAP

1. Remove the spark-plug caps from the high tension

wires.

2. Set the selector in the OHMS position.

3. In turn on each cap, touch a tester lead to each

end of the spark-plug cap.

4. Spark-plug cap resistance must be between

4000-6000 ohms.



Great post here!!!
 
Just checked with meter, caps are 5.2 k ohm good, coil lead to lead with caps off is 7.5k ohm good, now the connector blk/org and org/blk to the ECU reads from .1 megaohm and continuosly climbs to O.L. Bad primary coil in stator? or ECU?

It is starting to look like post number 18 was on the correct track.
 
2cd519929135e275fa7729cdc4a8839b.jpg

bca33163c1a85473a166509d6cfafb1a.jpg


dd21424611d8d5b558a30927bc12b86a.jpg


Let me know if this works. Computer kept locking up on me so I took pictures


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I had the same issue with my 09 m1000.
I found that one of my spark plug caps would rub
On my steering post and and at higher rpm it would
Arc across and make the engine miss and bog down.
Just a possibility.
 
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