Got my boards in the mail yesterday...they sure look sweet...Hey F bomb is there a recommended way for installation on the new Polaris???Do not see any instructions....Thanks...I bet they will work awesome.
Better Boards: Black or Plain??
- Thread starter searafter35
- Start date
Received mine in the mail today. Thanks Rob, the black coating looks great and the construction looks like a quality product...no backyard tin snips and stove paint! I think I'll take your advice and cut out the entire front section of factory board, not much left between the openings to provide any added strength anyway. I'll post pictures when installation is complete. 
S
Yes I too recieved mine in the mail today.Black powder coated,can't wait to install them. Better yet try them out when the snow comes!!!.Thanks Rob
And that would be why I bought an air riveter.
ollie, if ya get a chance..try a air over hydraulic riviter..they really put them in tight..although they are slower...
i got mine last week, started to install them and my manual rivot gun WONT even break the rivots off, haha..so i will give the air one a shot..IF i can find one..
incase no one knew..the install instructions are on f-bombracing.com AND on the back of the package section..
enjoy, i know i will..
incase no one knew..the install instructions are on f-bombracing.com AND on the back of the package section..
enjoy, i know i will..
Thank you so much to all! We are now almost completely shipped on this first massive massive run. Some stragglers still going out but generally the masses are taken care of. If some of you don't see them in 7 days from now give me a shout and we'll double check for mistakes. (except Europe...you guys are all out... now we keep our fingers crossed that they get there!) We've had a couple double sent orders and it's very very nice that guys are helping us out and being honest! Also a few addresses didn't come through on the shopping cart but we mostly have those handled now. A bit rough around the edges organizationally but we are ironing things out rapidly. When you ship 430 units in a week a couple mishaps are going to happen.
They don't get on here but I want to thank and acknowledge my crew for their massive effort. They did more in a week than most of our competitors do in a year!
Off to Puyallup Washington now for the show...keep the photos on the installs coming!
Thanks again gang! Riding is just around the corner...then we really appreciate these BOARDS.
They don't get on here but I want to thank and acknowledge my crew for their massive effort. They did more in a week than most of our competitors do in a year!
Off to Puyallup Washington now for the show...keep the photos on the installs coming!
Thanks again gang! Riding is just around the corner...then we really appreciate these BOARDS.
T
Rob can I order a different/custom powder coated Color for an additional cost ? Or could you recommend someone to do a powder coating job on your plain Better Boards.
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Got mine in just a week or so.
Look great, quality product. Can't wait to get them on
Look great, quality product. Can't wait to get them on
Only a 4 beer install (woulda been 3 but my rivet gun broke and had to use a bakup), they look great and I'll be trying them out tomorrow!
I'll post pics of how they look on the dragon when we get back!
I'll post pics of how they look on the dragon when we get back!
Boards worked great, now I just need a set for the Assault!
S
I got around to installing my BB today. Really easy except for the steel rivets, I now have Popeye arms. All I need is snow and can't wait to try these out as the foot wells plugging up has always been a sore spot for me.Thanks again Rob for an awsome product.
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So What are most of your doing?
I see some people cut our squares and leave strips, and others cut out all full length. It seems to me the the main support is the black pipe frame on the outside edge and you really don't need to leave any segmentts in place. Other thought???? Plus on the Dragon, if you leave support strips in between each opening, you have rasied gripper edges to keep it all un-flat??
I see some people cut our squares and leave strips, and others cut out all full length. It seems to me the the main support is the black pipe frame on the outside edge and you really don't need to leave any segmentts in place. Other thought???? Plus on the Dragon, if you leave support strips in between each opening, you have rasied gripper edges to keep it all un-flat??
T
CUT THE WHOLE THING OUT MAN. It will save you alot of time and energy
Black boards on an 07 RMK...
Black boards on an 07 RMK...
Just finished installing mine also. Yes, on the raw tunnel it is way easier to cut out the entire front area. This allows the board to sit flatter and not on the factory punched grippers. I also cut out the one punched gripper towards the rear by the suspension mount, but left in the 3 factory suspension rivets.
Cut Tunnel
Installed
Cut Tunnel
Installed
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I picked mine up at the show. And installed them with a few tool's. Used Grinder air grinder recipe saw. And then broke two hand rivite gun's till i found my air riviter. But they defently look sweet and cant wait to see how they work.
P
why are you guys using hand riveters?? Especially the canadian dudes, you can go to Princess Auto and buy a pretty half decent little air riveter for $78, that's when it's not on sale!
I purchased an air riveter for $80.00 for my installation...Well worth the investment. It honestly only took a few minutes. Those rivets will wear out the handles of a hand riveter trying to put in this many.
Very nice gang! Such a sweet mod to those sleds. I'd like to see all of you cut out one big hole per that photo. On ones that guys left a cross beam the beam unless perfectly flat can flex against the board and eventually weaken the structure. Once you go past a metal's memory or flex it weakens substantially. With aluminum one bend is fine...two is not!
Also want you guys to drill out the 3 factory rear suspension rivets and drill up through the bottom so that you can put 3 rivets into the Better Boards right with the factory rear suspension bracket. That rear bracket gives it lots of rear base strength and I'm worried that on a couple that we see that strength is omitted. Probably would never be an issue but keep an eye on those rear rivets and make sure we don't get some play and flex warn into. If you need more rivets down the road just give me a shout. Once again...I don't think you'll see a catastrophic failure so it's probably a non issue...but keep you're eye on it.
Remember the structural strength of this model comes from three points. One the outer edge front where it ties into the steering hoop from the steel outer support beam. Two..the rear factory suspension bracket. And three the upper support beam on the top 2 3/4" of the outer support beam on the top of the rolled three piece factory tunnel. By design we want to take advantage of these structural locations and avoid weaker areas.
Also want you guys to drill out the 3 factory rear suspension rivets and drill up through the bottom so that you can put 3 rivets into the Better Boards right with the factory rear suspension bracket. That rear bracket gives it lots of rear base strength and I'm worried that on a couple that we see that strength is omitted. Probably would never be an issue but keep an eye on those rear rivets and make sure we don't get some play and flex warn into. If you need more rivets down the road just give me a shout. Once again...I don't think you'll see a catastrophic failure so it's probably a non issue...but keep you're eye on it.
Remember the structural strength of this model comes from three points. One the outer edge front where it ties into the steering hoop from the steel outer support beam. Two..the rear factory suspension bracket. And three the upper support beam on the top 2 3/4" of the outer support beam on the top of the rolled three piece factory tunnel. By design we want to take advantage of these structural locations and avoid weaker areas.
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