If cost was issue prolly wouldnt do my build in the first place, the gf is moving in so i gotta build this toy while i can get away with it lol, i guess im just gonna try both setups myself
156 m10 vs. 162/174 m10
- Thread starter roughrider99
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Duke
Well-known member
We'll if thats the case, might as well go with the best !! Racers Edge skid is second to none for function and quality....
Best part of the Racers Edge skid, it bolts right into the factory mounting holes. No need for difficult or costly mounting.
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Duke
Well-known member
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Yuuuup
That skid looks familiar
Yuuuup
Thanks Duke.... Hey do you have a pic of the "Magnetic blocks" that you can adjust for coupling? I am curious how they work and what they look like.
You saying even if the Timbersled is keeping the nose down and not compressing under hp the M10 will still out perform it? What does it do better, just keep you up on top and not trenching?
I have Timbersled setup on there 280hp setting it seems to keep the nose down good and doesn't collapse under power but I have had it come up on some steep stuff but it felt like my track was too short and I was on the back end of it, but maybe it is just trenching too much??
Iceman what you just said is where timber and m10 differ, i got a well setup timber with custom valved exits etc on a 270 nytro, all shimmed up still wheelies in the nasty stuff, such as very steep on off throttle situations, thats where the m10 rises above, if its just geo that makes it work better... I don't know, but If its steep and deep and u got big boost, m10 works otherwise I love my timber skid for playing around
skids are not magic .You only have a few things such as approach angle. Shocks valving/pressure and ability to stay erect and the transfer piont which are all adjustable on the Timbersled and can be setup to be same as any high end skid
Yeah that is what I was wondering if there was something that was just different about the M10's that help them preform better and keep from wheeling, like you said maybe the geo.
I had always just figured with my timber that if it wasn't collapsing or transferring at all and it still wheelied that there was nothing that would help except a longer track, but maybe not??
I am basically in the same exact boat as you except with a 162. I want to get a Nypex built for next year and hoping to be 350hp maybe even more
I wonder if a M10 would be able to keep the nose down on a 162 with that much hp???
Are they though?... Have you ridden next to any M10's and compared? Why do all the guys that ride the big stuff and have seen most all skids in action swear by the M10's?
X2 on what duke said, I like timbersled had it working good but I have to see one work well with the big hp and torque of a turbo yammy, m10 is the way to go, I had mine shimmed and limiters sucked up, climbed decent but sucked for everything, m10 rides good and climbs good
Yup
I've seen the same results. I've tried and been around lots of skids and replacement parts from Holtz, Mountain Addiction, Racers Edge and the likes. I rode Chris Browns setup with the Timbersled that works awesome for sure and for his style is probably better because he wants ski lift, but honestly my M-10 keeps my sled running flat.
6 inches ski lift is a close ballpark for climbing and transfer on the hill. In the deep stuff when I punch the throttle it still stands on it's tail with a 162 X 16 X 2 1/2 but it is in control and predictable which is a very nice quality. I will be replacing this track soon with a front cooler mod and a 3" track. I run 15 - 16 lbs boost... whatever the actual HP works out to be... anyway it is getting up close to the 300 ballpark and it works very well with the 2 1/2 lug.
I am a small guy and have considered the 174" trend. I don't believe I need that much track for my weight. I can see the benefit for larger riders. I like to be able to handle my sled in the trees so I think it would sacrifice handling. I can't honestly say how a shorter track will work on a high power sled. I rode 136's when they were the big track, I rode 144's after that and then 151 and so on. I have grown accustomed to the longer ride and I believe if you are spending the $$$ and time just get a 162 or 174 and be done with it. If you boondock, other suspensions may suffice, however if you are a chute or hill climber then get an M-10 and you will never look back!!!
I've seen the same results. I've tried and been around lots of skids and replacement parts from Holtz, Mountain Addiction, Racers Edge and the likes. I rode Chris Browns setup with the Timbersled that works awesome for sure and for his style is probably better because he wants ski lift, but honestly my M-10 keeps my sled running flat.
6 inches ski lift is a close ballpark for climbing and transfer on the hill. In the deep stuff when I punch the throttle it still stands on it's tail with a 162 X 16 X 2 1/2 but it is in control and predictable which is a very nice quality. I will be replacing this track soon with a front cooler mod and a 3" track. I run 15 - 16 lbs boost... whatever the actual HP works out to be... anyway it is getting up close to the 300 ballpark and it works very well with the 2 1/2 lug.
I am a small guy and have considered the 174" trend. I don't believe I need that much track for my weight. I can see the benefit for larger riders. I like to be able to handle my sled in the trees so I think it would sacrifice handling. I can't honestly say how a shorter track will work on a high power sled. I rode 136's when they were the big track, I rode 144's after that and then 151 and so on. I have grown accustomed to the longer ride and I believe if you are spending the $$$ and time just get a 162 or 174 and be done with it. If you boondock, other suspensions may suffice, however if you are a chute or hill climber then get an M-10 and you will never look back!!!
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BigFish BC
Well-known member
if you think so bring it up & give it a whirl
i have owned the timber m-10 & now baker i will keep the baker skid.like i said the timber is a good all around skid but not as good as the baker when its steep & the snow gets deep
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if you think so bring it up & give it a whirl
Timbersled skid suck in stock form,. Replace the rear shock with E Vols and add two shims. Once you understand the physics on what the skids movements actually do you will learn they are not magic, If the baker is working better its because of the set transfer point,Valving and transfer setup. As long as a skid allows all these to be adjustable you can mimic any setup.
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pylon
Well-known member
what about this ? looks cool ! http://www.carbonsled.com/Mono_rear_susp.htm
ive spoke to a few guys running this and the love it . never rode one though , has any body else seen one ?
ive spoke to a few guys running this and the love it . never rode one though , has any body else seen one ?
They have had that skid out for awhile now, never had heard any ride reports on it.
Well Burandt rides one and it holds up to all the power of his Boondocker turbo so I am getting one
I wish there was more out about that skid I haven't heard anything about it, good or bad. I wonder why? Price?
What does a M10 or Baker skid weigh roughly?
I wish there was more out about that skid I haven't heard anything about it, good or bad. I wonder why? Price?
What does a M10 or Baker skid weigh roughly?
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BigFish BC
Well-known member
Well Burandt rides one and it holds up to all the power of his Boondocker turbo so I am getting one
I wish there was more out about that skid I haven't heard anything about it, good or bad. I wonder why? Price?
What does a M10 or Baker skid weigh roughly?
m-10s are heavy around 50-60lbs the full baker skid about 40lbs a cr m-10 about 45lbs.i have heard the carbon skid works but have never seen one in action.
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