06 M7 Track Stab Help?

[BB454]

I am working on a 06 M7 for a guy. He stabbed his track. I put a new one on and added the Holz front arm mod as well as a set of anti stab rollers. He stabbed it again. Last night I moved the rollers up to the bolts that hold the rail caps on. I know this is a common problem so I am looking for more info as to what to do to make sure I have it fixed.

I looked back a ways on this forum and didn't spot a post on it.

Front limiter straps is all the way out, I was thinking about shortening it to hold the front of the rails up. I also dropped the rear to a lower hole to see if that helps hold the front up.

It looks to me like the front curve of the rails is too shallow, is that where the problem is?

Also has anyone run their track with a broken cross bar? Last stab broke one.

 

[crimsonride]

I would shorten those front limiter straps for sure. I think someone makes an anti-stab kit that consists of larger caps for the fronts of the rails. I haven't heard to too many people stabbing their tracks. You might want to check his track tension. Maybe it's a little loose.

 

[diggerdown]

With the anti stab kit on I don't see anyway he could stab them again. The wheels run on the belt and unless he has a cross bar broken, there is no way the window can get to the rail tip. Most stabs are caused by the track too loose, front skid shock too tight, bad rear shock, or suspention alterations. That will narrow it down for ya!!!

 

[likkerpig]

I put BDX's anti stab kit on, it came with new rail caps. It removed the vibration in the footwells that was annoying so I tend to think it's at least helping keep the track away from the rail tips. Limiter strap is all the way out, btw.

 

[m-fire8]

i run bdx anti stab and didnt even use the rail tips 1200 miles later no problem

 

[BB454]

Stabbed track

I had his track adjusted with about 1 inch of hang when he stuck it the second time. It had the SLP kit on it that replaces the shaft that the limiter straps go on. It has rollers in the very middle and on the outside of each rail. It was orignally about 3 inches from the rail tips. I have now moved that up to the rail tips and put the regular limiter shaft back in. The kit I used did not come with different caps and with the new location of the rollers, only about 3/4 of an inch of the stock caps stick out from the rollers. This kit has rollers that are about 2 inches in diameter.

Everything appears OK in the suspension, sled only has 300 miles on it.

When I looked at it originally, the rail tips were worn through to the aluminum rails and the Hyfax from the bend forward was getting thin. That didn't seem right to me. It looks like there are 2 front suspension locations in the tunnel. This is mounted in the front one and the rear one has not been drilled. I was also thinking of moving to the rear one. Front shock is in the most vertical position.

 

[PCDOC]

I had his track adjusted with about 1 inch of hang when he stuck it the second time. It had the SLP kit on it that replaces the shaft that the limiter straps go on. It has rollers in the very middle and on the outside of each rail. It was orignally about 3 inches from the rail tips. I have now moved that up to the rail tips and put the regular limiter shaft back in. The kit I used did not come with different caps and with the new location of the rollers, only about 3/4 of an inch of the stock caps stick out from the rollers. This kit has rollers that are about 2 inches in diameter.

Everything appears OK in the suspension, sled only has 300 miles on it.

When I looked at it originally, the rail tips were worn through to the aluminum rails and the Hyfax from the bend forward was getting thin. That didn't seem right to me. It looks like there are 2 front suspension locations in the tunnel. This is mounted in the front one and the rear one has not been drilled. I was also thinking of moving to the rear one. Front shock is in the most vertical position.

That was the problem. If the wheels aren't way up front next to or in front of the rail tips they do no good. They have to stop the track from slipping through a window and how can they do that if they are mounted 3" back?

 

[Vern]

if you put the wheels up on the bolts that hold the rail tips on you should be fine. i put a shaft with 2 wheels up there and have been running it for three years now with no issues with limiters out all the way and a fairly loose track. but i also have a buddy with the same sled and susp. setup as me with no anti-stab wheels and hes never stabbed a track(knock on wood for him) so it kinda seems like a "luck of the draw" kinda thing.

 

[PowerJoe]

I saw an M8 that stabbed is track about 2 weeks ago. He said it was the second time he had done it. I am currious how people were riding when this happens. This guy said he it the bottom of a ravine and stabbed it. I think it would have to be a combination of things for it to happen. Too loose of a track, compressing the suspension just right and a lot of throttle. Like if you were to fly through the air, land on the tail wheel heavily and be WOT. Does this theory sound acurate or is it way easier to stab a track than I think. 3 of us guys with Ms have never stabbed a track in 3 years.

 

[2zeros]

Track is too loose

If your track is loose enough to sag 1 inch all by itself with no help it is way too loose. Here is an 03' service manual for a KK/MC. I would guess it would be a good start. Good Luck - 00's

 

[2zeros]

Above chart says..........

The manual in 03' says 2-2 1/4 inches for a 159 with 20lbs pulling on it. I would guess on a 162 it would be close to the same. That is the factory spec, you probably could run it looser. But I would give it a try first. Also I would measure the distance between the railtip and the driver. Anti-ratchet drivers can try to "suck" the track up between the railtip and the driver. If the clearance is tight, you might try to trim the rails back. When I stabbed mine the clearance was less than an inch. I added a Anti-Stab kit and trimmed my rails and have had no troubles since. My problems all started with drop brackets. Good Luck - 00's

 

[PCDOC]

2zeros - Your post is for an older sled without anti ratchet drivers and you had to run those tracks much tighter. Anti ratchet drivers didn't come on the 1M chassis and the king cat didn't get them until 05. My 08 M manual says 2-2.5" with 10lb of pull measured at the bumper stop. Just a little FYI.

 

[2zeros]

Thanks for the info...................

I knew my manual was a little old, but still an okay place to start. Thanks for the spec on the M series. Good Luck -00's

 

[jhallborg]

I also stabbed my track (hell of a ride), I had installed anti ratchet drives and trimmed my rail tips for clearance. Took it for a test ride and didn't make it back to house. New track and a home built anti stab wheels (at very front of rail tips) and bingo no more problems. lesson learned I guess. If putting anti stab kit on make sure it goes at very front of rail tips, you may have to drill new holes, but won't work set back at limiter strap shaft.

 

[diggerdown]

I can't remember anyone stabbing a track that did not have the anti ratchets on. Seems like they keep the track windows hooked on the driver cogs a little too long.

 

[whipsizzle]

i got an 06 m7 and the track tension should be 2-2.5 in sag with 0 downward pull.

 

[Vern]

FWIW you can buy an axle with the small wheels on it like the anti-stab kits for 40-50 bucks at hiperf.com. just figured id share that as thats cheaper than any of the "anti-stab" kits that ive seen. oh and from what ive seen cutting down the rail tips will only increase the chance of stabbing the track.

 

[2zeros]

Whipsizzle.........

You also have a track that ratchets................ I agree with Vern, I run the same thing. No problems.