My 07 pulled like non other with the 4 post. If you add the weights up in a 4 post clutch it comes pretty close to the same weight as the 3 MDS weights.
Do the MDS weights really work that good?
- Thread starter troyburt
- Start date
My 07 pulled like non other with the 4 post. If you add the weights up in a 4 post clutch it comes pretty close to the same weight as the 3 MDS weights.
Wrong......
My M8 runs 66g cat weights and came with 68g. With that weight the primary will close to a set distance at the same RPM. If you add Heavier weights and still pull the same RPM the primary will close to a new shorter distance.
This is what the MDS weights are doing. I went from 66g to 74.6g. Clutches are cooler so less slippage. With the secondary stock and all else the same the same RPM will open up the secondary or pull the belt apart. If the secondary is open more there has to be more track speed.
If you just decrease slippage then track speed goes up, add that with better backshift and the system becomes more efficient and you gain more.
F
I had a similar experience with my 2010 M8. Everything felt great with the MDS weights....until I lined up with other sleds. Couldn't stay with a well setup M8 with RKTek secondary. I played around with springs and weights and still couldn't make them work the way others were claiming. No matter what I did with the MDS weights, I could not gain RPM or track speed. Then I bolted buddies RKTek secondary on and found instant happiness. A little more playing around with it and found even more gains. I've since bought an RKTek secondary and am very happy.
I had my stock weights doing just as much as other friends sleds that had rkt secondary's, I gained (eventually) with the MDS they didn't.
M
cba said:
Similar experience at cpa! I have a 09 M8, no engine mod, no pipe only my custom setup and DD gear and he work very well on flatland or hill, so i try MDS weight last year on february, 2 month at testing, testing and testing, many spring, many helix, recommanded setup, but so never my sled with MDS worked more than my custom setup(my buddy have a 09 M8 LE and i put my custom setup for look difference), more rpm fluctation, more heat, and loss many length on flatland or hill.i dont say than my custom setup is god setup but i think than MDS is overated. I send back and Steve refund me really fast. Maybe it's work better than stock setup, but i think than good setup can beat it... but is more R&D... and money hahaha! I tried old ODS torsionnal setup, really great backshift, but reverse is gone same if i have reverse notch and if the spring is set softer hole... I dont know if electronic reverse work good for new RKtek setup with dual spring, i read yes and no.. but on old M7 and 07-08 M8 i think than torsional it's a great clutch mod but i like more D&D purple or AC red/white spring. So, if you buy MDS weight, COMPARE with other sled that dont mod on same time than you and have a good idea where he is situate vs your sled. Feeling on seat vs real performance is two world.
in defense of the DD
When you are trying to perfect the clutching on your 05-011 m series sled, in my opinion........... adjusting even small increases or decreases in secondary spring pressure is critical/critical/critical. Regardless of what combo you throw at your 500-1000cc motor its easy to go right past ideal range and perfect if you don'ly play with secondary spring pressure adjustement.
With the 07-011 no adjust dead end helix its almost impossible to find the perfect set on any given day. Upshift backshift belt traction is all affected by that secondary spring, if you can't adjsut it, you can' tune a snowmobile clutch effectively.
While I'm a proponent of the MDS weights and their non conforming shift profile, I did not either find they were compatible with my old setup.
I had to go back to the stock 36 helix
I had to grind weight off until I got rpm I wanted
I had to really pay attention to secondary spring pressure
I had to back off on that secondary spring pressure from stock
They upshift quick, if your secondary has been adjusted for the slow shifting cat/allll aftermarket weight profiles, then you may never realize the advantage of quick upshift weights and a following secondary.
When you are trying to perfect the clutching on your 05-011 m series sled, in my opinion........... adjusting even small increases or decreases in secondary spring pressure is critical/critical/critical. Regardless of what combo you throw at your 500-1000cc motor its easy to go right past ideal range and perfect if you don'ly play with secondary spring pressure adjustement.
With the 07-011 no adjust dead end helix its almost impossible to find the perfect set on any given day. Upshift backshift belt traction is all affected by that secondary spring, if you can't adjsut it, you can' tune a snowmobile clutch effectively.
While I'm a proponent of the MDS weights and their non conforming shift profile, I did not either find they were compatible with my old setup.
