Float is to the inside after getting your off-set correct you remove shims behind the driven to add float. Here is some more detail on what I did:
http://snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1021622&postcount=318
Polaris P85 Drive Clutch
- Thread starter Ron
- Start date
Float is to the inside after getting your off-set correct you remove shims behind the driven to add float. Here is some more detail on what I did:
http://snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1021622&postcount=318
7
Thanks Ron. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into your always informative posts.
M
Great post you guys, Thanks Ron and Dan
too good of post to leave at the bottom
C
I have a need of info the clutch on my 900 broke in half and was wondering if the clutch off my 2000 800 would fit with spring and weight changes of course.any info would be helpfull.
Ron/Dan,
I just pulled my primary apart to address a side clearance issue. I have about .050 now with a just broke in 115 belt. I disassembled the clutch and find that I only have one .020 shim in it plus the step washer. Now what? Can I run with only the step washer? It would put me closer but not to the target (would like to shim to .010) I was expecting to see more shim pack than there was.
Please let me know as I was hoping to get this back together and over to the balancer ASAP.
Thanks guys
Gary
I just pulled my primary apart to address a side clearance issue. I have about .050 now with a just broke in 115 belt. I disassembled the clutch and find that I only have one .020 shim in it plus the step washer. Now what? Can I run with only the step washer? It would put me closer but not to the target (would like to shim to .010) I was expecting to see more shim pack than there was.
Please let me know as I was hoping to get this back together and over to the balancer ASAP.
Thanks guys
Gary
K
you have to add shim in order to decrease the clearance.
they are between the spider and the moveable sheave. right?
they are between the spider and the moveable sheave. right?
No, they are between the spider and the fixed shaft. Removing shims allows the spider to spin on further which ends up positioning the sliding half closer to the fixed. This is the issue, with only one .020 shim now there is no adjustment to reduce clearance as I see it. Frustrating if thats the case as I ponyed up for the tools just so I could do this figuring the dealer would want an hour labor or more so I could justify the tool cost and have them for future clutch maintenance. If there is no adjustability other than more clearance I suppose a wider belt would be an option but I was really set on running the 115's that I have. Experts?? what do I do, machine the spider? The manual makes it sound so simple, just shim to achieve the side clearance you need...........BS I say!
G
Many of the drive clutches in 2005 and early 2006 were machined wrong, they were incapable of closing the sheaves far enough to get full shift.
You may have one of those improperly machined clutches. it is going to need some material removed to get it in spec.
I know Indy Dan is most capabe of handling that machine work and a balance for you.
V
Not enough shims to remove!
Hey Ron, i also had way too much side clearance. The problem is there is only one 0.020 shim under the spider! What are my options?
Clutch is off of an 09 Dragon, checking specs as indicated in the write up.
Belt side clearance is .050 vs spec of .005-.035. I will disassemble the spider to shim to .010. With this amount of adjustment to the clutch it should be balanced again.
The clearance on weights is .017 to .021 so I will add the comet shim washers to the thrust side. One washer is resting on the thrust side of the weight. The picture also show my measurement between the buttons and tower. These are very close at .002 on two & .003 on the other. Keeping these tight maintains proper clutch alignment through shift.
On reassembly make sure that the X on the spider and the X on the cover align so that your clutch stays in balance.
Hey Ron, i also had way too much side clearance. The problem is there is only one 0.020 shim under the spider! What are my options?
Remove the larger spacer and then add shim's to get you to the correct side clearance.
The large spacer is .130" and the shim washer is .020" for a total of .150". On mine I removed both and added back a total of .104 (.050, .020, .032) or a reduction of .046" that left me .015" with a new belt. The large spacer is a fairly recent addition to the Polaris clutch, it was added in recent years.
Caution-this is likely a designed clearance by Polaris not an accident so there may be some reason for the unusually large belt side clearance??? I have no adverse effects on changing mine other than engagement was harsh until I logged about 100 miles. I believe that engine R's increased but did not run my sled before and after to get a comparison.
Nice!!
Great info. Thanks!!! Time to check clutch and belt.
Great info. Thanks!!! Time to check clutch and belt.
I don't know the logic behind the spacer. For decades there were only shim washers, no spacer.
The spacer bevels make a nice fit to the shaft and helix, maybe a little more contact surface. My clutch came from the factory with the wrong washer (kinked) and green loctite that was gunky so my spider was loose and wouldn't have held.
The shim washers fit in the recessed part of the helix but it's a good idea to tip the clutch as you tighten it to make sure they fall into that groove. You shouldn't change clutch balance that close to the center, but may change balance as the position of the helix rotates to a different location.
I don't see any downside to removing the spacer. I doubt that many folks are turning more threads on the shaft so that they can still use the spacer.
Ron,
I see that machining the seat in the spider a little deeper as being the best permanent option to maintain the spacer. Do you see any issue with this approach? I would say you could easily take .050 to .080" out and not really effect anything, there is more than enough room for that before you get down to the threads in the spider. Fixturing the spider correctly to get it turned down properly would be the biggest challenge but I have a machinist buddy that I will give it to to see what he can do.
Gary
I see that machining the seat in the spider a little deeper as being the best permanent option to maintain the spacer. Do you see any issue with this approach? I would say you could easily take .050 to .080" out and not really effect anything, there is more than enough room for that before you get down to the threads in the spider. Fixturing the spider correctly to get it turned down properly would be the biggest challenge but I have a machinist buddy that I will give it to to see what he can do.
Gary
R
ttt
F
I've been running the 911 Response adjustable clutch cover for about 2 years now and really like it. Check out http://www.hitechperformance.com/911response.asp. With this I can keep the belt to sheave clearance near 0 as the belt wears. Have not had any issues with this system abd it keeps me from having to tear my clutch all the way apart for shimming if I change weights or belts. There are other things about the cover kit that I like to.. Much more bearing cover surface area than the stock clutch cover.
L
Good post, Ron!
Question I need a clutch for my 05 900 polaris. What years P-85 do I want?
I know there are some differences. Sorry if it is already posted.
Question I need a clutch for my 05 900 polaris. What years P-85 do I want?
I know there are some differences. Sorry if it is already posted.
