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Ceramic Coating the stock exhaust pipe

Has anyone done this? ups & downs, I was just wondering if it would still work like an slp full exhaust or if it would just be a waste of money, i would put a diff. can on it to get rid of the suitcase.
 
how can making it shinny make it work like an slp exhaust? it doesnt get rid of wt or restriction,please explain!UPS its shinny DOWNS does nothing for perf or wt loss
 
I ceramic coated my stock 600 Pro x pipe inside and out and removed the stock cover.Didn't gain any power actually lost some.Also melted the hood.It doesn't hold the heat nearly as well as the stock cover.Save your money.
 
I ceramic coated my stock 600 Pro x pipe inside and out and removed the stock cover.Didn't gain any power actually lost some.Also melted the hood.It doesn't hold the heat nearly as well as the stock cover.Save your money.

Yep, thats because the shiney crap at .001 thickness does absolutlly nothing, just another gimmic.
 
from when i use to moto, there was two different types of coating, the top of the line fmf pipe had a thicker, multiple or different coat and it didnt turn gold/purple/black from the heat as much as the basic ones which had one coating or so.

i would only ceramic coat the pipe for corrosion then put the cover back on, or fiberglass header wrap it, people say it holds water and causes rust, but the ceramic will protect it a bit and the pipe also gets so hot it would evaporate the water
 
here is another question - I bought a used 800 VES motor and the SLP single pipe is not what I need. The pipe was surface rusted badly because of road salt but the welds are perfect and no dents.

I used an electrolysis system to remove the rust but the coating is now gone. I am going to sell the pipe. Should I ceramic coat the pipe or just paint it black?

As it is, I would sell the pipe painted black, perfect condition for $250. It is going to cost $130 to ceramic coat it.

Any advice? Is a SLP single for Edge chasis with new ceramic coating worth $380
 
here is another question - I bought a used 800 VES motor and the SLP single pipe is not what I need. The pipe was surface rusted badly because of road salt but the welds are perfect and no dents.

I used an electrolysis system to remove the rust but the coating is now gone. I am going to sell the pipe. Should I ceramic coat the pipe or just paint it black?

As it is, I would sell the pipe painted black, perfect condition for $250. It is going to cost $130 to ceramic coat it.

Any advice? Is a SLP single for Edge chasis with new ceramic coating worth $380

Paint it black.
 
I ceramic coated my stock pipe, mostly because all painted pipes last about year before they get rusty from salt from trailering.
 
I don't think it's the road salt, so because we're talking about it, what can be done about the rusty SLP coated pipes? Every one I've had rusts so bad after 2 seasons you want to throw it away and I polish em with Wizard or Mothers rite out of the box and continue polishing after most rides but that stuff just comes , my sleds are always in an enclosed trailer if not on the snow. Any one have better results?
 
I had my 08 D8 stock pipe ceramic coated right away. I've been perfectly happy with it. :D Got rid of that bulky heat shield, the pipe does retain heat better, and I don't have to worry about rust and corrosion. I have not experienced a heat issue causing anything to melt either. I'm not sure to what effect the heat retention has, but in theory you should experience more consistent running.
 
Yep, thats because the shiney crap at .001 thickness does absolutlly nothing, just another gimmic.
Do some research before you go spouting off. If you have a true thermal barrier ceramic coating done instead of just an aesthetic coating for something shiny and pretty it will hold heat much better then an OEM pipe.

And just an FYI, all ceramic coatings are not created equal and they don't have to be shiny. You have to admit that sledders, as a collective, are rather A.D.D. about sled parts; if its shiny it must be better :rolleyes::rolleyes: (tunnel polishing anyone???)

Now, this isn't to say that the surface of the pipe isn't going to get hot, even if you had a pipe of 3" thick steel the surface would still get hot. What I am saying is that it will hold heat better which means your pipe won't cool down as much with snow/water contact.

If you honestly thought that ceramic coating would keep a hot pipe from melting plastic that it comes into contact with, then keep believing that it is a gimmick........
 
Well that's what I was just about to rant about, there's about 100 different coatings out there.

some of the good ones?

Jet hot
Swain

And there's one that Sup told me about but I can't remember who it was.

will you throw up a link for that outfit Sup?
 
Do some research before you go spouting off. If you have a true thermal barrier ceramic coating done instead of just an aesthetic coating for something shiny and pretty it will hold heat much better then an OEM pipe.

And just an FYI, all ceramic coatings are not created equal and they don't have to be shiny. You have to admit that sledders, as a collective, are rather A.D.D. about sled parts; if its shiny it must be better :rolleyes::rolleyes: (tunnel polishing anyone???)

Now, this isn't to say that the surface of the pipe isn't going to get hot, even if you had a pipe of 3" thick steel the surface would still get hot. What I am saying is that it will hold heat better which means your pipe won't cool down as much with snow/water contact.

If you honestly thought that ceramic coating would keep a hot pipe from melting plastic that it comes into contact with, then keep believing that it is a gimmick........

Well, Ive done alot of research and have used Real coatings such as swain tech. I have had pipes custom made for a few sleds.
Its funny the pipe manufactures reccomended not to coat at all.

Theres a big difference in a 12 second dyno run with a real coating and a long pull on a lake.

I'll never coat a pipe again in my life, silencer yes, pipe and y, no.

I actually proved that swain coating a pipe on a long run make the sled harder to tune, and slower on top end.

I can't remember for sure if its jet hot. Some coating company showed a decrese in temp after coating the turbo, problem is they even showed the infered, laser temp gun pointing on a cooler part of the housing in the first place.


I've had Swain coat pistons and still have my silencers done. Its not shiney, its about .020 thick, and actually works.

I have used it on car headers also. Swain does some great work!!!!!!!!

The shiney .001 crap does nothing.
 
OK understood but what does SLP use and how do I keep it from rust pitting so damb fast and ya I used to polish my tunnel so what, I now have Artic FX wrap so I don't have to polish, sledders are a proud people
 
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