'13 M1100T - No cup holders for the Vaseline

[Jonce]

I picked up a carry over '13 M1100T 162" Limited a few weeks ago. I have a little buyers remorse after reading all the belt and chaincase threads, not to mention seeing the video of the stock motor mount (which reminds me of the old hot dog down the hallway line).

Here's the sled:

Normally when I buy a new sled, I do the necessities the first year and start looking at performance upgrades the next year. My list includes the following items but I am a little apprehensive on buying anything yet:

• Skid plate
• Arctic Cat vented side panels and hood
• Battery maintainer
• Ice scratchers
• Mods ski's
• Belt
• Belt guard
• Shock covers from Skinz
• Clutch Alignment tool
• EVO Rollover valve/tether
• EVO Intercooler fan
• EVO BRV kit

I worry that this sled is going to eat belts more than Oprah eats ice cream during PMS weeks. There's nothing like driving 1,000 miles West only to have your sled give you headaches. I have been looking at the TCL delete kits, engine stoppers, jackshaft snubbers, etc. I really don't want to spend a lot of money on accessories this year. I was hoping that I could have a turn key sled with boost, but it doesn't seem to be the case without dumping $3k into the sled. The sad part is that it would still be at the factory hp rating.



Some of my buddies think I should just run the sled and see what happens. I have always been under the mindset of making it rock solid before the ski's hit the snow for the first time. However, I tend to over build everything.


Anyone else have the same dilemma when they bought their sled? If so, what did you do for first year mod's or accessories? Maybe I will stay home this winter and cancel my trips out West until I can get everything for the sled.

 

[Turbo11T]

The thing you may want to do is just measure your clutch alignment. See where it is at. Remember not all 1100T's are belt blowers.

But if you want to do the EVO stage 3 kit I would do it. It is a little more money but will give the engine rock solid mounting with a super strong jackshaft.

 

[high time]

Good grief!

You got a great sled. I wish I could have it. I have a '12 and yes, it needed some updates, but it never let me down. Always rapping the thumb flipper and after 1,500 miles no blown belts. I only wish I could get $9,000 for it so I could get your sled. With this level power, I could use the 2.6'' track and the other changes, narrow stance and virt. steering.

Owen

 

[0neoldfart]

Check your alignment, paralellism, etc.

Not all were belt blowers. My 13 had a Big Chute turbo on it from day one, and venting - lots of venting. I never blew a belt, but did do driveline enhancements over the season to make the sled bulletproof. At the bare minimum I would add the EVO / turbie motor mounts to take the stress off of the heat exchanger - if you decide to add hp later (and you will) - you're already started in the right direction. Mine is overbuilt for this season, but I'm hoping to make 1000 miles out of a belt, which I think is attainable with this sled, something I've not managed on any other machine over the years... enjoy the new ride.

 

[shaw419]

IMO the 1100t isnt as bad on belts like the 800's. The big problem is in the chaincase. If you can't afford to go to a c3 beltdrive you could just go with the manual chain tensioner and perhaps do the osp jackshaft snubber and stiffer motor mounts. I grenaded my chaincase last season but am on my original belt. I have since put in beltdrive, osp snubber and stiffer engine mounts and lots of venting.

 

[diggerdown]

I gotta say that buying without checking into the reliability of a sled is rather a foolish move. I don't think buying that sled was foolish, just the part of not knowing anything about it before you put your money down. I'd take it off your hands at a used sled price for you!
I think you're just bragging and showing it off.

 

[Jonce]

The thing you may want to do is just measure your clutch alignment. See where it is at.

Thanks, I will do that before first snow fall.

At the bare minimum I would add the EVO / turbie motor mounts to take the stress off of the heat exchanger - if you decide to add hp later (and you will) - you're already started in the right direction.

I will be adding this to my list, good call.

If you can't afford to go to a c3 beltdrive you could just go with the manual chain tensioner and perhaps do the osp jackshaft snubber and stiffer motor mounts. I grenaded my chaincase last season but am on my original belt. I have since put in beltdrive, osp snubber and stiffer engine mounts and lots of venting.

I have the C3 belt drive on my wish list but it won't happen this year. I've looked into the manual tensioner as well but still undecided on it. I got the impression that folks were doing the shotgun approach on trying to fix the common issues with the proclimbs. I'm sure this year will give us better feedback on what's working and what isn't. I just don't want to do things twice, would like to minimize tearing the sled apart.

