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09 M 1000 blowing belts any Ideas?????
- Thread starter 509A
- Start date
I have an o9 m1000 sp le. Have about 200 miles on it. Everything looks good so far. Still the belt that came on it. Had to tow out a buddys sled first ride out with only 4 miles on it. Not too good for breaking in a new motor and belt. But its still looking good
Your pretty lucky! I don't think my belt would have made the full four miles towing another sled.
belts
three rides two belts, 046. clutches are in line. pulled primary to do some clutching and noticed a finger sized hole pointing right at the clutch at the sway bar mount. some we looked at were siliconed others werent.
three rides two belts, 046. clutches are in line. pulled primary to do some clutching and noticed a finger sized hole pointing right at the clutch at the sway bar mount. some we looked at were siliconed others werent.
no one ever answered the questions. If we are always pulling threads on the outside of the belt (not the engine side), which way should the secondary clutch move!?
or is this the problem of the engine moving too much? Mine sure shakes all over the place when it idles, especially the mag side compared to the PTO side. Are they moving too much?
or is this the problem of the engine moving too much? Mine sure shakes all over the place when it idles, especially the mag side compared to the PTO side. Are they moving too much?
help..
not a problem for 1600mi on 08 m1000 w/ p.claw 153
then wham, started blowing belts every 45mi. 060 belt lasts longer but doesnt pull 7300 like the 046 belt. The 046 pulls an extra 350 rpm, but the outside cord comes loose w/ in 30miles. Stock secondary w/ shift assist.
ride 10k+ only and runnig recommended 75g x 3 primary=stock primary spring-ti
at the cost of 2+ belts per weekend, if i dont fix it. It is too expensive to ride. vs my m8
Speedwerx thinks 75g weights are too light for mtn riding in the heavy deep snow. they are recommending adding 3-6grams per weight and still running the stock spring.....
clutches are fargin dirty but appear to be in fine working shape, the motor mounts look normal.
not a problem for 1600mi on 08 m1000 w/ p.claw 153
then wham, started blowing belts every 45mi. 060 belt lasts longer but doesnt pull 7300 like the 046 belt. The 046 pulls an extra 350 rpm, but the outside cord comes loose w/ in 30miles. Stock secondary w/ shift assist.
ride 10k+ only and runnig recommended 75g x 3 primary=stock primary spring-ti
at the cost of 2+ belts per weekend, if i dont fix it. It is too expensive to ride. vs my m8
Speedwerx thinks 75g weights are too light for mtn riding in the heavy deep snow. they are recommending adding 3-6grams per weight and still running the stock spring.....
clutches are fargin dirty but appear to be in fine working shape, the motor mounts look normal.
P
product tester
Well-known member
the only thing that has helped my belts is putting a tourqe stop on the front mag side just like the m7 had !!!!!!!
Shain can you post pics and more info on the above post.
Pic please!!!
I added two flo-rites in front of the primary and cut holes in the clutch guard to pull heat out as the cool air rides over the guard. Also, shim the heck out of the secondary until the sled just moves as it idles, and your belt problem will be gone.....shimming is the biggest help. I've got over 1000 miles on my belt and running good so far.
P
product tester
Well-known member
sorry no pics just look at an m7
Pulling Cords on the outside
If properly aligned its probably not from the lack of secondary shimming. the outside of the primary is what engages, If its engaging to fast or not hard enough it will try to pull the belt apart or create slippage and try twisting the cords out. Also if the secondary is sprung to tight its going to pull the belt apart, to loose its going to slip. First vent it then I'd try a adjustable helix with a shift bearing. After that talk to a pro.
Does anyone know the proper distance from center to center on the clutches.
If properly aligned its probably not from the lack of secondary shimming. the outside of the primary is what engages, If its engaging to fast or not hard enough it will try to pull the belt apart or create slippage and try twisting the cords out. Also if the secondary is sprung to tight its going to pull the belt apart, to loose its going to slip. First vent it then I'd try a adjustable helix with a shift bearing. After that talk to a pro.
Does anyone know the proper distance from center to center on the clutches.
P
product tester
Well-known member
center is 11.5
I think the broken side cord on the outside is a deflection problem. Since I have become religous about deflection, I have not broke a chord all season.
Product Tester has the best idea of them all. I should have done that first.
Product Tester has the best idea of them all. I should have done that first.
