2004 Ford 6.0 powerstroke??
- Thread starter ouch
- Start date
I have a 05 6.0 and from once owning a 7.3 man do i love this thing. It pulls hard and gets good mileage even with 37'' tires. I hate how everyone is telling you to run, well that B.S. I would go for a 05 and up because the interior is different and the turbos are as well. good luck hope this helps.
H
Hiterhard
Well-known member
had the same truck, two tranny's and injector issues. Turns out there about $400 bucks an injector so I sent the truck down the road. I actually loved the truck, but my wallet hated it. I'd go with a early model 03 with the 7.3. All of the features of the 04, not near the problems.
Run, Forest, Run
In 2005, I jumped ship from Chevy to Ford... my dad almost disowned me. Custom ordered in February and picked it up in March.
So, it now has 37,000 miles. It has been in numerous times for oil leaks. They replaced the rear main twice before deciding it was a machining issue on the block - new engine at 25k miles. I think the turbo went out around 18k miles. Next leaks were due to sensors.
Just got back from a trip to Montana. Blew a turbo hose south of Kalispell. Now my coolant is mysteriously disappearing - it goes in Monday (engine is still under warranty).
This thing is bone stock and has seen easy duty (just bought the fifth wheel last fall - 2 trips, sold my enclosed 4 place shortly after getting the truck).
It has been a miserable piece of junk. I'm trying to decide whether to buy an extended warranty and "see what happens" or get a used Dodge or GMC. Love the Cummins and the MPG, loathe the truck's interior and auto-tranny (I do like the Ford Tranny, though!). GM is nice except for the back seat is a LOT smaller (Crew Cab).
Too bad I can't buy a new one these days - $$$ aside, the DPF's make them all losers in the MPG market - might as well buy a gasser
In 2005, I jumped ship from Chevy to Ford... my dad almost disowned me. Custom ordered in February and picked it up in March.
So, it now has 37,000 miles. It has been in numerous times for oil leaks. They replaced the rear main twice before deciding it was a machining issue on the block - new engine at 25k miles. I think the turbo went out around 18k miles. Next leaks were due to sensors.
Just got back from a trip to Montana. Blew a turbo hose south of Kalispell. Now my coolant is mysteriously disappearing - it goes in Monday (engine is still under warranty).
This thing is bone stock and has seen easy duty (just bought the fifth wheel last fall - 2 trips, sold my enclosed 4 place shortly after getting the truck).
It has been a miserable piece of junk. I'm trying to decide whether to buy an extended warranty and "see what happens" or get a used Dodge or GMC. Love the Cummins and the MPG, loathe the truck's interior and auto-tranny (I do like the Ford Tranny, though!). GM is nice except for the back seat is a LOT smaller (Crew Cab).
Too bad I can't buy a new one these days - $$$ aside, the DPF's make them all losers in the MPG market - might as well buy a gasser
L
lynxer292b
Member
In this market there are a lot of used trucks out there. You can find the truck you want at the price you want to pay. The 6.0 is a horrible engine. No questions asked. Look at how long Ford used the 7.3. Look at how long they used the 6.0. If the 6.0 was such a great engine they would still be using it. The 7.3 trucks are getting a little old now, but you can still find a nice low mile 7.3 Ford for a good price and not have all the head aches of a 6.0. Rumor on the trail is Ford will be coming with a cummins soon, but until then we will drive 7.3's. As a used car dealer I have bought, driven and sold many of these trucks. Hands down the 7.3 is the best for Ford. The duramax engines are very strong too. Nice trucks. If you dont mind driving a Manual Dodge has a pretty good truck too (just stay away from the automatics)
It is a buyer's market and there is always another better deal. You just need to go find it.
Stay away from the 6.0 buy a good clean stock truck. If you like all the goodies add them yourself. Don't buy someone else's head ache.
It is a buyer's market and there is always another better deal. You just need to go find it.
Stay away from the 6.0 buy a good clean stock truck. If you like all the goodies add them yourself. Don't buy someone else's head ache.
I will give you two of them. one two push the other off a cliff.don't buy a 6,0 are trucks have been in the shop for everything. from brakes,oil leaks, tranny's and the biggest thing injectors. they are junk.
D
Dano702
Well-known member
In 2005, I jumped ship from Chevy to Ford... my dad almost disowned me. Custom ordered in February and picked it up in March.