I had to go back to the stock 36 helix
I had to grind weight off until I got rpm I wanted
I had to really pay attention to secondary spring pressure
I had to back off on that secondary spring pressure from stock
They upshift quick, if your secondary has been adjusted for the slow shifting cat/allll aftermarket weight profiles, then you may never realize the advantage of quick upshift weights and a following secondary.
I think people that arent finding gains have issues that there clutching isn't showing and the MDS weights are, just my opinion but it just doesn't seem right.
BTW, I run a shift assist and one black shim or no black shims, and then went to a adjustable (m7) style and leave it all the way out no shims. I have also found you just keep loading them until track speed falls. I know lots of guys that put them in and don't see the rpm they want and drop weight but I don't look at rpm. my slp m1000 was supposed to run 76-7800 and I loaded them to get the most track speed and it pulls the most track speed at 7450-7500. If you don't try it you could be giving up track speed. When I say track speed it also means it feels better/ pulls harder. For my weight and size I think I would have been happier with a 35* helix.
BTW, I run a shift assist and one black shim or no black shims, and then went to a adjustable (m7) style and leave it all the way out no shims. I have also found you just keep loading them until track speed falls. I know lots of guys that put them in and don't see the rpm they want and drop weight but I don't look at rpm. my slp m1000 was supposed to run 76-7800 and I loaded them to get the most track speed and it pulls the most track speed at 7450-7500. If you don't try it you could be giving up track speed. When I say track speed it also means it feels better/ pulls harder. For my weight and size I think I would have been happier with a 35* helix.
F
What do you mean?
I had good clutching with ac weights that worked, also had better with MTX weights in some ways. Then I put the MDS weights in and no matter the springs, helix, weight setup it was worse than the other setup. Added motor mounts, little better than AC weights and on par with the MTX. but kept breaking the added motor mount bolts. Got sick of it and added more motor mounts and sent off my secondary for a rebuild (it was way out of tolerances with 1800 miles on it) I also recently put on a new primary clutch. Finally I saw the gains and finally beat another sled that I couldn't before and it had AC custom ground weights. Without having extra mounts and in spec clutches nothing worked. Then I loaded the MDS weights until rpm fell off along with track speed. It was a pain in the arse.
If you want good clutching it starts by keeping them lined up, (motor mounts etc...) then they both have to do there job and not bind, its easy to make clutching work, its hard to optimize it and gain track speed with backshift.
F
After all of that work, did you ever put your AC or MTX setup back in and see if they improved too?
I stated that I did, and yes to clarify. fyi, I would add motor mounts before anything
those weights are close in price to a mesh hood....and nothing keeps clutches and belts working strong ,long and reliable like cool clutches and belts..
i have dalton adj and a mesh hood and fastlane vents on the side panels and never any worries on my clutching...touch wood..
i have dalton adj and a mesh hood and fastlane vents on the side panels and never any worries on my clutching...touch wood..
Where can you get a mesh for 250
i said close...and close counts in horseshoes
B
The mesh hood is worth twice what the weights are in my opinion. But I am just a silly flatlander. 
The mesh hood is worth twice what the weights are in my opinion. But I am just a silly flatlander.
Don't insult yourself. On a clear day you can see a mountain from your location. LOL
B
Not really, unless you count my wife getting out of the shower.
So, does anyone have further updates on their experiences with the MDS weights? 
To me the MDS weights are just like other aftemarket products. You spend good money on the item and of course you want the product to work as advertised. You want to be able to physically feel the results and have no question in your mind that the product has improved your performance. From reading the posts, it sounds like alot of people may still have that lingering unanswered question in their minds.
To me the MDS weights are just like other aftemarket products. You spend good money on the item and of course you want the product to work as advertised. You want to be able to physically feel the results and have no question in your mind that the product has improved your performance. From reading the posts, it sounds like alot of people may still have that lingering unanswered question in their minds.
X2 - I ran them in one of two identical 2010 M8's. Seat of the pants they felt great but when you did side by side comparisons the MDX setup didn't perform as well as the other sled using cat weights. They were close and I didn't have any particular issues, I just wasn't seeing any performance gains. Set them up exactly as Steve said, called him a couple of times to get alternate set-ups (weren't as good as the original he recommended) and after 3 days of tuning sent them back. I did get a refund so kudos to Steve, nobody else offers this.
As with any set-up you need to test against another known sled that performs close to yours on the same day, same hill, side by side to get a true before and after picture. Butt dyno's are notoriously inaccurate.
