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Ceramic Coating the stock exhaust pipe

swain tech

Well, Ive done alot of research and have used Real coatings such as swain tech. I have had pipes custom made for a few sleds.
Its funny the pipe manufactures reccomended not to coat at all.

Theres a big difference in a 12 second dyno run with a real coating and a long pull on a lake.

I'll never coat a pipe again in my life, silencer yes, pipe and y, no.

I actually proved that swain coating a pipe on a long run make the sled harder to tune, and slower on top end.

I can't remember for sure if its jet hot. Some coating company showed a decrese in temp after coating the turbo, problem is they even showed the infered, laser temp gun pointing on a cooler part of the housing in the first place.


I've had Swain coat pistons and still have my silencers done. Its not shiney, its about .020 thick, and actually works.

I have used it on car headers also. Swain does some great work!!!!!!!!

The shiney .001 crap does nothing.

You are the first person i've seen talk about swain tech, I have a few question. I've studied there web site and there are some interesting claims.


You did your pistons. Is lean as much of a problem being that the combustion temps should possibly rise and also slow the heat soke of the piston. Also did it help with engine temp at all.

What benies do you get from swain teching the silencer also?

I've consider doing the pistons, head and entire exhaust system.
 
You are the first person i've seen talk about swain tech, I have a few question. I've studied there web site and there are some interesting claims.


You did your pistons. Is lean as much of a problem being that the combustion temps should possibly rise and also slow the heat soke of the piston. Also did it help with engine temp at all.

What benies do you get from swain teching the silencer also?

I've consider doing the pistons, head and entire exhaust system.



Lets start with the silencers.
I coat silencers because it does change the state of tune of the pipe, The reasins I like it is at may lower underhood temps some. The Iq chasis is famous for a hot spot down there so its a great benifit for your foot and chaincase.

Pistons
As far as temp of engine thats impossible to know just monertering h20 temps, it depends on snow conditions.

The coating on the top of piston.

Its nothing you will ever notice on the trail, maybe a dyno.
When we coated the pistons we were starting with new engines and setups so could never compare to stock.. We jetted towards the setup from the getgo.
My buddy ended up putting nitrous on his sled, it screwed up or he screwed up. Melted the electrode right off the plug, blew the ring lands out by the exhaust port, crackeked the jug. The top of the piston was intact except for dimples from fling debree. The coating did not show signs of detonation.

The stuff they put on the sides of the piston,
We had to sand down to get the proper piston to wall clearance.

To sum it up, I no longer coat the pistons.

I just put a liberty 800 in a IQ chasis, toatal rebuild of engine, no coated pistons, only the silencer

My sled with a slp single.

I rode the sled the first year with the slp single. I had it coated by swain tech along with the silencer. They claimed I could run lower jetting.
I left the same jetting in it that ran flawless.
A couple rides into the season, and allready noticing less top end, and the plug color looked safe, I detonated the ring land out.
Rebuilt engine jetted up, sled never blew up again, but never pulled top end again on a long pull.
To hot a pipe is what I came up with.
They coated the outside and inside of the y-pipe. Well a rough surface on the inside most liklly slows down the flow.

Also the hot y-pipe holds heat in against the jug and heats the the jug up faster, a hot y-pipe also heats the returning pulse back up more, expanding it, something you don't want.

The moral of my story,
Coat the silencer, and your headers on your car.

I ride in New York, 2000 foot elevation and down.

The pipe coatings are another gimmic like 8'' big wheel giving you 5 mph and super slippery sliders giving you 5 mph and the over the counter octane boosters that do nothing.

Pipe coating, I'll say it again, what looks good on a 12 second dyno run don't mean poop out in the field, it can actually hurt you in the end. Heats a good thing, to much of it becomes a bad thing.

If you want to keep your pipe from getting cold from snow getting on it, cover the vents with the slp fabric.

I'd love to somehow moniter pipe surface temps on coated and uncoated to see what really goes on in the real world.

To add the swain coating, you can not melt with a oxy act torch, you have to grind it off to weld the steel, I put my bungs in the y after it was coated, what a pain.

I hope this helped

I don't spout off as mentioned somewhere above, I only give real world expierences, of thing si've done and not dreamed up in my head.

If you ever go flatlanding route get on hardcore sledder and see some of the field testing I have done on the liberty 800.

Any more ?s I'd be happy to help if I can

Al
 
OK understood but what does SLP use and how do I keep it from rust pitting so damb fast and ya I used to polish my tunnel so what, I now have Artic FX wrap so I don't have to polish, sledders are a proud people

If they allready started rusting it will be hard to stop.

If you want shinney you'll have to get them recoated.

On my prox with slp perf eddition pipe it came coated from slp, I don't like shinney, as when the cops open the hood they see a aftermarket pipe. I took the pipe and wiped it down with prep solvant, then took a scotch pad and scuffed it up, then painted it black with heat resistant paint. No rust and the cops are happy so far.

Who does slps coating I don't know.
 
Now thats a great responce, THANK YOU I am going to try it on my sons 700 it makes a lot of sense. I won't do my new one cus it's remaining stock with an air pump welded to it
 
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