Red or green loctite
- Thread starter sledtahoe
- Start date
Blue, green, red is the typical progression in strength.
Blue requires no heat to remove.
Green may require heat to remove.
Red does require heat to remove.
Blue requires no heat to remove.
Green may require heat to remove.
Red does require heat to remove.
M
M6johnny
Well-known member
Green retaining compound is the best. If you don't want it to come apart, use the green retaining loctite.
Blue is medium, red is high and green retaining is liquid concrete, and WILL need heat to remove!!
I would use blue if it were me.
Last edited:
H
hyperduc
Well-known member
There seems to be quite a few people here who either don't know, or have been given incorrect information.
Green is the weakest, it is also the only one of three that does not require disassembly to apply. From the manufactures website:
Use on metal fasteners 1/12" (2.2 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) in diameter such as pre-assembled fasteners, instrumentation crews, carburetors and electrical connectors
Removal:
In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C).
Blue is the medium strength
Use on metal fasteners 1/4' (6 mm) to 3/4' (19 mm) in diameter such as bolts on small engines, swing sets and furniture
Removal:
For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools and remove with methylene chloride. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C)
Pretty clear that green wouldn't be the strongest as it is intended for the smallest bots and normally does not require heat or chemicals to remove.
Green is the weakest, it is also the only one of three that does not require disassembly to apply. From the manufactures website:
Use on metal fasteners 1/12" (2.2 mm) to 1/2" (12.7 mm) in diameter such as pre-assembled fasteners, instrumentation crews, carburetors and electrical connectors
Removal:
In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C).
Blue is the medium strength
Use on metal fasteners 1/4' (6 mm) to 3/4' (19 mm) in diameter such as bolts on small engines, swing sets and furniture
Removal:
For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools and remove with methylene chloride. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C)
Pretty clear that green wouldn't be the strongest as it is intended for the smallest bots and normally does not require heat or chemicals to remove.
Green 620 retaining compound is really tough stuff, also has been used for a thread locking compound in the aviation field very sucessfully.
Just saying loctite Green is weak can be a confusing statement as they have several lines of product. The loctite Green 290 made for set screws and such is pretty weak as it is meant for reassembly. I use a lot of red, works great, but does require heat especially with small stuff like set screws.
John
Just saying loctite Green is weak can be a confusing statement as they have several lines of product. The loctite Green 290 made for set screws and such is pretty weak as it is meant for reassembly. I use a lot of red, works great, but does require heat especially with small stuff like set screws.
John
T
If you really dig into locktite, permatex, etc, you will find is is MUCH more complicated than red, green, and blue. There are numerous red, green, and blue compounds from both loctite and permatex. The green permatex that is readily found is NOT the same as the green loctite 620 that cat recommends for the fly weight set screws.
Exactly, there are numerous different strengths in every color. I use green 620 on my clutch set screws and it takes plenty of HEAT to get them loose. I have used red and it didn't take any heat to get out. Maybe my clutch gets hot enough when running to release the red loctite.
Interesting, I used red when putting in my stock clutching on my last ride in Feb, then this weekend I switched back over to my MDS weights and I had a heck of a time trying to get 2 of the 3 setscrews out....when I applied the propane torch and heated them up it went much easier. Loctite Red will bond like a champ with steel on steel fastening, as long as the mating surfaces are clean and ample time for a full cure is given.
I find Henkel's website to be very helpful, we use a lot of these products at work in manufacturing:
Loctite 271 Red Tech Specs
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/B25C9259A14B047E882571870000D61E/$File/271-EN.pdf
They dont really list a lot of specs on 620 being use for a thread locking application, but I did come accross several people in the aviation industry using it on fasteners with great results. I would say the 620 is certainly a step above the Red 271.
Side note on set screws:
Also for set screws on your weights, definitly look into using the set screws with the knurled tips. It is extra protection for your set screw not to back out.....plus they are very inexpensive.
John
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