I'm not following. What I found on my Team was the offset pressure on the large washer between the sheaves created by the deflection adjusting bolt. This is evident by the dimple worn on the washer and the matching gawling of the metal on the sheave surface opposite the adjusting bolt. I ended up replacing the washer after about 2500 miles because it would alter deflection simply by where it landed when the clutch came back together.
Granted, with all the offset pressure from the adjusting bolt, it does probably wear the bushing faster.
Your assesment is correct however, your first picture shows exactly what happens when that bushing wears out. If you look closely at the washer surface, you'll see how the washer has worn one side of the washer surface more than the other. Now the adjusting bolt does put alot of pressure on the washer but I've seen this happen also when the washer has looked perfect and no groove has been worn into the washer from the adjusting bolt. The other thing that causes the washer to wear more on one side is typical of a single return spring type of set-up that we see in any type of application. A single return spring cannot provide equal 360 degree pressure. A worn bushing allows the springs tension to not run true and straight and puts more pressure on one side than it does on the other. We see this type of failure in the automatic transmission world everyday in a wide range of compnents and applications. This is why spring replacement intervals should be seasonal. A better design would be a retainer that held many return springs. This would allow a more even 360 degree tension/pressure on the washer and would also allow for longer bushing life.
In reality, it doesn't really matter what or why it wears, I was simply trying to recommend that the bushing be replaced. To this date, I have not replaced one yet that didn't tighten up the play considerably. The other thing that I am currently testing is I have added a 2nd adjusting bolt to my secondary (I drilled and tapped another hole opposite of the factory adjusting bolt location.) I am curoius to see if this will help the wear that occurrs from the adjusting bolt on the washer.
IMO...What team should have done was added 3 or 4 tabs to that washer with recessed holes in the sheeve so that it can't spin on the surface of the sheeve. I've seen a couple (TSS-98's) that have actually cracked in this area.