07-11 M Steering Post / Bulkhead Crack

[akmodshop]

I have made a fix for this problem, if you don't have this problem yet, you will if you ride hard.

This is custom designed set of plates that reinforces the bulkhead where the steering post pushes down on it creating a long crack behind the motor. I have done several of this kits on sleds and have not had any problems. They are made from 1/8" steel plate, CNC water jet cut, have steering stops welded on, then sand blasted, and painted.

The Kits sell for $85 and fit in the $5 flat rate box, if your in AK, near Anchorage, I install them for $75 plus the kit. Total $160.

Call or Text Jason @ 907-242-9612

 

[backcountryislife]

nice job, I can see this becoming one of the "must do" mods for the harder riders on the M series.

What does it weigh?

Do you include the rivets?

So we don't re-install the brass piece, just mount to the plate? Assuming this is correct, does it match the profile of the brass piece, IE: is there any change in post interaction up at the bushing?

 

[akmodshop]

Correct, the zinc coated stock piece with the steering stops, comes out and the top plate drop rite in to the 2 or 3 stock holes. Then there is bottom plate that sandwiches the top of the tunnel. Yes, rivets are included, but you can use 1/4" bolts instead, if you don't have the means to pop a 1/4" steel rivet with a steel mandrill. I haven't weighed it, but it probably weighs less than 1/2"#. i can make them with all the bolts welded into the top plate.

 

[SledheadPaul]

Nice work. I have the crack but not huge yet, do you recommend welding it first?

 

[akmodshop]

no, the welds won't hold. Get the plates on asap, before the crack gets bigger. This plate goes forward from the post, over the heat exchanger part of the bulkhead, which is were all the strength is. If you add anymore thickness to it, the nut on the bottom of the steering post, won't get into the lock portion of the threads. That why I weld the steering stops to the plates, so you don't have to use the stock little plate.

 

[Frostbite]

I like the idea of having the bolts tack welded in place so you just drop the plate in place and install the nuts from the bottom side. That way you can do it on your own and not have to mess around trying to hang onto two wrenches.

Great idea!

 

[backcountryislife]

When I added 3/16 to mine, I had to change nuts & it has come loose twice (I use red locktite now), the ability to run the stock one is pretty cool.

SO you're saying that even with both of these plates, there's room to get the stock castle nut back on huh? SCHWEET! I've been waiting for someone to make a product that fixes this issue!

 

[SledheadPaul]

AKmod-- I will be placing an order for one very shortly. Man I love this forum!!!

 

[Dogmeat]

yeah this might be one of those groovy things that are cool

 

[akmodshop]

If I weld all the bolts to the top plate, you will have to have a couple 1/4" bolts to rest in the bottom plate, to use as a drill template for the other 4 holes that get drilled. And yes the nut barely get past flush after the plates are installed, because the the stock plate does not go back on, so actually I am only adding 1/8" thickness. I do still recommend using some red loctite when re-installing the nut, if its a big concern, I would be willing to add a new castle nut or nyloc to the kit.

 

[tsnowak]

As shown in the 1st pic, does the head have to come off to install it?

 

[akmodshop]

No, the head doesn't have to come off. I was having the cylinders ported on polished on that o8 M8 that was in the one pic. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Johnmaster]

How many seasons do you have on a set? We have fixed three of these already, this certainly is an issue on these sleds worth worrying about.

 

[akmodshop]

we did the first kits towards the end of the winter before last so almost a season and a half ago, and haven't had to address any of the sleds for this problem again. We had only done a couple that winter and then a couple more last winter, then I realized it was becoming a big issue and am now starting to share the fix. The key is defiantly to bring the load to the front vertical edge of the bulkhead and sandwich the ALU. The bottom plate does not go as far forward, due to the heat exchanger, but it goes more toward the tank instead. This is to increase the over all surface area for the load.

 

[akmodshop]

I'm going to start making more tomorrow, would like to hear from some others if they would like a bolt on installation or 1/4" steel pop rivets.

 

[White Rad]

I'm going to start making more tomorrow, would like to hear from some others if they would like a bolt on installation or 1/4" steel pop rivets.

i would take bolts. i came up with a ghetto version of this last year to sandwich the AL and it seemed to work but this is a real nice looking fix! when your out of warranty and look at the down time/cost of dealing w/ a cracked bulkhead this seems like a no brainer. now someone come on and finish the support for the top of the hoop (uuhhmmm wildchild cough cough) and we might finally have acceptable steering!

 

[akmodshop]

I can make those also, I have had 1 of my customers ask for those also. If there is enough interest in those, I'll start making them rite away.

 

[backcountryislife]

bolts.


My sleds are plated now, but next sled will be getting one of these.

 

[dfinn]

How hard is the install for these?

 

[akmodshop]

Not very hard at all. The new plates that I'm starting this week will have all the bolts mounted in the plate. I'm going to put together detailed instruction this week also and I'll post them when they are done.