So, it now has 37,000 miles. It has been in numerous times for oil leaks. They replaced the rear main twice before deciding it was a machining issue on the block - new engine at 25k miles. I think the turbo went out around 18k miles. Next leaks were due to sensors.
Just got back from a trip to Montana. Blew a turbo hose south of Kalispell. Now my coolant is mysteriously disappearing - it goes in Monday (engine is still under warranty).
This thing is bone stock and has seen easy duty (just bought the fifth wheel last fall - 2 trips, sold my enclosed 4 place shortly after getting the truck).
It has been a miserable piece of junk. I'm trying to decide whether to buy an extended warranty and "see what happens" or get a used Dodge or GMC. Love the Cummins and the MPG, loathe the truck's interior and auto-tranny (I do like the Ford Tranny, though!). GM is nice except for the back seat is a LOT smaller (Crew Cab).
Too bad I can't buy a new one these days - $$$ aside, the DPF's make them all losers in the MPG market - might as well buy a gasser
You can not go wrong with the Duramax . The bigest problem i have had was front wheel bearings at 70,000 miles . But i run down the freeway in Vegas at 80 with 105 gallons of fuel in the back all of the time . And in the 120 degree months i can imagine what that does to those Timken bearings.
The good news is i changed those bearings in about an hour and a half per side. With my crap tools , i was really happy. So that is 82,000 miles now , since may of 06 . Most of those miles were pulling 12 - 13 K on a 30 ' goose neck , but my truck is stock .
Still on my stock tires too , just wheel bearings.
The ford will not be coming with a cummins anytime soon. Dodge still has the contract with cummins for several more years. Dodge did drop the contract for the 1/2 cummins motors for the 1500 rams but that doesnt mean much. Ford is coming out with there own diesel motor for 2010 to replace the 6.4 so that ford is no longer under contract with international/navistar. We will see what this new motor has to offer...who knows. Sorry back on topic. The 6.0 if taken care of isn't a bad motor. Buy now an 04 6.0 should have had all the updates to fix the issues from the early motors. Look into it though to make sure. Put a set of head studs in it and drive it.
powerchoke
go with a duramax, my dad has had 4 of them 02/05/07/09 no problems, they have pulled some heavy loads! it seems like fords=john deere=polaris, a alot of people buy those pieces of junk! just my .02!
go with a duramax, my dad has had 4 of them 02/05/07/09 no problems, they have pulled some heavy loads! it seems like fords=john deere=polaris, a alot of people buy those pieces of junk! just my .02!
You sound like a little boy that uses all of his daddy's stuff.
If John deere is = to a polaris which is = to a ford. I'm glad I have a John deere and work for them, and Have a polaris, oh and drive a Bad *** Ford.
So go have your daddy buy you something or go buy your self somthing then tell us how they rate.
So go have your daddy buy you something or go buy your self somthing then tell us how they rate.
I agree with ridgelinerunner fords are pos's especially the 6.0. Injector eating, turbo killing pos's. I would drive a duramax or dodge any day.
The must fixes
I do alot of work on these trucks. They have some main key issues but once fixed there just about bullet proof. As far as trannys I havent seen any issues and we build some HI HP daily drivers. Here's a list of things that I think are a must if you own a 6.0 ford as far as the motor.
1. First get rid of the EGR valve. This is a ticking time bomb for when your going to be along the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.
2. Ford has proven that alot of fuel injector issues are due to low fuel pressure. The trucks rip at 65lbs of fuel pressure. Most trucks with 50,000 miles read down to 29lbs. We have a $25.00 fix for this problem and if you have a low fuel pressure truck its good for about 15-20HP.
3. If you pull alot weither your stock or chipped, you need head studs. The ARP's are good but if you got a chip I recomend the HC-11. They are 30,000 tensil strenght stronger then the ARP's. If your truck goes in for warenty for this issue tell them you'll bring in your own head studs if they cover the laber. Almost every dealer I've delt with is cool with this. Also if your out of warenty ask your ford dealer what they will charge to put them in. I find 1/2 the dealers will do this for .50 on the dollar due to the slow work load they have.
4. Bad turbo's are hit and miss on these trucks. We havent seen many but hear about lots of them. If you do have a chip that over fuels the truck with black smoke you will have issues with the veriable veins getting build up on them and sticking. Also some chips change how the veins operate. This will let you spool faster and gain response but will usually in a matter of time over speed the turbo and let it go boom.
