09 M 1000 blowing belts any Ideas?????

[RockyMtn.Kris]

okay guys and gals?

Prelim results on venting: I rode yesterday hard for about 50 miles. checked clutches every once in a while for heat and belt wear. Remember i have only been getting about 40 miles on a belt before this. The clutches are still getting hot but not any wear near what they were. belt seems to be fine no signs of threads or rubber coming off like the other belts. I am still concerned with the heat in the clutches. I know that they should get wharm. I know that I am getting clutch heat but I don't think that is the only reason. while putting my vents on I noticed several things. anti-freez resavor and cap melted, oil resavor and cap melted, all the hood insulation burnt until crispy, plastic shroud where knees rest if you were sitting are wharpping and starting to melt. so my question is how much clutch heat am I really getting and how much of the heat is excessive motor temp. SO my questions is why is the 09 1000 running so hot?

Here is what I did for venting: 2.5 inch flo-rite in shock tower,2.5 inch flo-rite in plastic right above foot well. I drilled 130 wholes in belt cover from one end to the other. drilled all the wholes in the alum. between clutch and foot well bigger and added more wholes. 2 cool side vents on both sides. I also cut the vents open bigger right where your knees are if you were sitting on the sled.

so I have looked at all re gearing post. what gears should I think about putting in.

Now I am by far a clutching guy, (I mean I know nothing about it) I know how to change weights and springs but don't really know what springs does what and what helix does what. so any help on clutching would be great. any ideas will be very help ful.

thank you guys for your help.

I know that this subject has been a beaten horse but I need help and really don't like what my dealer has to say!

The melting stuff is not from clutch heat. Sounds like excessive pipe heat, probably not timing related, but could be raw fuel in the pipe that caught fire. Did it run well? Any trouble codes?


As far as clutching, the basic thing to understand is that the helix/spring needs to put enough pressure on the belt to keep it from slipping. The primary is rpm sensitive where the secondary is load sensitive. Clutch heat
is belt slippage. You should be able to touch and hold the clutch faces with a mechanix glove right after a climb.

I am having the best luck with straight angle helix on the DD secondary. Get all the basics done first. alignment , offset, deflection, venting,gearing and then work on the stock clutching.

 

[runhard]

The " Guage Cage " works awsome for venting !

AFTERMARKETPRODUCTS.COM we have this new product for 08 and 09 M sleds that allows the heat out of your hood at the highest point and also allows you to read your guage while standing up. I sent one to Chris Burandt and he put it on his pump gas turbo and no belt heat. Awsome product period.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

My friend was blowing a belt or two every ride tried the 60 went to the 46 helped a little I only blew belts when I was hard on them, I rode his sled with new belt all day never had a problem, he blew mine that was broke in with about 25 miles on it, 20 miles later blew my other new belt and had to use the spare off his to get it back to the truck. when i got home I ran it off the trailer and it had started shredding that belt to, put new belt on and never had another problem. Sometimes its just the rider

 

[harf69]

belt fallin down the sec?

I got a M1000 last summer and this is the 3rd time Ive ridden it and I just ate a belt the belt was used I put a rkt head rkt clutch kit and I was out riddin yesterday and I had the belt drop down the sec?And It wouldnt disenguage it was stuck in gear and there was about 2 inches of belt deflection.Has anyone had that happen Ive always set my alignment and never shredded a belt even on my BB M7?Im open to Ideas its got me here is the specs
07 M1000 stock fuel mapping no reflash
rkt head 14-1
RKT CLUTCH 42/36
stock ti spring in primary with 83g weights are they too heavy?
ride 3-6k
speedwerx combo
162 track
bdx air box
any info would be great as Im trying to take the wife camping new years eve thanks

 

[Coxy]

Harf... broken primary spring perhaps? Allowing the weights to swing at idle, but making deflection look good at rest...? Just a thought anyway, PS, my 09 M8 is a belt eater, and its got less power then you boys, so dont feel so bad.

 

[harf69]

I checked the weights 2 are a little sticky brand new 3 post 4 post broke 1st ride after I bought the sled last year used and the spring is good I wonder if it just ate the belt and dropped it down the sec and kept it enguaged?

 

[harf69]

ttt

 

[509A]

thanks guys for the info. as far as un used fuel in pipe would it make a difference if I was using 92 octance?

 

[runhard]

Correct Fuel In STOCK M Sleds !!!!!!!

All these sleds are engineered and the map in the ECU is for 87 octane ONLY !
They do not run very well at all on 92 octane premium.

