Rebuilt my engine this last Friday and the piston clearance to the cylinder wall was only .005 thousands and that meaurement was taken at the bottom of the cylinder skirt and the piston skirt. I don't consider this an excess tolerance the pistons in these sleds are cast not forged like wiseco's and I have noticed a weight difference compared to the big block pistons. Now combine those ideas with the fact that after the sled has been ran for a while, your up around 130 degrees you shut your motor down sit for 10-20 minutes fire up and grab a handful of throttle. Heat soaked coolanat leaves the cylinders and goes directly to the coolers full of colder coolant by as much as 60 or more degree difference. You now have the bottom portion of the cylinder walls contracting around a fully expanded piston, which being heavier than some of the older model pistons, doesn't get the metal to coolant contact like the cylinder wall does therefore they don't contract as quickly. In order for these companies to get higher horsepower motors they have gone to tighter tolerances than what we're used to seeing on other motors and look at the coolant flow design compared to even the edge models. These newer sleds have thinner material in the tunnels and coolers, they have fewer coolers, and high flow water pumps. Take your cylinders off and look at where the water enters the crank case and where it is directed (bottom edge of the cylinders). I always let my sled warm up first thing in the morning before I even run it off the trailer, but I've been quilty of not letting it warm up on the hill after a break possibly 4 or 5 times a day and I truly believe the cold shot of coolant is what took out my mag side piston. I installed the gizmo, paid closer attention to my temps 130-140 throughout the day. Took several 10 minute breaks and temp would go from 135-140 all the way down to 105 within 10-15 seconds at idle.
Could have saved yourself $300 or so and watched the temps whenever you stop for a break and start up again.
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