I can tell you for a fact, Polaris doesn’t understand the first thing about properly gearing a mountain sled. Never has. QD2 was great in ‘21 but it was a BNG add to match Doo for an out of date chassis.
I can also tell you for a fact, some of the posts in this thread prove a zero understanding of the type and design of turbo systems in the Doo and the Poo. They are still hung up on old school thinking with aftermarket turbo system powertrain calibration and performance.
While I haven’t geared down a stock QD2 Boost, I can definitely see opportunity where there could be improvements in performance, response, and belt life depending on the CVT calibration being used.
I'll be the first to admit gearing down vs clutching is over my head. I understand the basic physics of clutching and gearing but don't have a lot of expirence outside of fine tuning clutches to get top or engagement rpm. I messed with the gearing my pro ride and had it dialed for climbing straight up, but thats all it did. Doing a re entry on that sled was terrifying and nearly impossible. I was also very new to sledding and just wanted to climb hills, engagement was slow and steady and smooth. My axys was a rowdy sled and already clutched agressive to get rpm quicks when I bought it and really changed the style of my riding to doing wheelies everywhere in all terrain just for ****s and giggles even though my climbing ability wasn't the same as the pro ride. With the boost I want both, I want to climb out of sketchy areas but still party through the trees and do bowties as much as I can without killing myself.
I'm sure this isn't exactly right but this is my shot at what's going on.
From my very limited knowledge the benefit I see is that the p22 essentially is like starting out in high gear with the roller bearing, so the gearing down counter acts that and puts less resistance on the clutch so that can spool faster off the bottom. But potentially at the cost of shifting out too quickly and loosing a few mph of track speed on the top end? Potentially why the doo dosnt pull as hard in the top rpm along with the difference in the longer stroke. The main reason I got the boost is for that top rpm fun, so I'm not wanting to sacrifice anything at those top rpm.
To be honest I'm not sure if there's any huge difference to be gained by just clutching a 24 that I've heard of yet, maybe just weights to get that slightly harsher engagement and get the rpms up a touch faster. I've jumped on a few boost various clutch kits and wasn't blown away but they were all 23s or older so it's not a good example. Bikeman claims on their website these are very touchy machines and having the proper clutching is critical which I havnt heard a lot of evidence to back it up, but they may be referring to their tunes which are providing a bit more power.
Starting to think I should take Chadlys advice and just stop sucking and keep 8000rpm through the trees all day until polaris make a 900 lightweight turbo.