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2 different fixes for the same problem.

Rebuilt my engine this last Friday and the piston clearance to the cylinder wall was only .005 thousands and that meaurement was taken at the bottom of the cylinder skirt and the piston skirt. I don't consider this an excess tolerance the pistons in these sleds are cast not forged like wiseco's and I have noticed a weight difference compared to the big block pistons. Now combine those ideas with the fact that after the sled has been ran for a while, your up around 130 degrees you shut your motor down sit for 10-20 minutes fire up and grab a handful of throttle. Heat soaked coolanat leaves the cylinders and goes directly to the coolers full of colder coolant by as much as 60 or more degree difference. You now have the bottom portion of the cylinder walls contracting around a fully expanded piston, which being heavier than some of the older model pistons, doesn't get the metal to coolant contact like the cylinder wall does therefore they don't contract as quickly. In order for these companies to get higher horsepower motors they have gone to tighter tolerances than what we're used to seeing on other motors and look at the coolant flow design compared to even the edge models. These newer sleds have thinner material in the tunnels and coolers, they have fewer coolers, and high flow water pumps. Take your cylinders off and look at where the water enters the crank case and where it is directed (bottom edge of the cylinders). I always let my sled warm up first thing in the morning before I even run it off the trailer, but I've been quilty of not letting it warm up on the hill after a break possibly 4 or 5 times a day and I truly believe the cold shot of coolant is what took out my mag side piston. I installed the gizmo, paid closer attention to my temps 130-140 throughout the day. Took several 10 minute breaks and temp would go from 135-140 all the way down to 105 within 10-15 seconds at idle.

Could have saved yourself $300 or so and watched the temps whenever you stop for a break and start up again. :face-icon-small-dis
 
Top Notch
I understand what you are probably wondering and with what I saw the gizmo is doing it's job it prevented temps below 100 degrees from entering the engine. The thermostat in the gizmo has two holes in it that will allow a certain amount of cold coolant through but this cold coolant blends with coolant from the bypass hose that is coming from the block thus preventing colder coolant from re-entering like it was before.

Marv1
Yes you are correct I could have saved 300 bucks and let the sled warm after everystop. But some of the added benefits I saw was a more consistant temp when moving from hard pack to powder and also your ecu uses cooler temp and air sensing from your air box to adjust your injection rate, and by having a motor that's running only 10 to 15 degrees warmer consistantly your ecu is going to dump more fuel to the motor hopefully eliminating any lean spots. Wether I gained a couple horsepower or lost a couple horsepower really isn't much of a concern to me, my reasoning for trying the gizmo was to get longevity from my motor when a person pays 11,000 or more for a sled they shouldn't have to ride it like a mod or spend all your time looking at a temp gauge just so you give it gas and go. I'll agree with you 100% that yes motors need to be warmed up before and during your day when riding. With polaris's design flaw, and with the gizmo added it gets old even after a short ten minute break waiting for these sleds to get back up to 110 or 115 degrees while the guys you ride with on other brands have a much shorter warm up time and are ready to go but are waiting on me to let my sled warm up. I know everybody says do this and do that, save yourself money, etc, etc, I would just like to see these sleds last past 500 miles without the problems they've had, so I can spend my money on fuel to ride and not on replacement parts.
 
Top Notch
I understand what you are probably wondering and with what I saw the gizmo is doing it's job it prevented temps below 100 degrees from entering the engine. The thermostat in the gizmo has two holes in it that will allow a certain amount of cold coolant through but this cold coolant blends with coolant from the bypass hose that is coming from the block thus preventing colder coolant from re-entering like it was before.

Marv1
Yes you are correct I could have saved 300 bucks and let the sled warm after everystop. But some of the added benefits I saw was a more consistant temp when moving from hard pack to powder and also your ecu uses cooler temp and air sensing from your air box to adjust your injection rate, and by having a motor that's running only 10 to 15 degrees warmer consistantly your ecu is going to dump more fuel to the motor hopefully eliminating any lean spots. Wether I gained a couple horsepower or lost a couple horsepower really isn't much of a concern to me, my reasoning for trying the gizmo was to get longevity from my motor when a person pays 11,000 or more for a sled they shouldn't have to ride it like a mod or spend all your time looking at a temp gauge just so you give it gas and go. I'll agree with you 100% that yes motors need to be warmed up before and during your day when riding. With polaris's design flaw, and with the gizmo added it gets old even after a short ten minute break waiting for these sleds to get back up to 110 or 115 degrees while the guys you ride with on other brands have a much shorter warm up time and are ready to go but are waiting on me to let my sled warm up. I know everybody says do this and do that, save yourself money, etc, etc, I would just like to see these sleds last past 500 miles without the problems they've had, so I can spend my money on fuel to ride and not on replacement parts.


I couldn't agree more with the bold! However, I find it almost insulting that we, as consumers, have to be the ones to spend MORE money on aftermarket parts to HOPEFULLY fix what Polaris should have been fixing. I'm still not sold that this $300 plastic kit is a better alternative. Their whole marketing point was to avoid the "cold shot"....well, people still report a 50+* swing in temperatures (160 to 110 or less), which is still a friggen COLD SHOT....it's all relative when it comes to temperatures.

I suppose time on the snow will tell for sure, but to me at this point it's more marketing to individuals who are in such a dire need for a "fix"....Polaris, get your $h!t together and eliminate the need for a FIX!!

*rant over*
 
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