You got a great sled. I wish I could have it. I have a '12 and yes, it needed some updates, but it never let me down. Always rapping the thumb flipper and after 1,500 miles no blown belts. I only wish I could get $9,000 for it so I could get your sled. With this level power, I could use the 2.6'' track and the other changes, narrow stance and virt. steering.
Owen

I was looking at the '12 carry overs but for '13 Limited seem to be the best setup for what I wanted. 1,500 miles on the same belt is pretty damn good.

 

[Jonce]

I gotta say that buying without checking into the reliability of a sled is rather a foolish move. I don't think buying that sled was foolish, just the part of not knowing anything about it before you put your money down. I'd take it off your hands at a used sled price for you!
I think you're just bragging and showing it off.

90% of the crap I do is foolish in other peoples eyes, not surprised to see this comment but thanks for the insightful reply.

 

[markoo]

Only thing you really need is wider skiis. Stock ones suck in deep powder. I went with slydogs and loved them. When you break a 1100 in your not suppose to pin it for the first 500 miles so you wont have any problems with belts for now. Ride it first before you spend thousands of dollars on stuff you might not need. If it does start to blow belts bring it in for warranty. Ac should at least update clutches.

 

[diggerdown]

Just giving you some crap! Getting the 13 instead of a left over 12 was the right move. Love the sled.

 

[live2beel]

Just ride it, and dont login to Snowest for the rest of the season and enjoy it.

 

[snow7]

I have a 12 1100T and rodeit mostly stock the first season. Got 1200 miles on my first belt. No chain case issues until a rock snuck up on me. Last year was the 215 flash and manual chain tensioner and still no problems. This year is a big chute and c-3. So stock it was good reliability. Only thing is change the skis

 

[Matte Murder]

I have huge money into my 13 and I know you can avoid some of the expense I have put into mine. At stock power levels and depending on how hard you ride you might get away with no aftermarket stuff. You should be getting a 14 secondary for free from AC too. If you want to do some upgrades here is where I would start. I would do the stage 3 EVO TCL delete kit $1300 and it solves a whole host of issues in one purchase. I would also put a manual tensioner and the EVO chain and gears. If you get good reliability I would do the EVO reflash to 215HP. You will know need a clutch kit, use whatever EVO recommends for your elevation and riding style Leave it at that and see how you like it. The next step is the Big Chute setup with 250HP and your driveline should be able to handle that HP very well.

 

[madmax]

Get the updated clutch and just ride it. If it aint broke dont fix it. There are a lot more sleds out there that didnt have belt issues than those that did.

 

[Sage Crusher]

Get the updated clutch and just ride it. If it aint broke dont fix it. There are a lot more sleds that there that didnt have belt issues than those that did.

Agreed- could not have said it better-

The more enhancement the further out of the spectrum you go....
I don't have a belt blower on my 2013 LTD black running the needed evo goodies BUT!! with the stock turbo.... 1,100 miles
\the engine mounts have my attention thought for a piece of mind-- if she is not causing issues- don't cause any either..

S/C

 

[clutch]

About the cup holder thing. There are better alternatives than Vaseline......

 

[Jonce]

About the cup holder thing. There are better alternatives than Vaseline......

HA HA - one of the best replies I've read! Nicely done.



I think I will go with my initial list and maybe the motor mounts, then let it buck the first year. Just another paralysis by analysis scenario.

 

[Bendy]

You don't need a cup holder...

About the cup holder thing. There are better alternatives than Vaseline......

they give it to you dry!

 

[Ryan-41]

Only thing you really need is wider skiis. Stock ones suck in deep powder. I went with slydogs and loved them. When you break a 1100 in your not suppose to pin it for the first 500 miles so you wont have any problems with belts for now. Ride it first before you spend thousands of dollars on stuff you might not need. If it does start to blow belts bring it in for warranty. Ac should at least update clutches.

Haha where the heck did you get those break in specs. He won't be able to pin it all Season then!! So yea you won't have to worry about belts cause when you come out west, you can only ride to 3/4 throttle!!

 

[backcountryislife]

Buyers remorse because of some of the smack talk you see online... ALWAYS remember that the ones that are unhappy tell way more people than the ones that are satisfied man... rule of nature!