 

[509A]

ttt

 

[509A]

so thinking about putting a trosion arm to reduce motor movment. what does everyone think about this.

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

I might look into something along those lines. Ive done all I can doand still not satisfied with belt life.

 

[1080paul]

My belts always pull cords on only one side...The side facing the body side panel.

I have an alignment bar but obviously that is incorrect. So which way do I need to shim my secondary?

 

[never satisfied]

My belts always pull cords on only one side...The side facing the body side panel.

I have an alignment bar but obviously that is incorrect. So which way do I need to shim my secondary?

x2 same question.

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

My belts always pull cords on only one side...The side facing the body side panel.
I have an alignment bar but obviously that is incorrect. So which way do I need to shim my secondary?

Mine too, but I dont see how we are going to fix this by shimming the secondary.?????

 

[1080paul]

Mine too, but I dont see how we are going to fix this by shimming the secondary.?????

Well...don't you get the correct alignment by either adding or removing shims from behind the clutch?

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

Offset yes, but I think they come out of alignment under a load. I dont think we wil ever see the kind of belt life we would with a floating secondary.

 

[1080paul]

Does anyone make solid motor mounts? OR....we could guess where the motor is torquing too then start out misaligned. Probably only go though ten belts trying to figure that out? LOL!

 

[1Mike900]

Heres what I think is going on, I may be way out of line here? I don't think it is the belt, Clutches etc.. I think it is in the track! Look at the older sleds and they are clipped on every segment, The new ones are not and build much resistance in turning especially when heat is involved. The heat may be generated with tighter track adjustments like when they are new, Or set-up improperly side to side or way to damn tight. I would jack it up in the back and see how well it spins in the air at idle. The turbo 660 will not spin the track at idle unless I artificially lube the track by way of grease on the rubber segments, Even though I have loosened the track, It still drags on the radius of the bend before the front idler wheels. My 900 rotates way easier and needs no lubrication whatsoever and spins nicely at idle even with the track tighter than the 660. I would think with a heavier machine like the 1000 when on the snow would compond this problem even further at the leading edge as it runs parrallel straight off the drivers and doesn't have a smooth radius that angles up and away. I would loosen the track or clip it every one as there is less lubrication in this area and creates excessive heat. The clutches are taking the brunt of this especially with more torque being applied to the belt to overcome the resistance. Heck, It is just an idea anyway!

Mike

 

[m8magicandmystery]

I have 2 rides on 09 m1000 total of 120 miles and I have already toasted 2 belts does any body have any ideas why this is happening and maybe how to prevent it. by the way on the last belt I was pounding trail when it blew and when I went to change it the clutches were to hot to even touch. so is venting what i need to look at. my dealer says that it is to much snow on clutches from stock vents. I really don't thinks so. Ideas would be great. thanks in advance.

DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION — Drive belt deflection
is very important to the snowmobile. Even if it is
checked and is correct when the snowmobile is set up,
it does change (more so during the break-in period).
This is because the rubber engine mounts and the rubber
snubber on the torque link will all take a “set” during
the first 100 miles, which allows the distance
between the drive clutch and driven pulley to shorten.
When this happens, the snowmobile will appear to
have a too long drive belt. To add to this, the drive belt
itself wears and stretches somewhat. This all leads to a
low-end performance problem and, if not corrected,
causes premature drive belt wear.
After the break-in period, drive belt deflection should
be checked according to the instructions given in this
manual.
DRIVE BELT BREAK-IN — It is critical for maximum
drive belt life to allow the belt to break in before
subjecting it to hard use such as wide-open-throttle
operation or hill climbing.
The first 20 miles on the drive belt should be at 1/2
throttle or lower. This will allow the belt to gain its
optimum flexibility and will extend belt life. Do not
exceed 50 MPH during the first 20 miles.
If this procedure isn’t followed, it is possible to destroy
a new drive belt in less than 50 miles. This should be
explained to customers at the time of drive belt sales.
To increase the life of a drive belt, it is very important
that the belt be warmed up before subjecting it to any
type of use. In cold temperature (0° or below), the
engine should be allowed to idle for a period of 8 to 10
minutes. This will allow heat from the engine compartment
to soften the drive belt. Not only will this procedure
increase belt life but will also help prevent engine
damage from cold seizure.
Each operator should be instructed to drive the snowmobile
for several minutes at a low throttle setting to
warm the belt up before using wide-open-throttle. This
practice should be followed on all models for maximum
belt life.