With these few fixes your motor will be running for a long time but your looking at about $1500.00 best case to $3000.00 on average. I've had alot of headaches with my 6.0 till I got her built but I still wouldnt own anything else. Now she pulls a 150 HP tune, 40 foot goose neck loaded, and She runns 1300 on the pyro and is a pulling machine. I also have a cold air intake, Banks intercooler, and 4 inch exhaust. With the stock turbo and injectors and 38 inch tires she still lays down just over 425HP at the rear wheels.
I do alot of work on these trucks. They have some main key issues but once fixed there just about bullet proof. As far as trannys I havent seen any issues and we build some HI HP daily drivers. Here's a list of things that I think are a must if you own a 6.0 ford as far as the motor.
1. First get rid of the EGR valve. This is a ticking time bomb for when your going to be along the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.
2. Ford has proven that alot of fuel injector issues are due to low fuel pressure. The trucks rip at 65lbs of fuel pressure. Most trucks with 50,000 miles read down to 29lbs. We have a $25.00 fix for this problem and if you have a low fuel pressure truck its good for about 15-20HP.
3. If you pull alot weither your stock or chipped, you need head studs. The ARP's are good but if you got a chip I recomend the HC-11. They are 30,000 tensil strenght stronger then the ARP's. If your truck goes in for warenty for this issue tell them you'll bring in your own head studs if they cover the laber. Almost every dealer I've delt with is cool with this. Also if your out of warenty ask your ford dealer what they will charge to put them in. I find 1/2 the dealers will do this for .50 on the dollar due to the slow work load they have.
4. Bad turbo's are hit and miss on these trucks. We havent seen many but hear about lots of them. If you do have a chip that over fuels the truck with black smoke you will have issues with the veriable veins getting build up on them and sticking. Also some chips change how the veins operate. This will let you spool faster and gain response but will usually in a matter of time over speed the turbo and let it go boom.
With these few fixes your motor will be running for a long time but your looking at about $1500.00 best case to $3000.00 on average. I've had alot of headaches with my 6.0 till I got her built but I still wouldnt own anything else. Now she pulls a 150 HP tune, 40 foot goose neck loaded, and She runns 1300 on the pyro and is a pulling machine. I also have a cold air intake, Banks intercooler, and 4 inch exhaust. With the stock turbo and injectors and 38 inch tires she still lays down just over 425HP at the rear wheels.
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modsledr
Well-known member
please tell us more.
I will have it up on my web here in a week. But it's a new fuel pressure spring. The factory ones give out in a short amount of time. The new one we have built is a direct replacment and just takes about 30 minutes to install if that. This will raise the fuel pressure up and not loose its strength after a short time. We have them avaiable for the 7.3 ford and the 6.0 ford. Cost is $25. It also seems to help with cold weather starting, not to mention how much better the truck runs.
If you need any give me a call at 406-539-3015
Thanks
If you need any give me a call at 406-539-3015
Thanks
Their is a write up in the truck and trailer form in the swap meet about this product.
Thanks
Thanks
I bought an '05 F-350 about two years ago. It has 70,000 miles on it now, and my only issue was that my oil filter housing got a hairline crack in it and made a nice little mess under the hood. Covered by warrenty. I have no complaints with the truck as of now. I've made three trips out west with it. Gets about 16 mpg empty, only about 12-13 pulling, which I was kinda dissapointed with, but still better than what we used to get with gassers, and I love how the diesel just lugs up the mountain. I did look at an '04 before I bought my '05, and the piece of advice I got on the '04 was to look at the sticker on the passenger side valve cover. If it says '04 it should be okay. If it says '03 it's the first year 6.0, which did have many issues. Just my .02.
I did look at an '04 before I bought my '05, and the piece of advice I got on the '04 was to look at the sticker on the passenger side valve cover. If it says '04 it should be okay. If it says '03 it's the first year 6.0, which did have many issues. Just my .02.
M
Macattack
Member
Has anyone installed the fuel pressure spring mention above ^^^^? Your thoughts?
I don't know too much about the fuel system and there isn't much out there about this spring change. I think I read somewhere that a recirculation regulator opens and returns unneeded fuel to the HFCM. Whether that's psi rated or foot rated, I'm not sure.
I'm running a stocker so no extra fuel is needed, just like to avoid a loss injector.
I don't know too much about the fuel system and there isn't much out there about this spring change. I think I read somewhere that a recirculation regulator opens and returns unneeded fuel to the HFCM. Whether that's psi rated or foot rated, I'm not sure.
I'm running a stocker so no extra fuel is needed, just like to avoid a loss injector.
